Is there anyway for fix the rattle?

Well there's a surprise, they shaft you when you buy one, sell you an inferior product for an exorbitant price, then shaft you again when it goes wrong ! They certainly have their business model well sorted.
 
Well there's a surprise, they shaft you when you buy one, sell you an inferior product for an exorbitant price, then shaft you again when it goes wrong ! They certainly have their business model well sorted.
Please! Of course no other make ever goes wrong and every other brand is so much better, surprising BMW haven't gone bankrupt.

So Triumph never had weak 4th gears on their T595 range and plastic fuel couplings that snapped if you looked at them too hard (ultimately resulting in a recall after years of complaints), all rumour was it? Or the Sprint ST1050 where the rear drop links were subject to a recall as they had some snap which resulted in the rear wheel jamming into the subframe and locking up the rear wheel.
Or the wheel bearings on the single sided swinging arm could seize (my friend's did whilst we were on a trip in France), I know of another person who also had this happen, he wasn't so lucky both he and his wife were thrown down the road when the rear wheel seized. Triumph were crap at dealing with the issues, usually blaming the customer. All bike manufacturers have issues, I've yet to find one that is perfect...
 
Please! Of course no other make ever goes wrong and every other brand is so much better, surprising BMW haven't gone bankrupt.

So Triumph never had weak 4th gears on their T595 range and plastic fuel couplings that snapped if you looked at them too hard (ultimately resulting in a recall after years of complaints), all rumour was it? Or the Sprint ST1050 where the rear drop links were subject to a recall as they had some snap which resulted in the rear wheel jamming into the subframe and locking up the rear wheel.
Or the wheel bearings on the single sided swinging arm could seize (my friend's did whilst we were on a trip in France), I know of another person who also had this happen, he wasn't so lucky both he and his wife were thrown down the road when the rear wheel seized. Triumph were crap at dealing with the issues, usually blaming the customer. All bike manufacturers have issues, I've yet to find one that is perfect...

Yes I agree, but others have one or two problems BMW have a huge and seemingly growing list of faults. Read the posts on here to find out about the latest one of stanchions collapsing! Riders are paying bloody premium prices for an inferior product. Pay 17k for a bike and you wouldn't expect to have your life put at risk with poor quality built DOWN to a price, bikes. Makes me more convinced that i made the correct choice getting shot of my one. Dont get me wrong i enjoyed my two bmws and had no problems (apart from seized alternator) but given what im reading about the huge list of problems it was time to go for a quality Jap machine.


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The Japs don't always get it right, I had a Suzuki GSX, if the chain became a little too slack it hit the clutch push rod, this then damaged the oil seal around it. The seal was fitted from the inside so required the engine to come out and splitting of the gearbox to replace, a huge job just to replace a small oil seal.......just great. Had the moron who designed it made it externally pressed in it would have been a simple job to replace.
 
I took the bike to mechanic who seems to know the 1200 engine fairly well.

He listened to it and said it was the clutch pressure plate. He had RT apart in his garage and showed me the problem. The steel disc in the center become lose and rattle like hell. The one I looked at was doing the same.

Now I just checked the price of a new pressure plate, and its scarry.

Maybe its that. But my clutch was taken out at 50K miles. Apart from being 1/3 worn there was nothing wrong. The gearbox rattled just the same. The input shaft bearing felt smooth and showed no signs of leaking seals.

I've taken out the clutch pushrod and the gearbox rattles just the same. I've even wound self amalgamating tape over the felt groove enough to make the pushrod stick. The rattle stays the same. It's not the pushrod.

My friend's Honda Jazz had a gearbox rattle in neutral that sounded VERY similar. An exchange gearbox solved the noise. The repair firm said it's the input shaft bearing. 11/1200 Fiats used to get the same problem. They got to the point where the input bearings would be changed when a clutch was replaced.

The solution is a replacement gearbox or a rebuild. Knowing BMW the bearings will all be 1mm off standard so only available from them at silly money prices. If the torque shock limiter is worn you may as well skip the whole lot.
 
Maybe its that. But my clutch was taken out at 50K miles. Apart from being 1/3 worn there was nothing wrong. The gearbox rattled just the same. The input shaft bearing felt smooth and showed no signs of leaking seals.

I've taken out the clutch pushrod and the gearbox rattles just the same. I've even wound self amalgamating tape over the felt groove enough to make the pushrod stick. The rattle stays the same. It's not the pushrod.

My friend's Honda Jazz had a gearbox rattle in neutral that sounded VERY similar. An exchange gearbox solved the noise. The repair firm said it's the input shaft bearing. 11/1200 Fiats used to get the same problem. They got to the point where the input bearings would be changed when a clutch was replaced.

The solution is a replacement gearbox or a rebuild. Knowing BMW the bearings will all be 1mm off standard so only available from them at silly money prices. If the torque shock limiter is worn you may as well skip the whole lot.

I agree with you completely. This guy had his mind made up before he even heard it. I started it and the bike was cool. It made a sound but not the loud banging. I rekon the clutch pressure plate is also making sound as well as the input shaft. It did improve with lighter oil for some reason. It also does not make the sound if I engine brake to a set of traffic lights. As if I took the back lash out of it. Weard .

What ever it is, it will have to wait. My wife to be has every penny I make going towards a wedding. Ear plugs are cheap..
 
Mine seems to have developed more driveline backlash, but I know the secondary coils are dodgy which can feel like the same thing.

The clutch is basically a car clutch (the friction plat is almost identical to a VW Beetle). But BMW bike division have to do things their way so designed the transmission with a reverse fitted clutch. On a car the gearbox shaft runs in a needle roller in the end of the crankshaft so it's supported. The clutch is released by a cable and fork or a toroidal slave cylinder that fits around the gearbox shaft. It works and a similar size hydraulic clutch kit for a Fiat 1200 costs £50.

BMW bikes can't do that Oh no. So we have a pushrod and special slave cylinder bolted to the back of the gearbox that doubles as a thrust bearing. The pushrod however can only reach the clutch pressure plate if the gearbox shaft is not supported at the engine end. The clutch is 100% special (costs Megabux) with a designed weak gearbox input shaft.

The excuse is short production run parts, which I would accept for the friction plate (special linings) but discussions on AdvRider say the Sachs plate is almost identical to those sold for VW Beetles at a fraction of the price. The BMW pressure plate costs hundreds.
 


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