In search of Toberlone

[GreatScott]

My trip to Switzerland took me from Besancon, along the north shore of Lake Genève, around Mt Blanc, along the Rhone valley, the passes around Andermatt and into Italy to knock off the Stelvio.

Day One

Home to Dijon

The first day was always going to me the most boring bit of the Journey. The aim was to knock off the miles to get to Switzerland as soon as to make the most of my time.

It meant a start at stupid o'clock but the weather was lovely, a bit of mist which soon burnt of and the 94 miles to Dover were soon under the belt. After topping up with petrol it was through customs. I was pulled. The first of several times over the next two weeks. Having been directed to the "special" shed I was simply asked where I was off to and sent on my way. Yep that should deter the smugglers & terrorist.

Originally my mate & I planned to go to the FIM motocamp at Arbon and then onto to ogle at Moto Guzzis during a visit to the factory. Family commitments got in the way and I was left with the choice go on my own or mope about at home. Well there was only one option and here I was bombing down the A26 .

The headset I had fitted into my C2 to listen to Emily my new Zumo 660, hurt my ears and I had to remove it, deciding to rely on Emily's screen alone. This worked fine until I rolled off the ferry and found myself flying up the motorway to Dunkerque. After a slight correction to the route I was back on coure and by 4.30 I found myself in Dijon.

456 miles

Day Two

Dijon to Martingy

First job get some petrol. Emily directed me to a Le Clerc and it was 9 am by the time we got under way.

We still had a bit more motorway but at Besancon we took the N57 towards Pontarlier. Emily wanted to take me through the centre of Besancon, which was OK my me, but the town was uninspiring. The other side of Besancon the countryside started to get more interesting raising to 1046 m.

The crossing into Switzerland could easily be missed but I stopped for a stretch and to purchase a vignette. I didn't plan to hit any motorways once in Switzerland but I thought it might be wise to get one just in case. At £22.96 it won't break the bank.

Having got myself a vignette Emily wanted to take me onto the E23 towards Lausanne but the N9 looked a more interesting. In Ouchy, the southern part of Lausanne we stopped for lunch - a Lewis Hamilton pizza, which it turned out ham & mushroom. The N9 out of Lausanne followed the shore of Lake Genève.

It was a tiring ride but the view of the lake made up for it. The surprise was the amount of vineyards that lined the slopes of the lake. I was now getting glimpses of the mountains which looked dark, brooding and quite menacing but the closer we came they changed from purple shadows to become steep crags you could hardly see over.

Much to Emily's annoyance I stuck to the N9 all the way to Martingy arriving at the hotel at 3.30 pm.

Here I discovered my first cock up. Originally I had planned to get to Switzerland in three days, err not two. The hotel were not expecting me until the next day ! Doh ! Fortunately they had a room free. .


Day three

An homage to Magnum and the Tour de France: Martingy - Bourg St Maurice - Grand St Bernard - Martingy

Today was the start of the trip proper. If your bored there are plenty of pics from now on.

I'm a real Tour de France fan and when I read Magnum's route for day one of his trip I decided I really had to give it go. And if you're on Magnum's trip boy are you in for a fab day. As it turned out the hotel was where the Liquidgas team stayed on the rest day at Martingy. so it seemd quite appropriate to do this route.

I set off bang on 9 am out on the D1506 and into my first proper mountain hairpin, up over looking Martingy, finding myself having to stop after only 10 minutes for a photo. I found Switzerland has that effect. It was a lovely day but a little hazy with clouds on the mountain tops. The ride into France was lovely with views of Mt Blanc topped in snow.

From Chamonix we were onto dual carriageway, the D1506 to Megave passing close to Mt Blanc and the glacier d' Argentiere. Once past the turn off for the Mt Blanc turn tunnel. It was back onto proper roads. The D909, was narrow and with poor edges and importantly loads of hairpins, the last of which actually joined the D1212. This caught me out but fortunately there was no traffic and there was no one to see my rather doggy failure to stop !

From here we followed the D218b stopping in glorious sunshine for a coffee by the side of the road at ND de Lecombe. Don't ask me what ND stands for Mr Michelin didn't think it worth spelling out on the map, so why should you worry?

The route now took us out on the D902 and up the Comet de Roseland and into Bourg St Maurice for lunch

The route out of Bourg St Maurice and up the col de petite St Bernard and into Italy was simply fabulous.

<a href="http://s626.photobucket.com/albums/tt348/hrr1200gs/The%20Alps%202009/?action=view&current=DSC_0182.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i626.photobucket.com/albums/tt348/hrr1200gs/The%20Alps%202009/DSC_0182.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

The border with Italy looked abandoned and you could still make out all the paint on road "CAV" (Cavendish) everywhere.

The route down into to Italy so not so enjoyable, simply because there was more traffic and solid white lines deterred me from overtaking - unlike the locals who were simply crazy !

The route follows the ss26 all the way into Aosta running parallel with the autostrada and the views of the surrounding mountains were awesome.Once in Aosta we took the ss27 up to the Daddy of them all - the col du Grand St Bernard. The turn off the main drag is well sign posted and I followed two Dutch fireblades and a Dutch R1200R up the pass. Great fun and for the first time scrapped my right peg ! (though it may have been the centre stand) The route up simply got better and better. At the top I recognised the hotel and the lake from Magnum's posts. I had wanted to reproduce the shot from those reports but couldn't quite work out where they had been taken from. I guessed it required an bit of leg work - up hill and this tosser ain't cut out for off road work at that altitude !

Emily's log shows the climb up

The run down into Switzerland starts off rather steeply with a couple of tight bends but soon opens up to lovely sweeping bends.

<a href="http://s626.photobucket.com/albums/tt348/hrr1200gs/The%20Alps%202009/?action=view&current=DSC_0186.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i626.photobucket.com/albums/tt348/hrr1200gs/The%20Alps%202009/DSC_0186.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

As I set off down I passed a man on roller blades making his way up. I couldn't quite believe it. He had the head band and everything ! It was nice to get some speed up and get the air flowing through the helmet. I was overtaken though by a white GSX1300. I thought it was the police so I slowed down. That I believe is the only reason he got past me ! yeah - right !

I was back at the hotel by 5.45 pm. What a great day. Thanks Magnum.

195 miles

Day Four

Verbier and Sion

I woke to another great day. Very warm but today I planned to take it easy after 3 long days on the bike. The original plan was to travel up towards Andermatt today but my cock up meant I effectively had an extra day. On my way down from the Grand St Bernard I passed the turn off to Verbier and the view up the valley looked interesting. Verbier was also a stage finish in the Tour de France so well worth a visit and not too far from Martingy.

I set off for Verbier just after 10 am. It is a short fast run of about 16 miles. Turning off the E21 towards Verbier you enter a wide glacial valley which narrows towards its head and at a little hamlet you turn left at the roundabout and straight into the hairpins.

It is a short run up to the top and great fun. So much so I ended up doing it 3 times. I told myself it was once for the enjoyment of the view and once for the enjoyment of the ride and once for the enjoyment ride. In fact that is not strictly true. The second run I decided to video myself. I have a pentax w10 mounted on a RAM mount set up mainly for stills, but like most digital cameras is capable of taking video. On the second run I was under the delusion I had mastered the art of mountain roads. Yep you guessed it I balls it up. I stalled ! The upside meant I had to delete the clip and do the run again. So why isn't the clip on YouTube ? Now when I watch it it looks appallingly slow especially compared to runs towards the end of my trip. No riding God me yet.

