Iran and back in a month on a 650.
- Thread starter Drumacoon Lad.
- Start date
Fantastic report. I will be down the A32 to buy you a coffee (or beer) when you return, to get your tips and advice on riding to and in Iran
Love reading the RR, glad all is going well
A great read.....This stuff is why I got involved with this site in the first place.....Please keep it coming and safe journey ......
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Its been a no riding daytodayand I have spent the time absorbing the delights of Esfahan. This has taken most of the day and it needs a longer time so I have been cramming, so I have little time to update the ride report. It is a bit of a balancing act to enjoy the place you are visiting and keep a report up to date.
I took lots of photos and even if I am very selective, I believe there are lots of good ones, of a 1000 year old Bazaar, the 2nd biggest square in the world, a 1500 year old domed roof, an unbelievable tiled domed mosque and 2 spectacular 350 year old bridges. These photos will come but not tonight, as I need to pack and be out of my room by 8AM, and I am 3.5 hours ahead of UK, so it is already after 11PM here. Riding again tomorrow.
I took lots of photos and even if I am very selective, I believe there are lots of good ones, of a 1000 year old Bazaar, the 2nd biggest square in the world, a 1500 year old domed roof, an unbelievable tiled domed mosque and 2 spectacular 350 year old bridges. These photos will come but not tonight, as I need to pack and be out of my room by 8AM, and I am 3.5 hours ahead of UK, so it is already after 11PM here. Riding again tomorrow.
Mr K
Registered user
Really appreciate you taking the time out of your trip to post.
long day riding today? no updates 
or guess no internet. 
or guess no internet. - Joined
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I appreciate the interest guys but this will be another short update as there are only so many hours in the day and sometimes other admin tasks take precedence over updates. As was also suggested it was a long day, after leaving Esfahan at 8 AM I was fighfing the traffic in Shiraz at aroud 6PM in 36C temperatures, having visited the ruins of Persepolis on the way. Part of the reason of doing this report is to share what it is like to do these trips, dealing with local climate, roads, traffic, wifi and the enevitable distractions which can come up.
The easiest thing today was the actual riding. I got a bit lost coming out of Esfahan but once on tne road it went OK. It was dual carrigeway and a pretty good surface. We were again at around 2,000 meters and it rose to 2,560 meters at one point. One thing about the road was that the service stations were not easy to spot, I missed 2, and there were long gaps between them. Persepolis is quite impressive with wonderful relief carving, photos to come. I find one of the hardest parts of this kind of trip is, particularly when staying in cities? to arrive tired and hot in this case, around rush hour, trying to find a hotel. It can be quite stressful and I suspect it is when you are more likely to loose concentration, never a good thing on a motorbike.
So be assured I will update when I can, as I generally enjoy doing it. Just Short of 4,000 miles so far.
The easiest thing today was the actual riding. I got a bit lost coming out of Esfahan but once on tne road it went OK. It was dual carrigeway and a pretty good surface. We were again at around 2,000 meters and it rose to 2,560 meters at one point. One thing about the road was that the service stations were not easy to spot, I missed 2, and there were long gaps between them. Persepolis is quite impressive with wonderful relief carving, photos to come. I find one of the hardest parts of this kind of trip is, particularly when staying in cities? to arrive tired and hot in this case, around rush hour, trying to find a hotel. It can be quite stressful and I suspect it is when you are more likely to loose concentration, never a good thing on a motorbike.
So be assured I will update when I can, as I generally enjoy doing it. Just Short of 4,000 miles so far.
Update appreciated. Thanks.
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OK some photos, first a funny how to carry your bike when your mate gives you a lift in his little motorbike.
Then 2 from Persepolis, 2,500 year old relief carvings.
Lastly Esfahan, this bridge has got to be up there with the best and this dome is tiled inside and out and is stunning.
Then 2 from Persepolis, 2,500 year old relief carvings.
Lastly Esfahan, this bridge has got to be up there with the best and this dome is tiled inside and out and is stunning.
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That bridge is stunning as well. Wow! And thank you for the update. No pressure when we ask for updates. it is more to check on your well being .
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
it is more to check on your well being . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
BigRedUn
Registered user
I'm really envious as I would love to have the time, and the balls, to do a trip like this. Looking forward to the next installment, stay safe.
