K25 GSA stalling

[Andy63]

Took my 2006 GSA out today first time in about 10 days was only out for about an hour and half but the bike kept cutting out when accelerating from standing start in first gear.

Seven times in total, the fist time I thought it was just because the engine was cold. but it continued after the engine was up to temperature.
Weather was foggy and damp if that may have been the cause. the bike is always garaged.

Half way through the ride I re did the TPS which helped but it still cut out once more after I reset it.

Any ideas if I should be concerned or what may be about to fail??

It has had a history of cutting for no reason usually while decelerating that seemed to be resolved with a remap about a year ago and since then I have had no issues.

 

[Bendy toy]

Usual suspects are primary coils.
Weak fuel pump will do it. Does it improve with a full fuel tank?
If it's worse when warm consider the crank position sensor.

 

[Andy63]

Its definitely not the fuel pump I had a new one fitted earlier this year on a recall, also filled the tank whilst out today so no if anything it was worse after the fuel up.

I recently changed the throttle heated grip out for a new one, I'm wondering if that may have something to do with it. Although its been fine until today.

Could a flat (ish) battery affect it? I put the bike on charge before I went out and noticed it hadn't fully charged by the time I was ready to go.
Normally the battery is charged within 15 - 20 min with my Ctek, it was still charging after an hour.

 

[Bendy toy]

I guess a bad battery wont help but it would have to be very bad and that wouldn't start the engine. A cheap voltmeter is a always good idea easy to connect and will show you what's going on with the charging system.

Going back to coils how old is the bike? The old black painted coils will fail (they can smell of burnt insulation). When one goes, the other wont be far behind.

 

[Andy63]

2006, 52000 miles on the clock.

Will put a meter on the battery whilst running the engine tomorrow and have a look at the coils.

Thanks for the feed back

 

[Bendy toy]

My 2008 had the old black coils and a stalling problem and eventually a miles per gallon problem. Both coils were on the way out and both stopped altogether within a few miles of each other.

Original coils are £80 each. Anyone who could find a three wire car stick coil to fit would save a fortune.

 

[Arsey]

I suggest pushing it to Motorama and trading it in for a reliable bike.I believe they have one in white/red/blue with your name on it.....

 

[comberjohn]

Mine would faff about when blipping the throttle to change down if the TB's need synced.

 

[Andy63]

I suggest pushing it to Motorama and trading it in for a reliable bike.I believe they have one in white/red/blue with your name on it.....

I have seen a very nice second hand AT in Motorama on my way home from work, they want over £9000 for it, I did give it the once over very nice bike, and yup at the moment more reliable than mine.

 

[Andy63]

Had a look at it this morning tested the battery all fine 12.3 volts engine off 14.4 volts engine running all OK

Re set TPS once more and ran the engine for a short while sitting on the bike I moved the handle bars to the right everything died. moved them back to the left ignition came back on.

It appears there is a broken wire within the main loom directly under the ignition that goes down towards the engine through the steering, that is killing everything.

Looks like a replacement loom off to Motorworks website to price one up. Does any one know how painful this is to replace in terms of work??

 

[comberjohn]

How feasible would be to find the break and repair it rather than, what sounds like, major surgery?

 

[Bendy toy]

A new wiring loom will cost a fortune and be a bitch to fit.
I've just swapped my alternator. Not itself a hard job but unclipping all the wires and moving ECU boxes to gain access too all day.
There cannot be many wires that go around the steering and drive everything. Much better to suss out the wiring diagram and the expose that part of the loom and splice in new wires. Even trial & error there can't be more than 1/2 dozen that can cause the effect. Maybe a lot less.


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[Andy63]

If I knew which cable(s) was faulty yes I could easily run a bypass its just which ones ?? I'm also considering if there are other cables in there also about to break?
I have the wiring diagrams, I am thinking this may be to do with the kill switch but that just breaks the ignition the symptoms I am getting is everything instantly dead no lights on the instrument panel nothing.

Have seen some second hand looms on Ebay, but there is a risk, I have no idea who removed it from the donor bike or how careful they were or (unlikely) if it also has wiring faults.

I'm thinking a proper fix is in order, will price up a new loom (If I can still get one) and make a decision. I guess the cost may spur me to try and repair it.

 

[Greenman14]

I think locally splitting the loom around the steering head to find and repair the damaged wires would be a lot easier than replacing a complete wiring loom. Replacing the whole loom will mean quite a lot of dismantling and after all what do you have to lose?

 

[Pukmeister]

It would most likely be easier and cheaper to pay a bike dealer or vehicle wiring specialist to locate the fault and repair it. Wires are wires.

I seem to recall some issues with ignition switch wiring becoming chafed on a few 1200's due to tight wiring runs and cable ties.

 

[Bendy toy]

It would most likely be easier and cheaper to pay a bike dealer or vehicle wiring specialist to locate the fault and repair it. Wires are wires.

I seem to recall some issues with ignition switch wiring becoming chafed on a few 1200's due to tight wiring runs and cable ties.

I stripped my bike to repaint the front and back subframes the found the loom was very tightly clipped. It went back with additional clips but not pulled up so hard. It's likely that only one wire is causing the problem - main power feed from the ignition switch. Certainly where I would start.

Also look at where the loom runs close to the frame. Mine had rubbed alongside the battery and air box. Not right through (in my case so) I wrapped the flattened area with self amalgamating tape. Another few months and I'd have had a short circuit.

 

[Andy63]

Thanks for all the advice

I'm going to start stripping the panels and tank off sometime this week to have a proper look. Annoyingly I have put 20 litres in the tank on Saturday so that'll be nice and heavy.

Got the price of a new loom £850, Will try and locate the break/short and fix. Taking a close look at the live feed up the frame to see if there are any chafed cabling.

 

[bisbee]

Thanks for all the advice

I'm going to start stripping the panels and tank off sometime this week to have a proper look. Annoyingly I have put 20 litres in the tank on Saturday so that'll be nice and heavy.

Got the price of a new loom £850, Will try and locate the break/short and fix. Taking a close look at the live feed up the frame to see if there are any chafed cabling.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332045781487?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[Pukmeister]

Also look at where the loom runs close to the frame. Mine had rubbed alongside the battery and air box. Not right through (in my case so) I wrapped the flattened area with self amalgamating tape. Another few months and I'd have had a short circuit.

I had the same but wasn't so lucky, the main power feed to the rear esa shock plus the twisted pair from the alarm unit were chafed and badly corroded, requiring me to splice and crimp repair with a section of new wire of the correct gauge and then rewrap the loom.

 

[Andy63]

OK I have stripped the bike back, Tank off and loom carefully freed away from the frame to un-tape the area of the loom where the wiring fault appeared to be.
With the battery connected I was getting usual lights, instruments & ignition powered, with slight movement of the loom it would all go instantly off.

I very carefully stripped back the loom a little further so I could move wires independently however now the bike is totally dead. only thing dissed is the fuel pump.

I have checked all the cables carefully and cannot see or feel any broken or burned cables?

Seeing as the electrical system is CANbus could it be that the ECU is faulty and causing these issues??

If its not, can the ECU block power if it believes there is a fault hence total loss of power???