Finally got round to doing this!
Big thank you to Les W for his patient replies over the 'tinternet'
I got a pair of FF50's HiD converted from Les, a light bar from Nippy Normans and some sundries from www.vehicleproducts.co.uk.
I also just recieved a nice shiney oil cooler grill (thanks Mike!) so I took the beak off - easy done, just unscrew the fixing bolts, remove the indicator stalks and pry away
The light bar attatches to the fixing bolts behind the oil cooler grill:
Left slightly loose for the wiring..
Bar from bottom
Then I started thinking about light positions. I have two other small fog lamps that were going to be done at the same time - sacked that for another day.
All bolts come with the brackets - I plan to change them to stainless steel in the near future
Bolted the lights on, nipped up finger tight just to see what they look like, also now the shiney grill is fitted!
The next problem I faced was fitting the ballasts, I think this is the thing most covered in all the HiD fitting guides.
I'm sure there are better places protected from the elements on the bike but the leads are quite short limiting you to only a few spots.
I opted to make up another bar from a bit of galvanized steel from homebase
The yellow tape is in line with the fixing bolts from the mudguard extender on the beak, the plan was to use the existing bolts to secure the bar.
The three ballasts were secured via 3M dual lock velcro
Once in place they are snug against the beak and do not move
same again, from the side
Next bit is the wiring.
I used Lee Bastin's great guide for wiring auxillery lights - again!!
Battery terminals first with inline fuse on the +
I did this first so I could get an idea of how long the cable run would be and to select a good route to the front of the bike. - the tank was off to help this.
Next to identify the main beam positive lead which is white, taking the pilot light out helps get some room if you've got sausage fingers
Using a cable tap I ran a cable directly from the white cable to the relay
Attatch the four cables to the relay and secure - fits well here:
Now the fun bit......
The cables from the lights and the power cables
I managed to dual lock and zip tie the 3 'black boxes' to the actual light bar- they are not moving for anything now!
Once routed, I ziptied the red power connectors to the top of the black boxes, as the original position fouled the forks and cables were being tightened. In this position, there are no obstructions.
The wires from the lights are ziptied to the bottom of the light bar keeping the wiring neat. I have applied waterproofing to the wires and connectors (there waterproof connectors but it's just to keep the crud off and to camoflage the bright blue and red)
First piccy with lights fitted
How bright!! makes the main beam look silly!
Daylight comparison - dip beam and 1w led pilot bulb
Main beams



They fit the shape of the bike really well
All in, everything secured and threadlocked and double checked, spots lined up - like a death ray!
So, 3 thank you's - 1 to Les for the great lights, top email advice and a prompt service,
2 to Lee Bastin and his DIY auxillery lights diagrams and info.
All the wiring info is there and is repeated many times on the forum.
3 to all the other poor sods who have spent ages documenting there HiD successes and fitting failures on the forum!
Hope this will help someone with fitting HiD spots!
Now off for a test ride ride!
Sid


Big thank you to Les W for his patient replies over the 'tinternet'
I got a pair of FF50's HiD converted from Les, a light bar from Nippy Normans and some sundries from www.vehicleproducts.co.uk.
I also just recieved a nice shiney oil cooler grill (thanks Mike!) so I took the beak off - easy done, just unscrew the fixing bolts, remove the indicator stalks and pry away
The light bar attatches to the fixing bolts behind the oil cooler grill:
Left slightly loose for the wiring..
Bar from bottom
Then I started thinking about light positions. I have two other small fog lamps that were going to be done at the same time - sacked that for another day.
All bolts come with the brackets - I plan to change them to stainless steel in the near future
Bolted the lights on, nipped up finger tight just to see what they look like, also now the shiney grill is fitted!
The next problem I faced was fitting the ballasts, I think this is the thing most covered in all the HiD fitting guides.
I'm sure there are better places protected from the elements on the bike but the leads are quite short limiting you to only a few spots.
I opted to make up another bar from a bit of galvanized steel from homebase
The yellow tape is in line with the fixing bolts from the mudguard extender on the beak, the plan was to use the existing bolts to secure the bar.
The three ballasts were secured via 3M dual lock velcro
Once in place they are snug against the beak and do not move
same again, from the side
Next bit is the wiring.
I used Lee Bastin's great guide for wiring auxillery lights - again!!
Battery terminals first with inline fuse on the +
I did this first so I could get an idea of how long the cable run would be and to select a good route to the front of the bike. - the tank was off to help this.
Next to identify the main beam positive lead which is white, taking the pilot light out helps get some room if you've got sausage fingers
Using a cable tap I ran a cable directly from the white cable to the relay
Attatch the four cables to the relay and secure - fits well here:
Now the fun bit......
The cables from the lights and the power cables
I managed to dual lock and zip tie the 3 'black boxes' to the actual light bar- they are not moving for anything now!
Once routed, I ziptied the red power connectors to the top of the black boxes, as the original position fouled the forks and cables were being tightened. In this position, there are no obstructions.
The wires from the lights are ziptied to the bottom of the light bar keeping the wiring neat. I have applied waterproofing to the wires and connectors (there waterproof connectors but it's just to keep the crud off and to camoflage the bright blue and red)
First piccy with lights fitted
Daylight comparison - dip beam and 1w led pilot bulb
Main beams




They fit the shape of the bike really well
All in, everything secured and threadlocked and double checked, spots lined up - like a death ray!
So, 3 thank you's - 1 to Les for the great lights, top email advice and a prompt service,
2 to Lee Bastin and his DIY auxillery lights diagrams and info.
All the wiring info is there and is repeated many times on the forum.
3 to all the other poor sods who have spent ages documenting there HiD successes and fitting failures on the forum!
Hope this will help someone with fitting HiD spots!
Now off for a test ride ride!
Sid