Updates make for great reading.
Im currently across the Persian Gulf in Saudi, been here for about a year. Wife and I really wanted to ride up through UAE and across to Iran, unfortunately geopolitics being what it is we've zero hope of getting a visa this end so I admit I'm v envious.
How's the bike coping with the heat?
Look forward to the next instalment and thanks again
Im currently across the Persian Gulf in Saudi, been here for about a year. Wife and I really wanted to ride up through UAE and across to Iran, unfortunately geopolitics being what it is we've zero hope of getting a visa this end so I admit I'm v envious.
How's the bike coping with the heat?
Look forward to the next instalment and thanks again
Updates make for great reading.
Im currently across the Persian Gulf in Saudi, been here for about a year. Wife and I really wanted to ride up through UAE and across to Iran, unfortunately geopolitics being what it is we've zero hope of getting a visa this end so I admit I'm v envious.
How's the bike coping with the heat?
Look forward to the next instalment and thanks again
Can you not get a Visa to ride into the UAE, and then sort out the visa for Iran in Dubai. Then the ferry from Sharjah over to Iran.......
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So today was a no riding day and I've been looking around Shiraz. I have to say when I arrived yesterday, hot and bothered in mid 30c temperatures and struggled to find hotels and faught the traffic and the GPS to get to the hotel, I could have happily left first thing this morning. The arrival was complicated by not finding the good hotel I was looking for and having to settle for 2nd best and 2nd best was bad. However there was a third option close by and it was less bad, at least it was an ensuite room if only with a squat toilet. Anyway, after a walk around the town I did sleep well.
It may be worth stepping back to Esfahan because I think overall it will remain with me as the most beautiful city in Iran. I was lucky in having a good hotel there and pretty central and the bike was safely in the basement car park. It was not ideal as it was near the rubbish and some of the rubbish had smeared the tiled floor near the bike, which caught me out later. Breakfast was moderate for a 4 stsr hotel but I managed. Iset off early to visit the big square and arrived with few people around and the sound of loud bumblebees which were the noise of the hedge trimmers. The square is mostly a garden with lush green lawns and fountains. It is just a little smaller than Tiananmen square in China and centries ago they used to play polo in it. In the middle of each 3 sides is a lavishly decorated gate and in the middle of the 4th side is a mosque. Not just any mosque, but a beauty. Every inch of the interior and exterior is covered in the most beautiful tiles. As I walked into the central dome it made me gasp. The builder was so particular with the construction he fell out with the shah and risked being executed for being too slow, so he went away for a while but was pardened and allowed to build it his way. He created an optical illusion in the centre of the dome celing with a shaft of sunlight which resembles a peacock with open wings, quite amazing. The most charming thing I saw was while sitting on the marble wall outside the mosque. Right next to me was a piece of graffiti scratched in the marble. The graffiti was of a dagger with a curved blade. Now when was this done? Maybe last week but I doubt it and who was the guy and what was his life, we will never know but the image of his dagger remains.
The square sits on the edge of the bazaar and the guide book had a map to a walk through the bazaar to the other significant mosque. I tried the route, a few times, and in the end gave up and began to enjoy the basaar the look for souvenires. Again there was little pressures you walked and looked at items in the stalls and it was good to discover that you can bargain. I like bargaining. Maybe it comes from my origins on a small farm in Ireland. I only remember once going with my father to a fair (market) to sell one of our animals. This was not the organised cattle auction of today but you just went to the town square with your cattle and people came along and poked and felt them and if interested bargaining began. The deal would be sealed with a spit on the hand and handshake. And when the price was paid and small portion was returned to the buyed as a "Luck penny". But I digress. In the bazaar I would typically ask the price, and wince at the answer, go to move off and ask what was his best price. I'd then typically offer around half the best price and he'd wince and probably reduce his price. I'd repeat my offer and go to walk off and if he stayed silent I'd slouch back and improve my offer a little. The best one this time was where we had got down to a price of 100 and I had offered 80. *We seemed stuck so left the stall. Just as I went away I heard behind me 90. I was out of sight by this time and went back and asked did I hear 80? The guy smiled and wrapped up the goods. The 80 in this case is less than £2, so the cost isn't really the issue I enjoy the fun of it and mostly they do too.
