Istanbul, down south and back up again

[denny]

Hey guys & gals, thought I’d post a thread on a ride my wife and I took in June from Istanbul – Eskisehir – Cirali – Ayvalik – Istanbul. One week holiday, 3 days riding (the rest was on the beach ) total of approx 2000kms. It was our first proper long ride on the GS, and I'm glad to say she were perfik! All was good except for the heat...didn't drop below 32 until the last leg back into Istanbul.

Here’s the route going clockwise...

First stop near Eskisehir (translates to Old City) for petrol. That nasty looking building is an outlet centre, one of many popping up in random places in Turkey...

We get to Eskisehir late in the afternoon and head for our digs. The city itself was founded by some dudes called Phrygians in 1000BC. Our room for the night was a boutique hotel in traditional wooden houses renovated recently. The neighborhood is called Odunpazari (timber market) and is full of these pretty buidings. Lucky for me I got a trade dicount thanks to pals in the business!

There was a local glass museum/gallery across the street we happened to come across. My only worthwhile picture...

My only thought at this time was food, so we headed to the nearest place that sold the local delight, Cig Borek. It’s really thin pastry with mince meat deep fried for a couple of seconds. Nice!

Random shots taken in and around town...

Here's our room, breakfast was included in the price and was absolutely spot on, perfect fuel for a long days ride!!

Early next day getting ready to go...

Before we leave Eskisehir we pay a visit to the local railways HQ, which is where the first Turkish car was made. It’s pretty damn ugly, but I guess that’s what you get when the govt orders you to make it in 2 months....

My beastie in the car park!

Next up is Cirali/Olympos. I'm awful at this multi picture posting business (got this one down on my third attempt) so for those interested please bear with me.

 

[denny]

The ride to Cirali, Antalya took about 8 hours to cover 600kms. I was pretty tired by the time I got there due to the heat, despite drinking plenty of water on the way. But, that wasn't enough to put me off, as we had arrived at one of my favorite spots in Turkey. Our digs for the next 5 days & the beach...

This was taken a while back when we went with the hairy ones, posting this as I didn't take any of the beach

more later...

 

[DA1ES]

excellent, i'm doing pretty much the same route down in October, from uk to Istanbul to Antalya region, just reading this has got me all again.
undecided as of yet whether to go back same route or go via canakkele which is what im edging towards. look forward to reading the rest of your report. is it a nice scenic route down to Antalya, i'm guessing you have to go through the mountains.

 

[jonny5859]

looking good

 

[denny]

We drive/ride down to Cirali at least once a year, reason being that it is so bloody calm and peaceful there. No loud discos, bars or fools making a racket! No monsterous hotels or buildings spoiling the scenery, just small modest family run pensions. Perfect get away from hectic Istanbul life.

Here’s the wiki blurb….

Çıralı is an agricultural village in the southwest of Turkey in Antalya Province. It is close to the ancient ruins of Olympos and Chimaera permanent gas vents.

It is a very small rural village located just over an hour's drive southwest from Antalya and boasts a beautiful 3.5 km secluded beach, the ruins of Olympos, the flames of the Chimaera / Yanartaş, as well as being a protected area by the WWF for the nesting of Caretta, also known as loggerhead sea turtles.

Also near Çıralı is the Ulupınar region, which is rich in rivers and creeks. Cirali/Çıralı is one of the last unspoilt natural areas along the Antalya coastline.

For the intrepid trekkers, highlights of the Lycian Way with paths are also found in Çıralı. One runs from Çıralı to Tekirova (19 km) and another travels from Çıralı to Ulupınar and then back down to the flames of the Chimaera which is around 12 km. All these trails and paths are marked in red and white.

Another wonderful section of the Lycian Way (Likya Yolu) near Çıralı is the summit of Tahtalı Dag, also known as Mt. Olympos. It is located in the National Park of Olympos or Olimpos Bey Dağları Parkı.

There are no large hotels but numerous small places with accommodation, e.g., family run pensions.

Although close to Olympos it is not possible to drive between the road of Çıralı and the road to Olympos since they are separated by the beach and the ruins of Olympos.

We were a bit late making a reservation and our usual spots were fully booked, so we made do with a friends recommendation, which turned out perfect! http://www.ozgebungalow.com/

Our bungalow…

the gardens…

We occasionally wander off towards Olympos to swim and to get lost among the ruins. A 2.5km walk along the beach and we’re there…

These graves are just off the beach, right at the entrance to the ancient village…

Taken with my back to the beach facing the valley…can just see the creek with fresh water from the mountain. It's fairly shallow but it can get pretty deep in winter.

