After three years of meaning to do this mod, I finally got around to it today.
My 1150GSA lists quite frighteningly on the side-prop (Ohlins fitted from new), worse when it's laden. I've never trusted it to the extent that I had some verbal badinage with one of the staff on the Channel Tunnel once.
My bike has one of those Wunderlich extenders that broadens the footprint. I thought that rather than remove it and drill through the side-prop I might be able to fit the puck to the plate.
First job was to remove the extender-plate. I was a bit worried that it might be a bit gummed-on after three years but it came off nice and easy.
Next job was to offer-up the puck and see which of the four fixing holes could be used.
Once this was decided, I drilled the holes right through the puck.
I intended using three stainless, fine thread, Allen bolts that were three-quarters of the total thickness of the plate and the puck, plus three Nyloc-nuts.
Next I reversed the puck and took a larger drill-bit and opened the holes out to about one third of the depth (from the underside).
The plan being to push the Nyloc-nuts up inside, then the bolts thread onto them and the nuts are protected from scraping (at least until the puck wears down).
I made sure that the holes were opened out just to the size of the nuts. This makes them a push-fit.
To get the nuts into position (if using new Nylocs, thread them the normal way first to cut a thread in the nylon insert), thread them the 'wrong' way onto one of the bolts and push it into the base holes.
The holes in the Wunderlich plate are threaded, either do what I did and use the same thread Allen bolts or drill the thread out.
If the former, then when offering-up the puck, make sure that it's flush up against the extender foot, otherwise the the bolts will draw down to the stop and the puck will be left with a gap between it and the plate.
Check the clearance to the silencer.
I'm pleased with the result. The bike stands-up better, I can easily return the whole thing to original without any holes having been drilled in the side-prop.
The puck was less than a pound.
I should have done this a lot sooner. I might even try using the side-prop on the tunnel crossing later this year.
My 1150GSA lists quite frighteningly on the side-prop (Ohlins fitted from new), worse when it's laden. I've never trusted it to the extent that I had some verbal badinage with one of the staff on the Channel Tunnel once.
My bike has one of those Wunderlich extenders that broadens the footprint. I thought that rather than remove it and drill through the side-prop I might be able to fit the puck to the plate.
First job was to remove the extender-plate. I was a bit worried that it might be a bit gummed-on after three years but it came off nice and easy.
Next job was to offer-up the puck and see which of the four fixing holes could be used.
Once this was decided, I drilled the holes right through the puck.
I intended using three stainless, fine thread, Allen bolts that were three-quarters of the total thickness of the plate and the puck, plus three Nyloc-nuts.
Next I reversed the puck and took a larger drill-bit and opened the holes out to about one third of the depth (from the underside).
The plan being to push the Nyloc-nuts up inside, then the bolts thread onto them and the nuts are protected from scraping (at least until the puck wears down).
I made sure that the holes were opened out just to the size of the nuts. This makes them a push-fit.
To get the nuts into position (if using new Nylocs, thread them the normal way first to cut a thread in the nylon insert), thread them the 'wrong' way onto one of the bolts and push it into the base holes.
The holes in the Wunderlich plate are threaded, either do what I did and use the same thread Allen bolts or drill the thread out.
If the former, then when offering-up the puck, make sure that it's flush up against the extender foot, otherwise the the bolts will draw down to the stop and the puck will be left with a gap between it and the plate.
Check the clearance to the silencer.
I'm pleased with the result. The bike stands-up better, I can easily return the whole thing to original without any holes having been drilled in the side-prop.
The puck was less than a pound.
I should have done this a lot sooner. I might even try using the side-prop on the tunnel crossing later this year.
