KTM 300 EXC Cutting Out - Difficult to restart. Bogging of idle.

WindyChuffer

WindyChuffer

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Hi guys. Picked up a 2012 300 EXC 2t this week with 400 miles / 25 hours on it. Used it for the first time to day and got a few issues that could do with some pointers on.

Cutting Out
Bike keeps cutting out when engine hot. Won't kick start until I wait for about 5 minutes. Thought I was in for a long walk tonight.....but managed to ride home after a lot of sweaty kick starting.

Bogging
Bike seems to bog a bit off idle, before bursting into life. Its like it's "choking" or "gargling" fuel until the revs rise.

Electric Start
Well that just does not work. Makes the right noises, engages, whirs then it seems like the clutch on the starter motor then causes it to slip.

Could the bike be running rich? No fekkin idea about 2t bikes; this is my first !

Seems to kick first time when cold.

Thx
Mike.
 
First thing I'd check is the plug

It will tell you how rich it's running

Carb needs checking, cleaning and then re-jetting perhaps after a plug chop(s)

2T's need to run hard, no pootling

What mixture are you running, maybe too rich with oil?

Starter - sprag clutch perhaps, not engaging??
 
Fekkin genius as picked up bike from KTM dealer this week. Using their set up and the fuel that came with it.
 
WindyChuffer said:
Fekkin genius as picked up bike from KTM dealer this week. Using their set up and the fuel that came with it.
Click to expand...

Come again....................:confused:

You never said where you bought, did you:rolleyes:

How do you know they have put the right fuel in or set it up right:rolleyes:

If you don't want a few pointers, fine by me fella

Only way to check, is a plug inspection....................for starters

But as you're dealer spoon fed & dunno know what you're doing(last month it was trouble with your rear brake caliper/master cylinder - which was pretty basic stuff)............... then take the fecker back
 
JB - That's all a bit strong mate. We all have to start somewhere and thats what forums are for. I didn't get into bikes until late in life...sorry about that. Learning about spannering as the days roll by. Appreciate your pointers though, which will be acted on. Just need rain to stop and some light (I have to work outside as no garage in London in between child care duties). Will bin the fuel it came with and start afresh, and as you say, take the plug out and go from there.

Just been watching a YouTube vid on jets and needles - a whole new world to me that I never knew existed. Fascinating. All part of life's rich experience I guess. But you have to ask yourself how a small independant dealer can manage to fek it up and not get a bike set up....

(BTW - got the rear brake sorted. Fitted cylinder repair kit, bought syringe, injected fluid, reverse bled it. Chopped bike in for this 2t)


 
As JB says check the plug , easy to foul . The battery on these bikes are not that big and go flat if it does not start straight away . They are often set up wrong at the dealers to pass emmissions , so need a bit of fettling . As above the KTM forum is where you want to be
 
Regarding the starter problem, you really need to research 'Wet Mod' :beerjug:
 
WindyChuffer said:
JB - That's all a bit strong mate. We all have to start somewhere and thats what forums are for. I didn't get into bikes until late in life...sorry about that. Learning about spannering as the days roll by. Appreciate your pointers though, which will be acted on. Just need rain to stop and some light (I have to work outside as no garage in London). Will bin the fuel it came with and start afresh, and as you say, take the plug out and go from there.

Just been watching a YouTube vid on jets and needles - a whole new world to me that I never knew existed. Fascinating. All part of life's rich experience I guess. But you have to ask yourself how a small independant dealer can manage to fek it up and not get a bike set up....


Click to expand...

No worries......................it was your 'fekkin genius' comment, it sounded like you were being sarkey - but maybe not

Everyone has to start somewhere, so lets help

Check out the plug and see if it's oiled up

Start with fresh fuel and good new oil (you may need to experiment with ratios later)

Then check out the carb and jets (as you've found out on the KTM forum)

As you're new to 2t's, they need to be ridden differently by revving out in each gear and not short shifting like a 4t and riding off the bike's torque

Exhaust will also need periodic cleaning out and repacking, becasue it may become clogged with oil

Keep the air filter clean too
 
JohnnyBoxer said:
'fekkin genius'
Click to expand...