Tip: Never video yourself

After all this fun and a fondue at the top. Tip: Never order fondue. Its too rich and too expensive and just too much bloody cheese.

After all this fun....I had stretched the day out to 1.30 pm. I quick look at the map and I decided to pop over to see the Grand Dam de Dixence. Not a great actress of stage & screen who limits her appearances to the odd cameo role to wide appaluse but a dam on a lake - and a bloody big one at that.

I headed back towards Martingy and Emily. determined for once to get her own way set me off down the autoroute de Rhone, the main artery that runs up the Rhone valley. Although I had planned to stay off motorways this was like no motorway I had been on. The view was stunning and I thought what the hell I paid for a vignette I might as well use it.

The Rhone valley is a long narrow glacial valley, perhaps no more than 5 miles wide. The Rhone runs down the right hand side (south) of the motorway and rich agricultural land either side, mainly it seemed, of vineyards. All this and impressive mountains. At a guess, looking a the map, I would say the most prominent feature being the Mont Gond. A shear crag of granite, without the lower slopes covered in trees like the rest. Ahead in the distance was a snow clad giant the Bietschorn perhaps?

Tip: Don't wear sunglass. The autoroute and indeed most roads at some point have tunnels. Fortunately my C2 has a drop down visor. Unfortunately I didn't have the sense to use it and was stuck with the shades as I went into the darkness.

At junction 27, the 2nd exit for Sion you head for Vex and climb steeply with more stunning views. At Vex I ignore Emily. I took the left fork heading towards a huge snow clad peak, which I had wrongly assumed was my destination so I plough on despite Emily's objections.

I was heading to the village of Evolene passing the fabulously named Sex Pey, which was worth the detour alone.

We pass some odd rock formations called the Pyramids. Initially I thought this might be the peak in the distance as it was a classic pyramid shape, but no these were a dozen or so sharp needles. I stopped to take some photos and as I rode on I passed them close by. I should of stopped to find out more but it is such a fag to keep stopping. As soon as you do the heat gets you. You have to find some where to stop. climb off, and get you kit off asap.

I stopped at Evolene for a cold drink. A little tea room on the outskirts and a well needed coke - 5 CHF !! Bloody hell and I had got water in the top box ! Doh !

I decided to head home. I had come to except Emily had been right all along and I was never going to make the dam but I had had a fab run. As I pulled in to the tea room I noticed the road back was closed due road works so I decided, despite everything to ignore Emily once again and headed through the village planning to join the man road on the other side. Can't be that difficult can it ? I got lost. Emily I had re-calculated so I decided to follow her. She took me up a very steep and narrow road, more a track.

Although tarmac-ed it was in very poor condition and soon began nothing more than a gravel track. I rather enjoyed it. A proper GS road. As the road rose the hairpins became a bit hairy. I passed half a dozen farmers making hay. They all stopped and one pointed. I am sure he must of said "Did you see that fat bloke on a motorbike ? Where's he going?"

The views were awesome as were the drop offs and I resort to plenty of use of the horn as I approached the bends. What I would of done if a vehicle came the other way I'm not quite sure.

After 3 miles it came to me this wasn't going to come out anywhere good. Perhaps ducking a ski chair was a clue. The problem now was how I'm I going to turn round? One hairpin was slightly wider than the rest and I managed a rather deft move. I impressed myself but not a sole about to see. Probably just as well as if there had been I would no doubt of dropped the bike.

Going down prove much harder than going up. Back break, back break I kept repeating to myself like a mantra to ward off bad luck. At one point I came down too fast and stamped on the break, locking the rear wheel but the GS was just brilliant and looked after me, getting me down with ease. Looking back I really enjoyed it and I am sure the off road junkies out there could have a ball making the most of roads like this - just don't do it on your own !

118 miles

 

[GreatScott]

Day Five

Martingy - Furkapass - Andermatt - Oberalppass - Sedrun

Today we head up the Rhone valley towards Andermatt following the A9 but I rather enjoyed the run up the autostrada and it only took us to Sierre before becoming the A9. From Sierre the road became single carriage and was reasonably straight There was plenty of traffic but solid white lines meant few (legal) overtaking oppurtunties.

I had planned to stop at Brig, for no particular reason other than I wanted a photo in tribute to Brig, of this parish. Brig (the town) was a bit of a dump. Perhaps that's unfair. I was simply not inspired by the place to pull over and I never got my photo (sorry mate). The road out of Brig became more interesting, that's to say mountainous. The Rhone valley was narrowing and we started to get the odd hair pin.

At Lax, a small village, north east of Brig, we stop for coffee. Lax was pleasant enough for a break but there was not alot else.

The ride now took us along the A9 and up the Furkapass. The views were simply breathtaking. We turn a bend and there ahead is the Grimselpass winding up to the left and the Furkapass ahead. The road looks quite daunting. A ladder of a road zig-zagging up the pass. It looks like someone had stacked the road on top of itself. However as you get into the pass proper the road is brilliant, wide and well made. The turns are not too tight but there is plenty of traffic to negotiate.

The pass tops out at 2431 m and although the views are stunning I don't stop as I want to get on and find a hotel. Coming down the other side however the heat starts to get to me and I pull over at a little road side cafe just before Realp. It's a cold coke and rosti for lunch, sat outside surrounded by cows with bells clanging away.

The cafe was on a bend, not quite a true hairpin, more a sweeping 180. A great place to snap a few bikes as they fly by.

As we come into Realp I am struck how much more Germanic everything has become, both the language and the architecture. The houses are 3 or 4 storey's high with steeply sloops roofs. The building are constructed of a dark wood and close together.

I came down more cautiously only to be creamed by sports bikes putting me to shame

, but I wasn't daft enough to try and catch them.

From Realp it was a lovely run into Andermatt which is picture perfect. A proper little chocolate box alpine town. I can't resist a stop. You turn off the main road, which by passes the town, on to a cobbled road that's takes you to the centre, past lovely buildings housing everything from banks, hotels and shops.

I hadn't planned to stay in Andermatt as a quick search before I came suggested the hotels were either full or too expensive, but I felt the town's vendors deserved to liberate me the price of a coffee and a few postcards. It was all so pretty I hardly felt the pain.

Andermatt nestles at the a junction with the route from the west, the way I had come, the north to Aldorf and the east, the way I planned to head. The cobbled road turns north and leads you out of the town to a small roundabout which marks the end of the town. You take the first exit and you are straight into the climb up the Oberalppass.

It is a short run up to 2044 m and starts with a nice hairpin and takes you through two tunnels. I enjoy this pass as after the initial climb there is a relatively level section, which actually takes to the actual high point of the pass. This section is fast with sweeping roads and bloody good fun. Over the next few days it became quite a good friend. The ride down the other side was equally as good and again fast taking us into Sedrum, where I found a reasonable hotel. The Kruzli.

Frankly there is nothing special about Sedrum, especially when compared to Andermatt.