Opposite direction

Very large entrance, check wifey down below!!

It’s a shame the government doesn’t do enough to preserve and maintain such treasure 

 

[BoRaBoRa]

excellent pics denny, thank you
you've passed so close to my town, see u next time..

 

[Bertau]

Wowser, mate - that trips looks amazing! Your bike looks awesome with all the gear - just what it's made for! Btw, I like the new headlight grill you got on it.

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

Stunning pics......................totally abstract

 

[roadrider]

Excellent, more please.....

 

[denny]

Doh! Forgot to finish this off Will do so tonight

Thanks for the comments guys

Bert!! How's it going?

excellent, i'm doing pretty much the same route down in October, from uk to Istanbul to Antalya region, just reading this has got me all again.
undecided as of yet whether to go back same route or go via canakkele which is what im edging towards. look forward to reading the rest of your report. is it a nice scenic route down to Antalya, i'm guessing you have to go through the mountains.

Sorry for the late response. Riding down to Antalya...yeah you pass three mountain (IIRC) ranges. It's pretty scenic, but not all 750kms will be though

Deffo take another route back if you have time as you'll see more of the country, and if you have time will be able to see some sites on the way....Anzac/Gallipoli/Canakkale being the obvious. I would also suggest going via Oludeniz, the windy coastal road is excellent with small coves that you can duck into for a quick dip & hit the road again. Some spots of interest...Kalkan(for lunch), Kaputas beach, Kas, Kekova. Ahhh I'm missing it already...

http://www.kalkanturkey.com/kalkan-kaputas.htm

Will hopefully be there again soon! Let me know if you need any information, glad to assist

 

[denny]

Right, time to wrap this RR up.

It’s time to hit the road again, 640kms to Ayvalik awaits!! Woke up very early and headed for the beach. Other than the odd drunk passed out on a sun lounger the beach was deserted.

Almost a sunset shot!

This beach is home to the Caretta Caretta logerhead turtles. They roll up in June to lay their eggs, which eventually hatch in August. I was once lucky to witness the wee little feckers making their way down to the sea to lay their eggs. It’s amazing that they come back 20-30 years later to the beach they were born. The WWF has volunteers that are on hand to supervise proceedings. These cages are dotted all over the beach.

Took this a couple of years ago...

Back to the bungalow to get ready. 6am & it’s nice & cool...not for long though!

About 1 hour later we were off. To get out of Cirali you ride 7kms up the mountain, were it gets much hotter. The thermometer was acurate, and I was sweating buckets.

After riding up and down more mountains we stop for breakfast, simple but sweet.

High up in the mountain.

4 or so hours later we get to Denizli, we stop for food just before the city limits...

We get to Ayvalik at about 3pm. Very tired. Go for a meal with my parents & we’re off the next morning. About 500km from Ayvalik to Istanbul. In Ayvalik...

Almost there, about 70km out of Istanbul. 45 minute boat ride from Topcular to Eskihisar (to the right of D575 on the map)...

At the gates...almost ‘officially’ in Istanbul, hit the big five 0 on the way...

Just our luck there was a traditional ‘pick the bride up from home’ party in the street. These are regular events in Turkey, especially during the summer months, so under normal circumstances I can wait, but after 6 hours in the saddle my patience was wearing thin. I kept my cool though as I was slightly outnumbered. And yes I was going the wrong way up the street

Home...

That’s yer lot!! Hope you enjoyed it!

 

[Bertau]

Wowsers, mate, your road trip looks amazing!
Thanks for posting all the pics. They are so inspiring, and really makes me want to load up my GS and head out into the open road. The birds eye view of your bike at the end is peach! - the big panniers and wide fuel tank gives it so much presence. Congrats on completing your first long trip with the misus. Hope we can meet up in Europe before the end of the summer.

 

[ExpatinIstanbul]

Nice report. Ayvalik's one of my favourite weekend away places here.

 

[Micky]

Great piccies, great report .... thanks for sharing

Ridden some of those roads with the 'One More Mile' riders of Istanbul, a lovely country

 

[(RIP) andrewgsadv]

What a fantastic country. Enjoyed your write up and the photos convey how beautiful that part of the country is. Thankyou for taking the time and effort to post.

 

[GS TRV]

Quality stuff

 

[denny]

Just seen your comments...thanks guys Will be on the road again in a couple of weeks, hopefully have another ride report to post