Just cut out????

[Rawls]

Guys,

I have just fitted H&B engine bars to my 1150 GS (2000) using the instructions found on this site. No dramas all went smoothly until I went to warm up the bike. I pushed the bike outside the garage and started her up, choke on. I went back in the garage to tidy away the tools etc. after about 10 mins she just cut out, temperature was just up to 2 bars, and now the bike won’t start. Also, when I turn the key the pump does not prime or run. So I must have maybe moved something under the tank nipped a fuel line, I can’t see anything out of place, and I can’t understand why she started and ran to start with if there was a problem, any ideas?

Cheers,

Mike

 

[DrFarkoff]

Guys,
I pushed the bike outside the garage and started her up, choke on. I went back in the garage to tidy away the tools etc. after about 10 mins she just cut out,

Eh Excuse me!! What does it say in the manual????????????

Something along the lines of "Start engine and ride off!"

If the fuel tank connector is okay and not unclipped itself and your cables seated okay at the throttle bodies??

Do a search on "Hall effect sensor"

To Test:----- Bike on centre stand Plugs out and in top gear

Rest plugs in their caps on the eng bars so they can ground out to complete their circuit

Stick a brick in front of front wheel so it can't roll off it

Then rotate the back wheel making sure the side stand is up

you should see sparks at the plugs and hear the pump priming if not then they would seem to be at fault

If you haven't nipped the cables then you probably need new ones

BUt check back with results in case someone else comes up with something

 

[Steptoe]

You left the bike running for 10 minutes with the choke on and now your wondering why its stopped and won't start....

Even though the oil temp was only showing two bars the engine has got seriously hot as you've no airflow over it.

It sounds like the hall/crank sensor wiring may have given up due to the heat, the sensor wiring runs across the engine so absorbs any excess engine heat, even though it has a heat protected cover i doubt it would protect it from an engine left running with the choke on.

Others have done the same thing and have had the oil sight glass melt or have it pop out and the engines have seized.

 

[jonesai]

Definitely not a good idea running an air /oil cooled engine for 10 minutes while stationary. Mind you its so b****y windy and cold here you could probably run it for an hour while stationary and it wouldn't reach 2 bars on the guage.Move to Scotland

 

[sockpuppet]

Random thread hijack....

How long then is it a good idea to use the choke for? Not stationery I mean while riding off.

Use the choke to start, ride off and then after the first mile turn it off. Or just knock it off when you start moving?

 

[DrFarkoff]

Random thread hijack....

How long then is it a good idea to use the choke for? Not stationery I mean while riding off.

Use the choke to start, ride off and then after the first mile turn it off. Or just knock it off when you start moving?

It's not a choke sockpuppet the cold injected engine pumps extra fuel in and to make it burn correctly it needs more air

So the "choke" as you call it is a fast idle lever more than anything

Personally I knock it off as I drive off but pay attention to the revs as you approach the first junction (or corners) If it's Still on your engine braking won't be right and that can get scary!!

If you have knocked it off immediatley you moved off it may run a bit slow at the first junction but then just blip the throttle or hold it slightly open

 

[ELIMINATOR]

I start on fast idle ( not a choke as such is it!), ride off straight away, return lever after about 100 yards, maybe on a -6c day, leave it for about 1/4 of a mile. if it pulls away from idle without , then you don't need it out.

 

[Rawls]

Okay...I take your point about getting too hot, but it may not have been exactly 10 mins but certainly no more, and it was -3 plus win chill, but I shall not leave it ticking over in future.

Back to the problem - I have checked the fuses and the 10v had blown, replaced it and it blew again. I am searching for damaged cables from either pinching or melting from the over heating.

 

[Rawls]

Jaythro/Steptoe,

I have checked the plugs and have a healthy spark, also rotated rear wheel whilst is top gear ignition on and the pump did not energise. The 10amp fuse that is blown is F6 which is fuel pump (I think)

Should I still be looking at hall sensor problems or is this now a fuel pump problem, what should I do next?

Mike

 

[Steptoe]

Jaythro/Steptoe,

I have checked the plugs and have a healthy spark, also rotated rear wheel whilst is top gear ignition on and the pump did not energise. The 10amp fuse that is blown is F6 which is fuel pump (I think)

Should I still be looking at hall sensor problems or is this now a fuel pump problem, what should I do next?

Mike

Fuel pump, or the fuel pump wiring. Check the electrical connection/plug for any corrosion or wiring faults.
Might be stating the obvious. But disconnect the electrical connection and then see if the fuse blows.

If all checks out ok then you'll have to delve into the tank and check the fuel pump.

 

[Rawls]

Fuel pump, or the fuel pump wiring. Check the electrical connection/plug for any corrosion or wiring faults.
Might be stating the obvious. But disconnect the electrical connection and then see if the fuse blows.

If all checks out ok then you'll have to delve into the tank and check the fuel pump.

Steptoe,

I disconnected the wiring block to the pump and the fuse still blew!

Mike

 

[Steptoe]

Steptoe,

I disconnected the wiring block to the pump and the fuse still blew!

Mike

Then It's not the pump.

check/test the wiring to find the short. I suspect in an area that you disturbed prior to the fuse blowing.

 

[Rawls]

Then It's not the pump.

check/test the wiring to find the short. I suspect in an area that you disturbed prior to the fuse blowing.

Found it!

I whipped the tank off to have a good look around, and there it was - I just nipped the cable coming from the other side of the connector when I fixed the centre fixing of the engine bars - couldn't see it properly without the tank off. Replaced the broken cable, new fuse and bingo. Snowing now, so test ride tomorrow maybe.

Thanks to Steptoe and Jaythro for your help and support.

Cheers,

Mike

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

I start engine on fast idle, put out cigarette, put on my lid walking to the gate, push the code, put on gloves on the way back and then just ride off.

 

[Rawls]

I start engine on fast idle, put out cigarette, put on my lid walking to the gate, push the code, put on gloves on the way back and then just ride off.

That's what I'm going to do from now on!!! Without the cigarette bit of course

 

[motobiker]

Every bikes different - I never use the fast idle on mine.. just start it up and ride off. Seems to me the very act of increasing the revs to get the bike moving does exactly the same job as the fast idle.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

That's what I'm going to do from now on!!! Without the cigarette bit of course

I'd prefare the non ciggarette option myself but I'm still working up that.