The hotel was on the road and quite modern, with a secure garage round the back and importantly a bar that sold beer in proper glasses. Sod the expensive. It's hot and these little beers just don't do it. The hotel is run by a couple in their early thirties and they speak English - which helps. Although the passing traffic is a distraction as evening comes it dies down and doesn't start up too early in the morning.

Arriving at 3.45 pm I feel a walk to explore is in order. Actually I feel it's too early to get myself outside a beer so I need to fill in some time. Sedrum is a small linear village with a tourist office, a few shop, restaurants, hotels and a lovely little church. Just up the road is the Hotel Oberalp. It boasts it's a "Biker Hotel" but there were no bikes. I decide 4 o'clock isn't too early for a beer and give up my exploration.

118 miles

Day Six

Oberalppass - Sustenpass - Grindelwand and The Eiger

My original plan was to head back down the Furka to Zermatt and see the Matterhorn. However on the hotel was four hours or so from the turn off to Zermatt at Visp.My guide book told me to allow at least a day to visit Zermatt & the Matterhorn. It just seemed too far. On reflection I should of perhaps used my spare day at Martingy to pay the Matterhorn a visit rather than dick about looking for a dam. Next time perhaps.

The Eiger looked a good alternative. I had hoped to pay the grand old girl a visit anyway and it meant a run over the Sustenpass, also on my list. It took all of half a second for me to decide. The Eiger it was.

It was a beautiful day and any tiredness from an early start soon disappeared as I hit the Oberalp. Down into Andermatt and straight out on the A2. As it leaves Andermatt it winds down a steep gorge. At 9.30 the sun still hadn't penetrated and the temperature difference was noticeable. I stuck to the A2, avoiding the motorway, following it to the little village of Wassen.

I stop to for petrol and a Dutch biker pulls in. "Susten ?" he says. I smile back and he puts his thumb up. Should be good me thinks. I take the A11 signed posted to the Sustenpass.. To start the road is fairly straight, climbing up through the pine forested sides of the surrounding mountains. As we come out of the trees the road sweeps up the valley. Its a fast road, which snakes along, more 180 than true hairpins. Just before the top there is a small cafe tucked into the rock face with a fabulous view of the Sustenhorn.

I stop for a coffee and snap a few shots. The pass tops out at 2259 m and as you come down the other side there are more amazing views of the Sustenhorn and the Stein glacier and I simply have to stop again.

The run down to Innertkirchen was another great road. So far the run up & down the Sustenpass has to be the best. Perhaps not the most or the tightness of bends but nonetheless a brilliant road. At Innertkirchen the road merges with the A6 and then becomes the A8. There is nothing special about this road but you can get up some speed and you get some lovely glimpses of the Brienzer See, the lake to the east of Interlaken.

From Interlaken we take the road to Wengen and as you do you get a stunning view of the Jungfrau to the right and the Eiger to the left. The Eiger is very distinctive and I cannot quite believe I have ridden all the way to the Eiger. I am overcome with a child like excitement and find myself shouting for joy as I bomb along. I take the left fork in the road towards Grindelwand and the Eiger. The Bern-Oberalp train stops us. The battery in the camera mounted on the bike was flat so I wiped out my phone and snapped away as we waited for the train.

The Eiger - I still cannot quite believe it - is not the highest in the group at 3970 m but very imposing. It is surrounded by other giants. The Jungfrau at 4168 m, the Monch at 4099 m, the Schreckhorn at 4078 m. You strain your neck looking at them as you ride by

In Grindelwand I took the cable car to First. 50 CHF was a little steep but well worth it for the view. The trip up takes half an hour. It stops worryingly for five minutes. I'm the only occupant and the car swings about it absolute silence. There's no panic button or obvious emergency exit. Looking ahead I figure it is 10 foot or so to the ground - I'd live. I turn round and the ground seems at least 60 feet below ! Bugger me - I'm a goner !! I keep my cool and just as it stopped it started again for no apparent reason. Phew !

The views of the Eiger and the Wetterhorn and down the valley to the south east were stunning.

At the top there is a gift shop and cafe. As I soak up the view a flock a crow like birds fly pass with an unusual cry. Choughs I assume.

0287.jpg[/IMG]

For the daring there is a death slide down. I'm tempted but the queue is a mile long so I head back down.

The route back is just the reverse and I enjoy the run up and down the Sustenpass as much as I did the first down. As I came into Meiringen I came across a car up side down in a ditch. It could only of just of happened as the police arrived just before I did. The police looked baffled and I don't blame them. This was a level straight piece of road and the weather was perfect. There are numpties the world over obviously.

I stopped in Andermatt at a lovely hotel I had seen earlier and had an early evening meal. The waitress told me they had bikers stay and gave me a route sheet they produced for guests. I couldn't have a beer with my meal so I head back over the Oberalppass to my hotel.

It is difficult to think I could have a better day as this had been simply fab.

159 miles.

 

[Mr K]

 

[GreatScott]

Day Seven

Lukmainpass - St Gottards - Andermatt - Oberalppass

I wake feeling quite tired. My host suggests a visit to Disentis Munster to see a display of local minerals. Once on the road the tiredness had gone and I thought sod it let's carry on and see where we end up.

In Disentis Munster I hang a right and head up the Lukmainpass. The weather has taken a turn for the worst with low cloud and fine rain and I took it steady climbing up a nice winding road stopping at the top of the pass at 1916 m for a cup of coffee and a consult with the map. The Lukinmainpass might not be the highest or have the tightest bends but after the Susten I've learnt that does not detract from the pleasure of the ride.

The plan was to head up the St Gottard pass back into Andermatt for a proper look. I headed off down the other side of the pass towards Biasa. As I approached Biasa I took a wrong turn. It was a combination of road works, ignoring Emily, riding too fast and not reading the road signs properly. As a consequence I was forced onto the autostrada heading south, away from the St Gottards and towards Bellinzona.

Unfortunately the first exit off the motorway was miles off, near Bellinzona and then I couldn't see a way back on to return the way I had come and I ended up flying up the E43 towards the St Bernardino pass. Although I wasn't too bothered where I was going I didn't really want to do the St Bernardino - not yet at least. I planned to head over the St Bernardino on my way into Italy.

In my frustration I charged up the road and got caught by a speed camera. I wasn't going that fast but faster than the 80kph speed limit. This was the first camera I had come across and Emily hadn't picked it up. It was stone grey, discrete with only one warning sign some quarter of a mile back. Once I had turned round I picked it up and fortunately it was forward facing. I cannot image the Swiss ever breaking the speed limit and I supposed the camera had probably never fired before and it may never be checked. My fear was that if he Swiss have a version of Crimewatch I might feature. A foggy shot of a startled bloke on a bike. If there is a reward - go for it I only have myself to blame and you might find the money handy. I won't hold it against you.

Instead of sticking to the national road that runs parallel to the autostrada and the road I would eventually need to take me up the St Gottards I wanted to make time up and returned on the motorway. Fate was against me as the traffic ground to a halt. I filtered as far as I could but came to a stop where people had left their vehicles and were wandering about. I pulled up by a local on his Yamaha.

Apparently this is quite normal. The traffic jam is caused by the build up of traffic waiting to enter the St Gottards tunnel. A limited amount of traffic is, apparently allowed into the tunnel at anyone time. The tunnel was 30 km away ! At least it had stopped raining and the sun had come out. Fortunately my exit was only a few kms off and after a boring half hour the traffic began to move, enough for me to filter through to freedom before it all ground to a halt again.

