Intermittent starting problem

[ferguscawley]

Re: Re: Update

Forkseal is a cheap job jon, dont worry about it, good luck with the clutch switch

Jon - not only is it a cheap job -its a simple job also. Easily done on your driveway with the most basic of tools. Forks on the GS just pull apart - no need to 'special' tools to separate the fork leg and slider tube. Its a 5 minute job once you take the fork out (in fact you can do it with the upper fork tube (attached to the steering) still in place.

 

[shready]

Is it really that simple?

Is there any fiddling around with spring compressors?

I can do servicing and stuff but not major work.

I'm prepared to have a bash if it's relatively easy.

What is the Haynes manual spanner rating??

Jon

 

[ferguscawley]

Is it really that simple?

Is there any fiddling around with spring compressors?

I can do servicing and stuff but not major work.

I'm prepared to have a bash if it's relatively easy.

What is the Haynes manual spanner rating??

Jon

Spanner rating - Retarded - No need to touch telelever/shock etc

Heres how to do it (assume RH fork leaking)

Remove brake calipers and front wheel
Remove the 4 allen head bolts on the fork brace (usually stiff - use a good quality allen-drive)
Pull the lower fork leg off (yes - it just pulls off)
Drain remains of old fork oil
Lever out dust seal with a screwdriver
Prise out circlip above oil seal (keep this)
Pull out oil seal.
Fit new oil seal
Replace circlip
Fit new dust seal
Add required quantity of fork oil
Slide lower fork leg back onto upper fork tube
Replace fork brace bolts
Replace wheel & calipers
Done.

Ferg

 

[shready]

Thanks Ferg,

That's Saturday afternoon sorted!!

That decorating can wait 'til next week!!

Cheers.

Jon

 

[richie]

OK Jon, I'm a bit slow on this, and like you it aint really a big problem (so far)

It is not the side stand switch.

I cleaned up the clutch area with WD40, so far the bike will only start if in NEutral with the green light on. If the bike has the gear lever pushed down so the light is out but the RID is still seeing 0 it will not start. I reckon (unfortunatly) that the problem is in the gear box switch area.

BUT I KNOW NOTHING. So I'm leaving it for a while to see what happens (when it breaks down)

 

[Thomas]

Spanner rating - Retarded - No need to touch telelever/shock etc

Heres how to do it (assume RH fork leaking)

Remove brake calipers and front wheel
Remove the 4 allen head bolts on the fork brace (usually stiff - use a good quality allen-drive)
Pull the lower fork leg off (yes - it just pulls off)
Drain remains of old fork oil
Lever out dust seal with a screwdriver
Prise out circlip above oil seal (keep this)
Pull out oil seal.
Fit new oil seal
Replace circlip
Fit new dust seal
Add required quantity of fork oil
Slide lower fork leg back onto upper fork tube
Replace fork brace bolts
Replace wheel & calipers
Done.

Ferg

Or:

Leave everyting in place.
Unbolt the inner leg from the head stock.
Slide it down into the lower leg. Completely in.
Lever out dust seal with a screwdriver
Prise out circlip above oil seal (keep this)
Pull out oil seal.
Fit new oil seal
Replace circlip
Fit new dust seal
Pull out inner leg and bolt it back on/in the head stock.

Viola.

 

[Thomas]

Replace fork brace bolts

This requires the axle to be fit first.

So, install the brace, but do not the allen bolts.

Put in the axle and tighten it to spec.

Then the space between the lower forklegs should be measured up and/or set to the right distance.

("A" should be 16.5cm)

Then tighten the allen bolts on the brace.