After saving all this money and being weighed down I went for a coffee in a delightful square in the edge of the bazaar. There were lots of coffees on offer but I opted for a Persian coffee, like a Turkish coffee but a full cup, excellent, great taste and not too many coffee grains. While sitting there a group of students arrived clearly on an art class. Some went up to the balcony some sat on the square, all with drawing pads. Two girls were near me and chatting away as they drew. Then a tourist asked if he could take their photo and they agreed, so emboldened by this response I asked too. They readily agreed and I took their picture. Then one of the male students called me over and showed me he had been drawing me. It was a favourable likeness and he had the grace to say it was of me as a younger man. So after all this excitement I went for a siesta with the intention of going to the other mosque in the late afternoon. When I woke up I noticed it was 3:45 and checked the guide book on opening times. It closed at 4. So I had missed it, I was so disappointed. I concideded my options, to go and just see the outside, to go there on the bike in the morning and delay my departure to Shiraz, come back this way to see it. Nothing worked well but I decided to just go and see the outside, went down stairs and a taxi was waiting and said the mosque was open till 5:30, lets go. In fact the mosque was open tiill 6 and I had a good look around and was quite relieved. Next I took a last look at the square, now more crowded, and walked down to the river to see the bridges and have something to eat. You have seen one of tne bridges and I'll post a photo of the other, both are 350 years old and quite beautiful. There were lots of locals sitting down and wandering along the riverside. There were 3 robed ladies sharing a hubble bubble pipe sitting on the grass, which I would have loved to photograph. I did ask but was politely declined. Sometimes memories are the photos you don't get to take. Then in these sublime surroundings with the last of the sun illuminating the bridge I come across swan pedalos, all over the river, patrolled by a guy with a whistle and a canoe. I was listenting for him to say "Come in number, 26 your time is up" and maybe he did in Farsi. So then a slow wander back to the hotel feeling I had used the day well. Early start in the morning as I had to be out of the room by 8.
In the morning I packed and had breakfast and wanted to oil the chain before leaving. With some effort I popped the bike up on the centre stand, checked the oil and oiled the chain. *However, no matter how hard I tried I could not get the bike back down from the stand. It was just slipping on the dirty tiles and I had to get assistance to push to get it down. So fully loaded I headed south towards Shiraz. It took me a while to get out of town but was soon motoring on a good road. I mentioned the lack of petrol stations but it was not a problem and I had some extra fuel on the bike. The Acerbis reserve tank is working well now and I can do 180 miles or so before the yellow light comes on and I still have a range of about 30 miles left. I stopped at one point to take a photo and almost immediatly a guy stopped to see if I was in trouble. I it was a pretty desert like place so I suppose it is the code of the desert, like in the Sahara, you dont ride past a guy who has broken down.
Just 50km before Shiraz is the ancient city of Persepolis. It was hot when I arrived and at the same time as a Land Rover Defender, with German plates. The people were in fact Polish and on their way to China. We chatted for a bit before viewing the rouins. It was hot and I stupidly went without a sleeved shirt, thinking it was in my rucksack. Stone ruins in the blazing heat is like being in an oven, and I dodged to what shade I could find. The place is at the bottom of a rock face and is massive, created 2,500 years ago. Apart from the size it is amazing that the relief carving has lasted outside all this time. I could have spent longer but was melting and went back to the bike. *So it was after the 480km ride and the exposure of the heat of Persepolis that I drove into the busy city, not surprised it was a trial to find a suitable hotel. Once showered and rested, I was able to go and see a little of the busy town at night. The main structure is the old fort with a tower on each corner, one of which has partly subsided and now leans. I had some food and spoke to tne owner in my faltering German which seemed easier to him than English. He'd lived in Germany for some years.
Shiraz looked a lot better after a good nights sleep and it would have been even better after a great breakfast, but was not to be. I had to ask what was being served as the main part of the meal, omlette, well disguised then, even managed to mask the taste. After some bread and fresh cheese I went first to the tower and on to the bazaar and a recommended mosque. I'm reminded of a time in Italy after visiting many churches, where I heard an american guy say to his wife, "I think I'm all churched out" well it may be getting to that with me and mosques on this trip, beautiful though they are. Well what stuck with me from the first one today was that the staircase of 14 steps had been carved from a single piece of rock transported from Azerbaijan. The second thing I noticed is a quite well carved grafitti cross on one of the pillars, I won't comment on it's significance.