The countryside smelt of wet cow. Yesterday the smell was that of sweet hay - the sweetest I had ever smelt. Today it was wet cow. Not that farm yard cow dung smell we are familiar with but a pleasant, earthy odour.

Once off the motorway I pulled into Airolo for lunch - it was gone 1.30 pm. The architecture in Airolo and indeed much south of the Lukmain was Italian. That sort of run down look, nothing a good lick of paint couldn't cure. The spaghetti al pesto though was just the job and some of the best pasta I can recall having. The coffee was also sublime and I realized I hadn't seen a Starbucks or Costa coffee since landing in Calais. Despite the frustration of the morning I sat eat pasta surrounded by glorious mountains and it occurred to me all's well in the world.

Over lunch a German couple on a GS chatted about the route ahead. They had just done the Susten and the St Gottards and had enjoyed both. I set off after lunch up the St Gottards but not the route I had hoped. I followed the modern road, which of itself is a lovely ride but I got glimpses the the old road snaking up the pass.

It looked a great road and I determined to ride it. When I reached the top of the pass I doubled back and headed down the road and what a road !

It was narrow with numerous tight turns - and cobbled.There was the odd cobble missing and lying in the road. In the wet I should image it would be quite difficult but the sun had dried out the road and I had a blast. Down at the bottom I simply turned round and flew back up whooping with joy. He he he what fun !

Towards the top I came across a stage coach and horses taking tourists down. It looked far too hairy a trip for me. Out of respect for what must be a difficult job driving a coach & horses down that road, I pulled up and turned the engine off.

I had passed a number of cyclist going up. A common enough sight on every pass but at the top was a group of race marshals. In my excitement I raised my left fist in joy as I crossed the cyclists' finish line to a round of applause from the marshals !

Whoops ! Forgive the thumb !!

I didn't stop at the top but carried on down the other side sticking to the old road. As it joined the main road a group of cyclists asked me if it was cobbled all the way to the top. I could see the disappointment on learning the bad news. They had my sympathy as I was full of admiration at all the cyclists who peddled up these passes, quite an achievement in my books. They had come so far it wasn't that much further and the feeling of satisfaction at reaching the top would be worth the effort.

I eventually make Andermatt and stop for a coffee and buy, write and post some post cards. I am still struck at what a lovely place Andermatt is. Anyone planning a visit and/or a stay are in for a treat.

Sat in the bar back in Sedrun I discovered my hotel was used by a Dutch bike tour company for self guided tours and I got chatting to a group of Dutch bikers who had turned up. It seems everywhere I've been in the world the Dutch are there. They are always pleasant friendly and helpful and speak good English. We share a meal of Crap. I kid you not. Crap - a sort of sizzler dish of veal or perhaps it was pork. A lot of theatre and good fun. We drink too much beer (is there such a thing?) and agree to meet for breakfast and ride together the following day.

137 miles - not quite the easy day I planned - but who cares ?

Day Eight

Oberalppass- St Gottards - Furkapass - Grimsel pass - Sustenpass - Oberalppass

I meet up with Nol on his R1150GS and Gerard on his 1200 Bandit as promised. It is another beautiful day and we fly up and over the Oberalp, back into Andermatt and up the St Gottards. The tour firm the Dutch used had provided Nol with a road book and he took the lead with me taking up the rear. Although I had keyed the route into Emily it was nice not to worry about where were going and I was able to concentrate on enjoying the ride. Nol's speed was just perfect, though his experienced showed as he flew down the passes leaving Gerard and me behind. Gerard was unphased. "why rush we are on holidays" Too true, too true.

We stuck to the modern road on the St Gottards and came down into Airolo, turning right past the restaurant I had stopped at for lunch. From here we headed up the Nufenen pass. I hadn't consider riding this pass. A quick look at the map back home didn't look to promising. It looked liked it lacked the hairpins of many of the other passes.

Nol told me that at 2478 m it was the highest pass in Switzerland and perhaps for that reason alone it was worth doing. However it was simply fab and I am glad I didn't miss it. Although there was perhaps not as many hairpins as others the run up the valley was great and the scenery marvelous. As you approach the top the surrounding landscape gives you an impression you are certainly high, with snow lying about and great slabs of rock . It was not the hardest but in my view the best yet.

From the top we flew down to Ulrichen. Nol and Gerard's route missed out the Furka, I persuaded them it was worth the detour, being as it is right next to the Grimsel. I told them I wanted to have a proper look at the Rhone glacier. It didn't take much persuasion and up we went stopping at Belvedere at the base of the glacier, which is in fact not quite at the top.

As we pull in we meet up with the other Dutch party from the hotel. It is 5 CHF to get up close to the glacier. It isn't far but I think because of the altitude I felt out of breath. You can walk into ice "caves" which they had to cover in sheeting because the glacier is receding. There is a photo of the glacier from 1969 showing the surrounding mountains covered by the glacier. The contrast is quite striking. The melt water drops away down the steep valley to form the Rhone and view across to the Grimsel is most impressive. It strikes me that I am stood at some important geographic feature and feel rather pleased with myself.

Walking back to the bikes Nol & Gerard called me over excitedly. There down the steep grassy slope we see half a dozen or so marmots. The marmot is a symbol you see all over the Alps and everywhere sells fully toy marmots. They are slightly smaller than a badger. Most were mousey brown, difficult to see against the rocks but there was also a dark version. Nol told me they are not rare, but it isn't common to see them as they are quite shy.

From the Furka we head up the Grimsel, which is equally magnificent. Passing over the top we stop at the Hospiz not far the top on the way down the other side. It is a remote building currently under repair at the side of the Grimsel see and a huge dam. The Hospiz is stuck on top of a rock outcrop and you reach it by crossing a cobbled bridge, or perhaps another dam.

Yet again the views areas stunning looking down the valley and up to the Bachlistock at 3247 m and the impressive glacier that flows from it.

From here we ride down to Guttannen and stop for a nice salad for lunch. After lunch we carry on to Meringen and initially miss the turn for the Susten. I assume Nol's road book has in mind somewhere I hadn't considered but he had simply missed the turning. We doubled back on ourselves and flew up the Susten , back into Andermatt and the Oberalppass and home.

146 miles

 

[GreatScott]

Day Nine

Lukmainer - San Bernardino - Spulga - Italy - Bernina

Today I planned to move on. Nol & Gerard offered to ride with me to the Italian border at the top of the Spluga pass and I was pleased with the offer and happy to tag along with them again.

My host was doubtful I would find a hotel and offered to ring a friend of his who ran a hotel near the Italian border south of St Mortiz. I agreed but was more confident than he of finding somewhere and a little nervous that hotels near St Mortiz might be too expensive. As it turned out his friend had a room free for 37CHF which seemed cheap so I accepted.

We set off about 10 after a long look at my rear tyre. I was concerned at the wear but Nol reassured me it was fine. It had rained in the night and the morning was cloudy. My Dutch friends had watched the news and were convinced it was going to rain. We headed out over the Lukmainer and passed at least a dozen black F650GS. It turned out to be the Swiss army. Not bad if you have to do National Service being given a GS and paid to ride it round the fabulous roads of Switzerland. I stopped at Lai Songa Maria to take a picture and the young squaddie came to check out my bike. Patting it saying "for Sergeants"

It was still very warm and the roads were dry and Gerard had to pull over to take off his wet weather gear.