As in, I can do without this sh*t right now. When a child gets a new toy, he wants to play with it. When child's new toy breaks, he cries... :-) So the trail riding planned for this weekend on the new toy is canned so my piss is boiling right now. Shit happens; gotta get over it and get spannering it seems.

No worries mate. Things are easily mis-understood on forums.

KTM Forum seems to be posting up loads of suggestions.

Better get my tools out...
 
If your new to 2 strokes are you using the choke properly, mine won't start without when cold, even in summer. Remember to switch it off
 
As its a pretty new bike check its not in a "running in" setup. Take the throttle slide out and look at which notch the needles set then remove the float bowl and look at what size jets its running. Gasgas bikes used to come with a running in set of jets n needle which you swapped out after a couple of tanks and your symptoms sound like that. Other thing worth checking is the reeds in the reed block, just in case they arn't seated right or a petals cracked.
 
Be patient glasshopper, when it is running right you'll be wishing it would bog and stutter :D

Check the air filter hasn't been over oiled :thumb

2 smoke diagnostics always start at the plug, rear wheel fallen out? Check the plug first :D it may sound stupid, but get in the habit of taking the plug out, they are very fickle to temperature/altitude/fuel and oil mixes.

As for elec start :nenau mine was kick only.

Is the bike new?

If not and it's nearly new, it may be choked up because the last owner was too scared to open the throttle. As johnny said, they only run well with regular use of the OMG button. Lack of use will gum it all up and make it run like a pig.
 
Flipfly said:
Be patient glasshopper, when it is running right you'll be wishing it would bog and stutter :D

Check the air filter hasn't been over oiled :thumb

2 smoke diagnostics always start at the plug, rear wheel fallen out? Check the plug first :D it may sound stupid, but get in the habit of taking the plug out, they are very fickle to temperature/altitude/fuel and oil mixes.

As for elec start :nenau mine was kick only.

Is the bike new?

If not and it's nearly new, it may be choked up because the last owner was too scared to open the throttle. As johnny said, they only run well with regular use of the OMG button. Lack of use will gum it all up and make it run like a pig.
Click to expand...

As Phil says - they only run best in yerhaa mode & if the previous owner was a pussy & 'babied' it then it won't be run in properly

Also make sure you warm it up properly first, you don't want to nip it up, with a cold seizure :)

I reckon you'll be back to a 4t in a month or two

2t on the road in winter - mmmm, they don't like temps too cold :)
 
Check the power valve screw hasn't been wound in as well, they have a little brass screw on the right side near the front of the engine which preloads the power valve spring, if its wound right in it'll stop the valve opening which would cause it to be wooly as hell.
 
Hey JB, this is for you:

Managed to get some time to have a look at the bike this morning.

Spark plug is indeed fouled. However new one didn't turn up so unable to proceed with getting engine going. However, I thought I would have a look at the carb. All clean. Got the Main jet (168) and Idle jet (35) out and both clean as a whistle. Needle also clean.

I could not detach the throttle cable from the slide though. Spent 30 mins getting pissed with it and not a chance of it coming off. So could not ascertain needle type or clip position.

Tried to remove carb but failed on that too. Removed clamps (engine side & airbox side) and got the engine side of the carb out of the tube. That was as far as I got. Is it a case of brute force or does the air box need to be removed too?

Idle jet was a bit tricky to remove as I didn't have correct screwdriver. Is there a spec of screwdriver to get?

Thx
Mike.
 
You may need to loosen or remove the subframe bolts to wiggle the carb off & indeed remove the airbox or boot Mike

Have you spoken to the dealer since?
 
Not a bad jet setting that. Just check your air screw is wound out 1 1/2 turns from fully in. I just checked my winter set up for my old gasgas and its 175 main, 45 idle and needle second from top. Your setting sounds lean but if your saying its fouling the plug I'd check its got a clean filter, put in a new plug and try again. If that doesn't cure it I'd start looking at the spark, power valve and reeds.
 
No need to remove air box or loosen subframe, the rubber should pop out of the air box - not strictly necessary, I don't bother but does make it easier. I run with standard jets and needle but moved the circlip up one groove (dropped the needle) and it runs nicely in all weather so far and it's not too bad on fuel, well better than standard groove anyway.
Powervalve spring has never been moved, never felt the need.
I use motorex oil at 60:1, just change the plug and go and give it some stick :)
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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