After this I sat down under a tree to refer to my guide book and a young lady was sitting close by. The lady spoke to me and asked of course where I was from and we chatted, soon her mother arrived and the lady asked if I would like a can of drink. I accepted and as it was cold it was very welcome. I then noticed the lady disappear for a monment and come back with another drink. She had given me her drink and went and bought another. Such kindless really is such a special quality and gave me a lift.
The bazaar was next and a pleasure to walk through. Very little tourist stuff just what the locals want to buy and no hassle. Because it is not a tourist place they were reluctant to haggle, they did, but I had to work harder. I did resist the BMW briefs as a souvenir of the longest distance from home I have ridden this bike, further even than the Gambia, but I did resist, and got myself something more tasteful later in the day. A stop midday for coffee which I was disappointed was only an Americano, but with a bun on the side, and tasted good. There is a significan Shia Muslim shrine in Shiraz one of the most sacred in Iran and I went to visit it next. Non muslims are allowed in with a guide and I met him and a couple of German guys and had the tour. He first took us into the mosque. *I've never been in a mosque while the faithful are praying and it was a powerful experience. The prayers are sung out by an Immam, I assume, and he had a powerful deep clear voice. Very different from the tinny sound you sometimes hear from loudspeakers. I found it sacred in a way, and quite moving. We were told we could take pictures but to me it did not seem right to be sharing what was a private experience for the faithful. We then went to see both mausoleums as there were 2 brothers who were killed on this spot in the 9th century. The rooms surrounding the mausoleums is staggering. Its a large room with a high vaulted ceiling and each inch of surface is covered in tiny mirrors, the size of coins. Each of these tiny pieces have been individually attached. The effect is overwhelming and impossible to photograph. This was all created since he Iranian revolution, so in the last 25 years or so. We were then entertained to tea by the guide and given some details of the site *before being escorted to the exit. The guide was a volunteer and would not accept a tip. As this is an open forum I would appreciate it that any comments be respectful. I did go to visit another mosque but the memorable thing was that a girl in the queue came over with a paper cup and a large bottle of water and gave me a drink while we waited for it to open, a further kindness.
The day ended with a visit to the garden surounding the mausoleum of the poet Hafez. Hardly the sort of place for a fun evening but it was crowded. Hafez is very well respected in Iran and in Shiraz and most houses will have a copy of his work.
There were selfies being take, readings of his work, it was buzzing. I had a meal there, a bowl of soup you could swim in, not the soup which was thick, but the bowl was big enough. I ate half and was full. I was concious that at the table next to me there was some interest in me. Then one of the ladies was encouraged to say hello. Then I had to show pictures of the bike, where had I come from etc. All very entertaining. So glad I came to Shiraz as I was debating it when in Esfahan, but it was worth it. Heading back North tomorrow.
It may be worth stepping back to Esfahan because I think overall it will remain with me as the most beautiful city in Iran. I was lucky in having a good hotel there and pretty central and the bike was safely in the basement car park. It was not ideal as it was near the rubbish and some of the rubbish had smeared the tiled floor near the bike, which caught me out later. Breakfast was moderate for a 4 stsr hotel but I managed. Iset off early to visit the big square and arrived with few people around and the sound of loud bumblebees which were the noise of the hedge trimmers. The square is mostly a garden with lush green lawns and fountains. It is just a little smaller than Tiananmen square in China and centries ago they used to play polo in it. In the middle of each 3 sides is a lavishly decorated gate and in the middle of the 4th side is a mosque. Not just any mosque, but a beauty. Every inch of the interior and exterior is covered in the most beautiful tiles. As I walked into the central dome it made me gasp. The builder was so particular with the construction he fell out with the shah and risked being executed for being too slow, so he went away for a while but was pardened and allowed to build it his way. He created an optical illusion in the centre of the dome celing with a shaft of sunlight which resembles a peacock with open wings, quite amazing. The most charming thing I saw was while sitting on the marble wall outside the mosque. Right next to me was a piece of graffiti scratched in the marble. The graffiti was of a dagger with a curved blade. Now when was this done? Maybe last week but I doubt it and who was the guy and what was his life, we will never know but the image of his dagger remains.