We rode down to Bellinzona, avoiding the motorway and headed for the San Bernardino at 2055 m. The road up the San Bernardino was a lovely road, quite long and the last bit was great fun. It runs parallel to the motorway and in places very close to it and sometime it was nothing more than a track. The road follows a wide alpine valley that narrows to its head and up to the pass it become steep with huge lumps of rock rising out from the valley floor which were topped by churches or ruined monasteries which struck me as being very Italian

(This might actually be the San Bernardino. I'm not too sure, so if anyone knows, let me know please.)

From the San Bernardino we took a right up to the top of the Spulga. It is a short but sweet climb up to the Italian border. It was still quite cloudy at the top and we stop to say out good byes.

I carry on down into Italy and the Spulga this side of the border is completely different in nature. It is steep, narrow with loads of tight hairpins. Some bends I swear were greater than 180 ! The road surface is noticeably poorer and damp after a recent shower. There are plenty of tunnels, which are unlit and none are straight. You have to crawl through as it takes a moment for your eyes to adjust and you just cannot determine where or how tight the inevitable bend will be. At one point you can see both entrance and exit to the same tunnel at the same time ! I bottled this one stopping to see where I was before moving on. The Italian side of the Spulga was the only mountain pass I didn't see cyclists - I can understand why. It's a route to put hairs on the palms of your hands. Especially where you are, as I was, nervous at the state of your rear tyre.

After the initial steep section the road improved and I stopped for a late lunch of very nice pasta ragu at the first place I came across in the village of Campodolaino. I of course now had to pay in Euros and only just had enough on me.

From Campolodolaino the route took us to Chiavenna the east on the E37 back into Switzerland and a lovely little pass at Maloga. From here the road follows the north shore of two long narrow lakes as we head into St Moritz, We pass the turn for the Julier pass and I am tempted to make a detour, but it is getting on and I'm tired and want to find the hotel and get a shower. Once passed the turn I start to doubt my logic as I don't know if I will ever come this way again and I'll never know what I've missed.

St Mortiz is a disappointment. It's all very nice and clean but, well it stuck me as lacking soul. I fail to see why it is such a magnet to the rich & famous.

From St Mortiz we head out on the S29, heading to Pontresina and the very nice little pass of Bernina at 2328 m. Well perhaps not that little but a wide fast road. From here it is a short run into the little village of Le Prese and my hotel - the Albergo. It turned out to be a Biker hotel, but I was the only bike there.

180 Miles

Day Ten

In search of a replacement tyre

I wake to another day of glorious sunshine and my concern about my tyre hasn't been dispelled. In fact quite the opposite. The tread has worn much more than I had expected. I didn't consider it safe to ride all the way home let alone tackle the Stelvio, especially if it rained. I was also acutely concerned that if I was pulled it was likely I would be nicked. I resolved then to spend the day finding somewhere I could get the tyre replaced. Fortunately my phrase book had " I need to replace my Tyre" and my first point of call was reception. It did after proclaim to be a biker hotel. They directed me up the road back the way I had come to Poschiavo. The place however turned out only to do car tyres. They however direct me into Italy to a KTM dealer in the near by town of Tirano.

As I crossed the border I was pulled. That's it I thought but they were simply interested in whether I had bought cigarettes in Switzerland. The KTM dealer was particularly unhelpful but a customer, suggested I head for Grosio. Grosio was a small town, not much more that a village and it looked unpromising. In a garage a bloke on a Husqvarno told me to follow him and I did. He took me to the outskirts and a Moto Guzzi dealer, tucked away in the middle of nowhere - Moto Peroni - a place I am sure I wouldn't of found without help.

The shop was run by two brothers who could of been twins. Fortunately they a Pirelli Scorpion. The tyre seems ideal for my GS but I am a bit concerned at the miss match with my Avon storm front, but the chap tells me it will be fine. What can I do? He is really helpful and a trust him but at 155 euros it is a bit steep. Thank God for credit cards !!

Having got my new tyre I head back into Grosio for lunch but can't find anywhere so it's back to Tirano and I am tempted to head for the KTM dealer but I suspect they couldn't care less. It strikes me then that for an area so popular with bikes there are very few dealers. I suspect for someone with a bit of money there is an opportunity to exploit especially round Andermatt as there are so many passes nearby to attract the biker.

I am rather pleased with myself. Despite the expense I had enjoyed tackling the problem and coming up with a result and it had not taken as long as I had supposed. I decided it would be wise to scrub the new tyre in before I tackled the Stelvio so I decided after lunch to fly up the S38 - the via del Stelvo - to Bormio and back. The road is quite straight and although a single carriageway has the feel of a motorway, especially compared to the roads I had become used to over the last few days. The road winds up the valley through a series of ever increasingly long tunnels, the last being 7964 m long.

Unlike the Swiss the Italian driver has absolutely no respect for traffic laws or road safety. They tail gate, overtake on solid whites and on blind bends, even in tunnels but fortunately also don't stick to the low speed limit.

The outskirts of Bormio remind, for some reason, of America. I am not sure why. Perhaps because the buildings are set back from the road and well spaced with big signs on the roadside. All very clean and functional and no character. There is nothing that inspires me to stop and take a look round. I turn round and head back to Tirano and fly back through the tunnels.

I've put about 50 miles on the new tyre and decide to head to the small town of Sondalo to find a hotel. I had decided back home to avoid Bormio, mainly because the hotels were full but they also seemed expensive. Although I was perhaps only 20 - 25 miles on from where I had spent last night I didn't fancy going back to La Prese and Sondalo was just that bit nearer the Stelvio. Sondalo is built on the side of a steep hill and the road wound up the side in a series of hairpins. The hotel was on the corner of one, near the top and from the outside didn't look much, but inside it seemed clean and cheap enough. The reception was on the top floor with the rooms below going down the side of the hill. It had the advantage of an underground car park but the ramp was very steep with a tricky turn into the garage itself. The view from the room though was quite something.

An expensive day and it was a shame to miss Livigno which is where I had originally planned to head but I think it was time and money well spent and I must say the new tyre really looked the business on my GS. The tyre mouldings had been scrubbed off, leaving just the little spikes of rubber round the edge. We'll see what we can do about that tomorrow !

86 miles

Day Ten

Bormio - Stelvio - Umbrial - Ofenpass - Livigno - Passo d'Eira - Passo di Foscagno

I set of for the Stelvio just before 9 am in glorious hot sunshine. I run back up the S38 to Bormio and as you leave the town you almost immediately start the long climb up. It is in fact a fabulous road, wide with a good surface. Half way up I came across a recent rock fall with boulders the size of small tellys blocking the way.

I manage to find a way through, passing the authorities who were scratching their heads. The views were stupendous and towards the top ithe road levels out but this turns out to be a false summit. Most passes have a hotel, cafe or building of some sort at the top, but on this occassion this simply marked the junction with the Umbrial at a mere 2501 m and the route back into Switzerland. From here the road continues to climb to the top and this last little bit is the best.

