Keis heated vest

[drinkingparrot]

Just wondered how others have powered theirs, it comes with a lead allready prepared to connect direct to the battery, And it looks like it draws less than 5amps, although the only clue to this is the inline fuse. and so I'm just going to plug it into the auxillary socket under the seat ?**, Any body out there with objections to this or can see a problem with it ?. Cheers

**and before some f/wit jumps in and moves it to another forum, the seat in question is attached to an R1200GS.

 

[elvisncheese]

Done it. No problem.

 

[Rusty Bolts]

I just wired the ring terminals direct to the battery and the lead comes up between the sadle and the tank. I have the furry velcro half on the tank for the tank bag and I stuck a piece of the hook side on the lead to anchor the lead to for when it isnt being used. During the summer (???) I coiled the cable and attached it to the document holder clip thingy above the battery to keep it from spoiling the sleek lines of the bike
Jobs a carrot

 

[(RIP) jings]

ive just bought a kries heated jacket pluged it into the power take off plug and the bike (r1200r) shut down the power to the plug is it ok to wire a second plug straight from the battery via a fuse without causing any problems with the canbus system

 

[morty]

thats what i did jings for my air-pump & it will be used for my heated clothing aswell,no problems wiring direct from batt as long as its fused, also for my flying lead should my fpc pack in. i just heat shrank two lengths of thin wall cable & put a weather grommet over the end of plug holder.buy a decent weatherproof socket or you'll end up wasting your time.

 

[ThorH]

I had the cable for my Gerbin permanently powered. Had green goo build-up.

Found this Fuzeblock to be a perfect solution.

Attached with a velcro, it fits perfectly under the small plastic RH plastic shield. Easy install, and easy to get to in case I ever have to change a fuse or I have to make changes or search a fault.

The ability to change each circuit between switched and permanent power just by moving a fuse is brilliant. I use the GPS connector from the front to control the switching. This keeps the power on for a while after the ignition is turned off, saves my old StreetPilot from restarting all the time.

Highly recommended!

 

[Mr Bean]

+1

Powers gloves and jackets for me and the wife, an aux socket and GPS.

Took the switched feed from the spare original secondary aux socket that wasn't used

 

[Oldrat]

Agreed but,

Plus another supporter of the Fuzeblock, it solves so many switching/canbus issues with farkles, and let's you choose whether they are permenantly on or switched, and easily swapped over.

However...
There is bugger all room under the seat on my 2010 GSA, just enough for the FB to fit comfortably, but not a lot else.

To fit my autocom in, I've had to take a hot air gun to the rear fender, and press a shallow depression, to make extra space for it. I ditched the tray, and velcroed a small aluminium tray which I made up and sits lower than the OE tray, allowing both the autocom and FB to stack easily.

NB, the said fender has a slot for the rubber strap which secures the tray contents. This allows water directly from the wheel straight into this area, so needs a squirt of silicon sealant to keep the kit dry.



I've also got a PMR, which I have had to mount remotely, in a tool tube.