The square sits on the edge of the bazaar and the guide book had a map to a walk through the bazaar to the other significant mosque. I tried the route, a few times, and in the end gave up and began to enjoy the basaar the look for souvenires. Again there was little pressures you walked and looked at items in the stalls and it was good to discover that you can bargain. I like bargaining. Maybe it comes from my origins on a small farm in Ireland. I only remember once going with my father to a fair (market) to sell one of our animals. This was not the organised cattle auction of today but you just went to the town square with your cattle and people came along and poked and felt them and if interested bargaining began. The deal would be sealed with a spit on the hand and handshake. And when the price was paid and small portion was returned to the buyed as a "Luck penny". But I digress. In the bazaar I would typically ask the price, and wince at the answer, go to move off and ask what was his best price. I'd then typically offer around half the best price and he'd wince and probably reduce his price. I'd repeat my offer and go to walk off and if he stayed silent I'd slouch back and improve my offer a little. The best one this time was where we had got down to a price of 100 and I had offered 80. *We seemed stuck so left the stall. Just as I went away I heard behind me 90. I was out of sight by this time and went back and asked did I hear 80? The guy smiled and wrapped up the goods. The 80 in this case is less than £2, so the cost isn't really the issue I enjoy the fun of it and mostly they do too.
After saving all this money and being weighed down I went for a coffee in a delightful square in the edge of the bazaar. There were lots of coffees on offer but I opted for a Persian coffee, like a Turkish coffee but a full cup, excellent, great taste and not too many coffee grains. While sitting there a group of students arrived clearly on an art class. Some went up to the balcony some sat on the square, all with drawing pads. Two girls were near me and chatting away as they drew. Then a tourist asked if he could take their photo and they agreed, so emboldened by this response I asked too. They readily agreed and I took their picture. Then one of the male students called me over and showed me he had been drawing me. It was a favourable likeness and he had the grace to say it was of me as a younger man. So after all this excitement I went for a siesta with the intention of going to the other mosque in the late afternoon. When I woke up I noticed it was 3:45 and checked the guide book on opening times. It closed at 4. So I had missed it, I was so disappointed. I concideded my options, to go and just see the outside, to go there on the bike in the morning and delay my departure to Shiraz, come back this way to see it. Nothing worked well but I decided to just go and see the outside, went down stairs and a taxi was waiting and said the mosque was open till 5:30, lets go. In fact the mosque was open tiill 6 and I had a good look around and was quite relieved. Next I took a last look at the square, now more crowded, and walked down to the river to see the bridges and have something to eat. You have seen one of tne bridges and I'll post a photo of the other, both are 350 years old and quite beautiful. There were lots of locals sitting down and wandering along the riverside. There were 3 robed ladies sharing a hubble bubble pipe sitting on the grass, which I would have loved to photograph. I did ask but was politely declined. Sometimes memories are the photos you don't get to take. Then in these sublime surroundings with the last of the sun illuminating the bridge I come across swan pedalos, all over the river, patrolled by a guy with a whistle and a canoe. I was listenting for him to say "Come in number, 26 your time is up" and maybe he did in Farsi. So then a slow wander back to the hotel feeling I had used the day well. Early start in the morning as I had to be out of the room by 8.
In the morning I packed and had breakfast and wanted to oil the chain before leaving. With some effort I popped the bike up on the centre stand, checked the oil and oiled the chain. *However, no matter how hard I tried I could not get the bike back down from the stand. It was just slipping on the dirty tiles and I had to get assistance to push to get it down. So fully loaded I headed south towards Shiraz. It took me a while to get out of town but was soon motoring on a good road. I mentioned the lack of petrol stations but it was not a problem and I had some extra fuel on the bike. The Acerbis reserve tank is working well now and I can do 180 miles or so before the yellow light comes on and I still have a range of about 30 miles left. I stopped at one point to take a photo and almost immediatly a guy stopped to see if I was in trouble. I it was a pretty desert like place so I suppose it is the code of the desert, like in the Sahara, you dont ride past a guy who has broken down.