The road tops out at 2754 m. Top of the world !

At the summit there is a little shanty town which spoils the grandeur of the place. Confusingly also called Bormio. A couple of hotels, a rough gravel car park and a row of souvenir stalls and the odd sausage seller. The place is heaving with bikes and cars and I stop long enough only to take a few snaps and buy a post card and a sticker.

The road down the eastern side is the route the Stelvio is best known for and features in all the pictures of the Stelvio.

It is different in character than the western side. The top has recently been re-laid and good. The road is narrower and tighter.

I really enjoy the ride down, overtaking quite a few as I do. I realize I must be getting the hang of it or my new tyre is better that I had hoped. The rocky landscape gives way to tree lined slopes and a grassy alpine valley. I had been on the go for two hours so I turned off into the village of Stelvio for a coffee.

In Stelvio a German came over to check out the bike. He suggests I visit Solda with a wink and a touch of the nose as if he were recommending a den of iniquity. As I leave he touches his nose again "Solda" he says. Emily says Solda is only 9 or 10 km away and I have to pass the turn off so I think what he hell. The ride up was another brilliant road which I rather enjoyed. Solda was a lovely little resort but little else to recommend it - certainly no dancing girls.

I head back up the Stelvio with the idea of having lunch back in Bormio. On the way up I hook up with 4 Germans each on a newish R1200GS.

I think this should be fun and we can slap yourselves on the back when we get to the top but they are so slow, dropping into first gear for each bend. I mean really first ? That was oh so last week !! It seems rude to overtake but needs must and there is a certain satisfaction in showing them how it's done. Oh boy does it feel good !!

Towards the top, before you reach the last section there is a hotel with a fab view of the road and the summit. I had caught up with a coach and the narrow road limited the overtaking so a pulled in to soak up the view.

After a few snaps I pull out with the Germans just coming round the bend below. Gosh they are slow.

It is even more crowded at the top and and don't stop. The road back down towards Bormio is clear and I attack it with vigor really having a blast. I have read posts asking which is best up or down east or west ? The question is redunant really - just do both and stop worrying about it.Generally I had come to enjoy going up a pass because you can go for it but once you have confidence in tackling the bends going down can just be as much fun. By the time you get to the Stelvio you will have quite a few passes under your belt and like me I suspect you will enjoy the prospect of doing it both ways. If you can get rounnd a roundabout without fallinng off or do a U-turn without putting a foor down you'll manage the Stelvio no problem.

At the junction with the Umbrail the police have shut the road back down. The rock fall was clearly serious enough to make it unsafe. They directed us down the Umbria. I had not planned to ride the pass. Back home I read reports that the rough surface was gravel and only for the most adventurous. From the comfort of my sofa I doubted my abilities and thought there plenty of others to choose from. But after my adventure off road at Evolene I didn't think twice and set off the way directed.

In fact the top half of the road has recently been re-laid and is good and it is an enjoyable ride chasing two Austrian sports bikes. A third of the way down the tarmac ended. The road was indeed gravel and although the top layer was loose it was none the less hardly taxing. Although I slowed down and the Austrians waved me by the tight bends were gone and I was soon on the tarmac again. The road now wound down through trees and the hairpins returned. All in all it would of been a shame to have missed out and I was pleased I had been forced to take a detour,

The road comes out just before the village of Santa Maria where I pull over for some grub. So far today has been brilliant and the only time I had been overtaken was whilst I was being too polite as the Germans crunched their way up the Stelvio and 2 Swiss bikes took the opportunity to shoot by.

From Santa Maria its up the S28 and the Ofenpass at 2149 m. Its a nice little run up through trees and the scenery and buildings are all very Germanic again. The road takes us to the tunnel at Punt La Drossa and back into Italy. The tunnel is carved straight out of the rock. It's narrow, wide enough for one line of traffic only, low with a line of low wattage lights running along the roof. Anything larger than a transit would struggle. It was rather like riding up the entrance to a baddies hideout in a James Bond movie The tunnel is controlled by lights and we have a 10 minute wait before we can transit.

The tunnel exits by a lovely long lake - Lago del Gallo - and we cross a dam to join another queue. I curse customs but it turns out to be a toll for the tunnel - 10 euros. Cash only - which I haven't got. I offer then CHF and smile sweetly. The teller isn't happy but takes the money and lets me go.

The run into Livigno is good and I'm pleased I made it after changing my plans when I replaced my tyre. From a distance Livigno looks pleasant enough but is packed solid with tourists. Not my sort of place at all.The traffic is terrible and I swelter in the heat. I decided not to stop. I don't think I missed much, Perhaps Bormio would be better.

Out of Livigno we turn left and climb up the S301 and the Passo d'Eira at 2209 m and the Passo di Foscagno at 2291 m. Here we encounter the customs post, which I wasn't expecting because we had been in Italy for some time by the time we reached it. I get pulled again. I curse at the customs man, but I'm only brave enough to do so to myself. "Any Cigarettes?" "No!" What is it with the Italian customs and fags? I presume they must be cheaper in Switzerland. "OK" he says "Have nice holidays". I feel a bit mean as he was pleasant enough and he could of got the rubber gloves out I suppose.

I head off for Bormio past the turning I had taken in the morning for the Stelvio which was now blocked by the police. Bormio is as horrid as Livigno. That is perhaps unfair to both as they are clearly popular but there is nothing to incite me to jump off and look around. I am hot and tired and the prospect of the run down the via del Stelvio back to the hotel was welcomed. I would be able to get some speed up and with speed came the cooling effect of the air through my jacket and the vents in the helmet, So I headed to the hotel flat out for a nice cold beer.

125 miles

The day I did the Stelvio !

 

[GreatScott]

Day Eleven

Julierpass - Italy - Switzerland - Liechtenstein - Austria - Germany

The plan had been to head back over the Stelvio, broadly following Magnum's route. Into Austria and home but the road closure made me re-think. I assumed they couldn't possibly of cleared the fall and stabilized the rock face so in all probability the road up would still be closed. As I went over the Umbrail yesterday I thought I would simply go via the tunnel at Livigno but the traffic made the road too slow and I couldn't face it. The only option was to return the way I had come, back towards St Mortiz.

I set off a fraction before 9 am without a cloud in the sky. As I travel back up the Bernina I think the bike handles better fully loaded and I make the most of it. At St Mortiz I could turn right for Davos but decide to go left and pick up the road up the Julierpass. I am delighted after my regret at missing it the other day. There I was wondering when I might ever next be this way !

At the top I stop for coffee. The shop, like all others at the top of the pass, sells stickers. I had, apart from Stelvio, resisted but here, unlike all the other shops sold stickers for all the passes, In a moment of weakness I succumbed and bought the lot ! Whilst drinking my coffee two lads cycled up to the summit. Not an once of fat on them and they didn't have the decency to be out of breath. They shook hands turned round and head off back the way they had come. Hats off to them!

I set off after them and find myself touching 60 mph. What a hoot but I come to my senses , telling myself a fortnight in the mountains doesn't make me invincible. I settle down for an enjoyable run. The scenery is typical of the wide open alpine valleys I had come to expect with lovely little villages dotted here and there. It occurred to me then that Julier would be my last alpine pass. I was going home.

