Its hand grenade time folks !! :)))

  • Thread starter Thread starter skywalker
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If you want a quiet engine when your bike is next due an oil change, try using porridge in the sump. Make sure that you use full-fat milk, not the semi-synth with the green tops. Also ensure that you fit a new filter - you won't want any lumpy bits floating round your engine.

And I know this will go against the grain for the lads north of the border, but use sugar, not salt. Salt, of course, will corrode the bores whereas the carbon in the sugar will help seal the rings.

You'll find that about about 1,000 miles of lubricating your engine with pure porridge, it will be absolutely silent.

100% guaranteed!

:rolleyes:

Greg
 
Is this to do with the change to water cooled and in particular to a wet clutch? Fully synthetic can be just too slippery for a wet cluths but this doesnt matter at all for the older dry clutch bikes.

Don't think so - they appear to be keeping the fully-synth recommendations for the current K and S series bikes, which also have water cooling and wet clutches.
 
Kinda reminds of the strap line at the end of that american comedy series "Soap" - "Confused -you will be !! Tune in next week!!"

:thumb2
 
If you want a quiet engine when your bike is next due an oil change, try using porridge in the sump. Make sure that you use full-fat milk, not the semi-synth with the green tops. Also ensure that you fit a new filter - you won't want any lumpy bits floating round your engine.

And I know this will go against the grain for the lads north of the border, but use sugar, not salt. Salt, of course, will corrode the bores whereas the carbon in the sugar will help seal the rings.

You'll find that about about 1,000 miles of lubricating your engine with pure porridge, it will be absolutely silent.

100% guaranteed!

:rolleyes:

Greg

Your gonna be soooooo screwed when someone sues you for taking your advice!!:D
 
According to Bob Marley and the Wailers web site plus sans change??:nenau
 
If you want a quiet engine when your bike is next due an oil change, try using porridge in the sump. Make sure that you use full-fat milk, not the semi-synth with the green tops. Also ensure that you fit a new filter - you won't want any lumpy bits floating round your engine.

And I know this will go against the grain for the lads north of the border, but use sugar, not salt. Salt, of course, will corrode the bores whereas the carbon in the sugar will help seal the rings.

You'll find that about about 1,000 miles of lubricating your engine with pure porridge, it will be absolutely silent.

100% guaranteed!

Greg
:rolleyes:MY Auld granny up on the east coast used to make porridge for the week ahead and it got poured into the porridge drawer --left to cool and a bit was just cut out every morning as required :barf
I was chust wondering dae you recon it would do for grease lube :toungincheek
 
According to their temperature chart the most sensible oil for my situation is 20w/50?? Anybody run this oil? I have only seen it as a mineral oil can you get synthetic in this grade? In France 15/40 seems to be a popular grade in synth and semi at the local stores. I could be wrong but I don't think this motor really needs anything other than a good 20/50 motor oil, any opinions on that?
 
As a relative newcomer to the wonderful world of BMW boxer twins I'm perplexed by this obsession over oil grades. Is there any objective evidence, like full stripdown and dimension and wear checks, that one type or grade of oil is superior to any other?

I don't underestimate the importance of using good quality oil and changing it regularly but is the grade really as critical as suggested by the obsession on this forum? I could understand it better if the discussion concerned FD oil!
 
Don't you think we ought to be discussing oil for the new water-boxer or has that started already?

I use whatever oil Motoscot tell me to use.
 
According to their temperature chart the most sensible oil for my situation is 20w/50?? Anybody run this oil? I have only seen it as a mineral oil can you get synthetic in this grade? In France 15/40 seems to be a popular grade in synth and semi at the local stores. I could be wrong but I don't think this motor really needs anything other than a good 20/50 motor oil, any opinions on that?

Rock oil do a 20/50 full fat oil - they also do an excellent 20/60 full fat. ;)
 
I'm perplexed by this obsession over oil grades. Is there any objective evidence, like full stripdown and dimension and wear checks, that one type or grade of oil is superior to any other?


Don't start telling us now there is something techicial about oil we should know, everyone will start measuring everything.....and that will start a whole new 10 page thread :augie
 
Let it run. It distracts them from asking which helmet is best for their head.
 
Coffee keyboard moment:D:D:D:D:D


David


PS Which gloves would fit me best!
 
I believe much of the recent development in engine oil has been focused on achieving longer service intervals. This might not be too critical for bikes, but car service intervals have probably doubled in the last 15 years, and this reduces servicing costs.

There's also a school of thought that says change the oil frequently and just use anything that meets the relevant API and viscosity standard, so Tesco Value might be fine if you changed it every 3000m

This link gives a useful summary of the API ratings.

http://www.upmpg.com/motor_oil_rate_gas.htm

Some time ago I visited a Tribology lab in Leeds where oils were being tested in single cylinder high speed Diesel engines. I was told that oil development was critical to engine development, particularly operating temperatures and bearing clearances, and that better oil allowed more efficient engines with higher specific outputs. I still can't help thinking that a VFR VTEC engine is more advanced than our boxer twins yet the VFR forum has very little discussion on oil.

Best shut up now.
 


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