Just 50km before Shiraz is the ancient city of Persepolis. It was hot when I arrived and at the same time as a Land Rover Defender, with German plates. The people were in fact Polish and on their way to China. We chatted for a bit before viewing the rouins. It was hot and I stupidly went without a sleeved shirt, thinking it was in my rucksack. Stone ruins in the blazing heat is like being in an oven, and I dodged to what shade I could find. The place is at the bottom of a rock face and is massive, created 2,500 years ago. Apart from the size it is amazing that the relief carving has lasted outside all this time. I could have spent longer but was melting and went back to the bike. *So it was after the 480km ride and the exposure of the heat of Persepolis that I drove into the busy city, not surprised it was a trial to find a suitable hotel. Once showered and rested, I was able to go and see a little of the busy town at night. The main structure is the old fort with a tower on each corner, one of which has partly subsided and now leans. I had some food and spoke to tne owner in my faltering German which seemed easier to him than English. He'd lived in Germany for some years.
Shiraz looked a lot better after a good nights sleep and it would have been even better after a great breakfast, but was not to be. I had to ask what was being served as the main part of the meal, omlette, well disguised then, even managed to mask the taste. After some bread and fresh cheese I went first to the tower and on to the bazaar and a recommended mosque. I'm reminded of a time in Italy after visiting many churches, where I heard an american guy say to his wife, "I think I'm all churched out" well it may be getting to that with me and mosques on this trip, beautiful though they are. Well what stuck with me from the first one today was that the staircase of 14 steps had been carved from a single piece of rock transported from Azerbaijan. The second thing I noticed is a quite well carved grafitti cross on one of the pillars, I won't comment on it's significance.
After this I sat down under a tree to refer to my guide book and a young lady was sitting close by. The lady spoke to me and asked of course where I was from and we chatted, soon her mother arrived and the lady asked if I would like a can of drink. I accepted and as it was cold it was very welcome. I then noticed the lady disappear for a monment and come back with another drink. She had given me her drink and went and bought another. Such kindless really is such a special quality and gave me a lift.
The bazaar was next and a pleasure to walk through. Very little tourist stuff just what the locals want to buy and no hassle. Because it is not a tourist place they were reluctant to haggle, they did, but I had to work harder. I did resist the BMW briefs as a souvenir of the longest distance from home I have ridden this bike, further even than the Gambia, but I did resist, and got myself something more tasteful later in the day. A stop midday for coffee which I was disappointed was only an Americano, but with a bun on the side, and tasted good. There is a significan Shia Muslim shrine in Shiraz one of the most sacred in Iran and I went to visit it next. Non muslims are allowed in with a guide and I met him and a couple of German guys and had the tour. He first took us into the mosque. *I've never been in a mosque while the faithful are praying and it was a powerful experience. The prayers are sung out by an Immam, I assume, and he had a powerful deep clear voice. Very different from the tinny sound you sometimes hear from loudspeakers. I found it sacred in a way, and quite moving. We were told we could take pictures but to me it did not seem right to be sharing what was a private experience for the faithful. We then went to see both mausoleums as there were 2 brothers who were killed on this spot in the 9th century. The rooms surrounding the mausoleums is staggering. Its a large room with a high vaulted ceiling and each inch of surface is covered in tiny mirrors, the size of coins. Each of these tiny pieces have been individually attached. The effect is overwhelming and impossible to photograph. This was all created since he Iranian revolution, so in the last 25 years or so. We were then entertained to tea by the guide and given some details of the site *before being escorted to the exit. The guide was a volunteer and would not accept a tip. As this is an open forum I would appreciate it that any comments be respectful. I did go to visit another mosque but the memorable thing was that a girl in the queue came over with a paper cup and a large bottle of water and gave me a drink while we waited for it to open, a further kindness.
The day ended with a visit to the garden surounding the mausoleum of the poet Hafez. Hardly the sort of place for a fun evening but it was crowded. Hafez is very well respected in Iran and in Shiraz and most houses will have a copy of his work.
There were selfies being take, readings of his work, it was buzzing. I had a meal there, a bowl of soup you could swim in, not the soup which was thick, but the bowl was big enough. I ate half and was full. I was concious that at the table next to me there was some interest in me. Then one of the ladies was encouraged to say hello. Then I had to show pictures of the bike, where had I come from etc. All very entertaining. So glad I came to Shiraz as I was debating it when in Esfahan, but it was worth it. Heading back North tomorrow.
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