The canbus told me my driving light had gone.Sod it it can wait until I stop for lunch. At 12.30 pm I pull into Thusis and check the light. Yep, buggered! Fortunately I had spares and it was 2 minute job to replace it.

After lunch we set of for Chur joining the A13 just before Chur. The road follows the Rhine and is lined with industrial buildings and is generally uninteresting and functional. The views of the mountains in the distance are however still magnificent. The road forks towards St Margrethen and then to the right onto the A28 which takes us into Liechtenstein. There is no border and it is all anticlimactic. Vaduz is pleasant enough and as you might expect, full of banks. I stop for a drink, but can't find any post cards. The petrol is a whooping 1.70 euros. I don't fill up.

I head off towards Feldkirch and Austria. The Austrian border is massive clearly a relic from the past as it completely unmanned. It's back onto the motorway the A114 towards Bregenz. A German Audi 2 overtakes me a coke can is thrown out of the passenger window at me. It misses by miles but brings me up with a start. My initial reaction is give chase and kick the door in, but I think better of it. What would it achieve? As the motorway ends at Bregenz the traffic builds up and I get a certain satisfaction as filter passed the Audi giving him the finger. For the first time I find myself agreeing with Jeremy Clarkson - Audis are driven by cocks.

From now the road follows the north shore of Lake Konstanz and you get glimpses of the lake between the fruit trees which line the road. We are out of the Alps now. The towns and villages are just as you might image. Spotless, Germanic and very pretty. Its gone 4 pm so I pull off into Immenstaad to look for a hotel. The first is shut ! Everywhere else I try is full. I pull into one hotel car park and I am set about by some woman who is clearly offended by my presence. "It's not allowed!" she berates. "What's not allowed?" Bikers I gather. I am hot and tired and to my shame I use my best Anglo-Saxon to tell her to go forth and multiply. Up to this point throughout my trip I had received nothing but kindness help and interest in my journey. This was the first and apart from the Audi, the only negative reaction I had encountered. I stormed off without actually checking whether the hotel actually had a room. At one hotel the receptionist saw me holding Emily, which I unclipped every time I got off the bike - just in case. All he wanted to do was compare it with his. Yeah right - I couldn't careless mate have you got a room? No? Good sod off. I found a tourist information office who told me there were no hotels in Germany ! Fortunately this improved my humour as the idea there were no hotels in German tickled me. I think something might have been losted in the translation.

I needed to cool down. All this getting on and off, dressing and undressing in all this heat was energy sapping. Uberlingen looked more promising. Immenstaad was just too pretty - a tourist trap and I should of realised it was bound to be packed. Uberlingen was a larger town and on turning off the main road there was a big tourist information board. It listed all the hotels. Next to each was either a red light or a green to indicate whether there were vacancies or not. The first with rooms was the Bad Hotel. It seemed some how appropriate. I rang the number. "Yes sir we have rooms. Would you like one with a shower?" "Yes please and a bed." " Sir all our rooms have beds." "Really? OK I'll have one then."

I key the address into Emily and 20 minutes later I am cooling off in the shower.

206 miles and 5 countries

Day Twelve

Uberlingen - Neufchateau

I had my fill of motorways yesterday so I vowed to keep off them today and set off as the church bells tolled 9 am. I head along the coast of Lake Konstanz to Espasingen where I joined the D31. To be honest I have no idea where I went from there. I just let Emily get on with it. We followed the D31 to Hinterzarten. Despite my wish to stay off motorways the road was as close as you could get and not terribly interesting. Emily eventually took me on to an interesting road through forested countryside with fast winding roads to Wembeck and on to Mullhiem. My Michelin map indicates the road is a "difficult or a dangerous section of road". Not for me tyre boy ! It was great .

We ended up in Colmar which I could and should of missed. Out of Colmar we took the D317 and this too proved to be an excellent find. Good old Emily. It took us through the Vosges and the fabulous Col de la Schluclt at 1135 m. The top was clouded in mist and the view was obscure. The road up was fast with nice sweeping bends not the tight hairpins of the Alps.

At Geraramer we took the D11 then the D166 to Vittel and from there is was a short run to Neufchateau along the D164. As I came into Neufchatea I found a nice little hotel and at 50 euros and a garage would do nicely.

I had expected today to be uninteresting and I had just planned to knock off the miles back home but in the end it had been an enjoyable day.

237 miles

Day Thirteen

Neufchateau - Calais - home

My last day was as glorious as the rest and we hit the road at 9.15 pm on the D427 to Joinville passing through tiny hamlets. From Joinville we took the N67 to St Dizier then the N4 to Vitry le Francois where I stop in a lovely square with a cathedral and not a cloud in the sky. My bike trousers reek. I reckon they could walk home. I slip into jeans and strap the offending article to the bike.

From Vitry we charge up the N44 to Chalons en Champagne. Here roadworks force a detour and Emily doesn't recognise the road, having me plough across fields. We turn on the D3 to Epernay, stopping for lunch. From Epernay the road proudly proclaims it to be the route de champagne with vineyards either side of the road. Each little hamlet seemed to have an exclusive looking champagne house. The road was straight and fast but little else to recommend it.

The road took us eventually to Sissons and from there up the D6 to Noyon. We then took the D932 and D937 to Peronne. The heat and tiredness were getting to me and I couldn't work out if I was going to make the ferry on time if I kept to the D roads. The ferry left at 6.30 pm but I could work out if that was UK or French time. I decided to jump to the motorway and head for Calais.

I got there with three quarters of an hour to spare. It was only another 94 miles back home from Dover and I pulled in a 9 pm. Un-hitched Emily stepped over a pile of mail and went to bed.

436 miles

2794 miles in total

More photos : http://s626.photobucket.com/albums/tt348/hrr1200gs/The Alps 2009/

 

[Martin S]

Great write -up!

 

[Invicta Moto]

Great write-up and some excellent pix of the passes...

 

[Woooodentop]

Day Eleven

Julierpass - Italy - Switzerland - Liechtenstein - Austria - Germany

The plan had been to head back over the Stelvio, broadly following Magnum's route. Into Austria and home but the road closure made me re-think. I assumed they couldn't possibly of cleared the fall and stabilized the rock face so in all probability the road up would still be closed. As I went over the Umbrail yesterday I thought I would simply go via the tunnel at Livigno but the traffic made the road too slow and I couldn't face it. The only option was to return the way I had come, back towards St Mortiz.

I set off a fraction before 9 am without a cloud in the sky. As I travel back up the Bernina I think the bike handles better fully loaded and I make the most of it. At St Mortiz I could turn right for Davos but decide to go left and pick up the road up the Julierpass. I am delighted after my regret at missing it the other day. There I was wondering when I might ever next be this way !

At the top I stop for coffee. The shop, like all others at the top of the pass, sells stickers. I had, apart from Stelvio, resisted but here, unlike all the other shops sold stickers for all the passes, In a moment of weakness I succumbed and bought the lot ! Whilst drinking my coffee two lads cycled up to the summit. Not an once of fat on them and they didn't have the decency to be out of breath. They shook hands turned round and head off back the way they had come. Hats off to them!

I set off after them and find myself touching 60 mph. What a hoot but I come to my senses , telling myself a fortnight in the mountains doesn't make me invincible. I settle down for an enjoyable run. The scenery is typical of the wide open alpine valleys I had come to expect with lovely little villages dotted here and there. It occurred to me then that Julier would be my last alpine pass. I was going home.

The canbus told me my driving light had gone.Sod it it can wait until I stop for lunch. At 12.30 pm I pull into Thusis and check the light. Yep, buggered! Fortunately I had spares and it was 2 minute job to replace it.

After lunch we set of for Chur joining the A13 just before Chur. The road follows the Rhine and is lined with industrial buildings and is generally uninteresting and functional. The views of the mountains in the distance are however still magnificent. The road forks towards St Margrethen and then to the right onto the A28 which takes us into Liechtenstein. There is no border and it is all anticlimactic. Vaduz is pleasant enough and as you might expect, full of banks. I stop for a drink, but can't find any post cards. The petrol is a whooping 1.70 euros. I don't fill up.

I head off towards Feldkirch and Austria. The Austrian border is massive clearly a relic from the past as it completely unmanned. It's back onto the motorway the A114 towards Bregenz. A German Audi 2 overtakes me a coke can is thrown out of the passenger window at me. It misses by miles but brings me up with a start. My initial reaction is give chase and kick the door in, but I think better of it. What would it achieve? As the motorway ends at Bregenz the traffic builds up and I get a certain satisfaction as filter passed the Audi giving him the finger. For the first time I find myself agreeing with Jeremy Clarkson - Audis are driven by cocks.

From now the road follows the north shore of Lake Konstanz and you get glimpses of the lake between the fruit trees which line the road. We are out of the Alps now. The towns and villages are just as you might image. Spotless, Germanic and very pretty. Its gone 4 pm so I pull off into Immenstaad to look for a hotel. The first is shut ! Everywhere else I try is full. I pull into one hotel car park and I am set about by some woman who is clearly offended by my presence. "It's not allowed!" she berates. "What's not allowed?" Bikers I gather. I am hot and tired and to my shame I use my best Anglo-Saxon to tell her to go forth and multiply. Up to this point throughout my trip I had received nothing but kindness help and interest in my journey. This was the first and apart from the Audi, the only negative reaction I had encountered. I stormed off without actually checking whether the hotel actually had a room. At one hotel the receptionist saw me holding Emily, which I unclipped every time I got off the bike - just in case. All he wanted to do was compare it with his. Yeah right - I couldn't careless mate have you got a room? No? Good sod off. I found a tourist information office who told me there were no hotels in Germany ! Fortunately this improved my humour as the idea there were no hotels in German tickled me. I think something might have been losted in the translation.

I needed to cool down. All this getting on and off, dressing and undressing in all this heat was energy sapping. Uberlingen looked more promising. Immenstaad was just too pretty - a tourist trap and I should of realised it was bound to be packed. Uberlingen was a larger town and on turning off the main road there was a big tourist information board. It listed all the hotels. Next to each was either a red light or a green to indicate whether there were vacancies or not. The first with rooms was the Bad Hotel. It seemed some how appropriate. I rang the number. "Yes sir we have rooms. Would you like one with a shower?" "Yes please and a bed." " Sir all our rooms have beds." "Really? OK I'll have one then."

I key the address into Emily and 20 minutes later I am cooling off in the shower.

206 miles and 5 countries

Day Twelve

Uberlingen - Neufchateau

I had my fill of motorways yesterday so I vowed to keep off them today and set off as the church bells tolled 9 am. I head along the coast of Lake Konstanz to Espasingen where I joined the D31. To be honest I have no idea where I went from there. I just let Emily get on with it. We followed the D31 to Hinterzarten. Despite my wish to stay off motorways the road was as close as you could get and not terribly interesting. Emily eventually took me on to an interesting road through forested countryside with fast winding roads to Wembeck and on to Mullhiem. My Michelin map indicates the road is a "difficult or a dangerous section of road". Not for me tyre boy ! It was great .

We ended up in Colmar which I could and should of missed. Out of Colmar we took the D317 and this too proved to be an excellent find. Good old Emily. It took us through the Vosges and the fabulous Col de la Schluclt at 1135 m. The top was clouded in mist and the view was obscure. The road up was fast with nice sweeping bends not the tight hairpins of the Alps.

At Geraramer we took the D11 then the D166 to Vittel and from there is was a short run to Neufchateau along the D164. As I came into Neufchatea I found a nice little hotel and at 50 euros and a garage would do nicely.

I had expected today to be uninteresting and I had just planned to knock off the miles back home but in the end it had been an enjoyable day.

237 miles

Day Thirteen

Neufchateau - Calais - home

My last day was as glorious as the rest and we hit the road at 9.15 pm on the D427 to Joinville passing through tiny hamlets. From Joinville we took the N67 to St Dizier then the N4 to Vitry le Francois where I stop in a lovely square with a cathedral and not a cloud in the sky. My bike trousers reek. I reckon they could walk home. I slip into jeans and strap the offending article to the bike.

From Vitry we charge up the N44 to Chalons en Champagne. Here roadworks force a detour and Emily doesn't recognise the road, having me plough across fields. We turn on the D3 to Epernay, stopping for lunch. From Epernay the road proudly proclaims it to be the route de champagne with vineyards either side of the road. Each little hamlet seemed to have an exclusive looking champagne house. The road was straight and fast but little else to recommend it.

The road took us eventually to Sissons and from there up the D6 to Noyon. We then took the D932 and D937 to Peronne. The heat and tiredness were getting to me and I couldn't work out if I was going to make the ferry on time if I kept to the D roads. The ferry left at 6.30 pm but I could work out if that was UK or French time. I decided to jump to the motorway and head for Calais.

I got there with three quarters of an hour to spare. It was only another 94 miles back home from Dover and I pulled in a 9 pm. Un-hitched Emily stepped over a pile of mail and went to bed.

436 miles

2794 miles in total

More photos : http://s626.photobucket.com/albums/tt348/hrr1200gs/The Alps 2009/

Great write up thanx
Woooody

 

[spikerjack 46]

Great write up and pics.

This is my favourite of getting to Stelvio.

 

[GreatScott]

Thanks guys - wish I was there now!

Great write up and pics.

This is my favourite of getting to Stelvio.

View attachment 129927

Good pic. That must be the western side.

 

[kanhulk13]

Absolutely fantastic write-up...You hit more passes than I have and I live in Switzerland! (OK, I tend to 'replay' the nearby passes many times over). Sounds like the weather gods worked with you for most of the journey as well.

The Germans can be very pedantic, so when they said there were no rooms they were likely just be factual (but unhelpful). I guess it always helps if you speak some of the local lingo and patience patience patience... Usually what we see as rudeness is their lack of familiarity with the English language. From experience, it's difficult to express yourself 'politely' in a foreign language. I usually apologize for my poor German/French and then smile...but this works better for me with the ladies. The only exception to this, of course, being Paris, where it doesn't matter what you speak (incldg. French). The response is almost always the Gallic shrug.

My guess with the Audi was that this was some slob not paying any attention to you or anyone else and simply tossed his can out the window. Definitely not typical for Austria (likely not an Austrian in the car).

All in all you will have some great memories with the whole trip logged here!

next trip....all the passes between Chamonix and South France?