L.E.D. sidelights failing

[hughguzzi]

Ive got 'bike-vis bullets' (small and very bright led side lights) under the indicators on my 1150gs. Problem is - I'm on the 3rd set !! (and one side just failed again). These have been kindly replaced by bike vis each time because they keep failing but am at a loss to explain why !!?? My son who does led mods on games controllers said he thinks I might need a voltage regulator ?
They are wired in to the side light bulb connectors and have a 1 amp fuse.
Any ideas from you folks ?

 

[rce]

Two option a resistor in series would drop the voltage across the bikevis slightly, so a fraction dimmer but ought to last a lot longer, you would have to calculate the correct resistor (Dan at bikevis may be able to help with a suitable value). Or try a diode in series as they will drop 0.5v across the diode, something like a IN4001 soldered into the feed wire and put in some heat shrink.

           Diode             LED
+  ------->¦---------------->¦-------- 0v

 

[red1]

Isn't this something that should be wired in from the manufacturer? I presume the "amount" of electricity going to the LED's is the same on all bikes?

 

[jimbo]

interesting.
I use Ring LED lights on my GS mounted 'out' on the crash bars to give the bike presence. I've used 2 sorts:

both have a short life and I'm just fitting my 4th set, so don't last much more than a year. Often the plastic in front of the LEDs is starting to melt, maybe the bike regulator lets the Volt go a bit high? As they start fail they behave oddly. one of the lights will come on, but as the revs on the engine build, it'll go out - I guess not liking an increase in Voltage? it won't come back on until the engine is re-started. Eventually it will fail completely.

I've had the same lights on the LT for over a year, without any problems.

At £20-30 a pop its mildly annoying, but people have commented that the odd triangle of light I end up with (with the dipped HID) is quite noticable, so I think the costs is nothing if it prevents one SMIDSY.

Full marks to bike-viz for replacing the problem LEDS - as it might well not be anything to do with his product!

 

[red1]

I thought the whole point of LED's was lower power consumption and longer life. I've seen quotes 10,000 hours for LED's.

 

[rce]

I thought the whole point of LED's was lower power consumption and longer life. I've seen quotes 10,000 hours for LED's.

50000 hours is more typical but that is at the typical forward current, the closer they are driven to the maximum and especially if beyond the shorter the life.

Things like HID headlights, electronic ignition, starter motors all produce electrical noise which can hammer LEDs. Also if the forward current is set to max at 14.7v it wouldn't take much for certain bikes to be pushing beyond the limits of the LED thus shortening the life.

Designers could build the units for say 15v but the LED would be a lot dimmer on older bikes that may only be outputting 13.8v. The life would probably be nearer the 10000 hour mark at this, also adding electronic snubber networks would help but increase the size and cost.

 

[hughguzzi]

Thanks for the comments - Interesting that the ring driving lights also seem to be delicate. The thing is that these bike vis led side lights are designed for bikes, are GS's more voltage spikey than other bikes ? No mention is made on the W.site of unsuitable bikes !!?? I have been starting the bike before switching on the lights. I have also read that the 'triangle' configuration of lights makes you far more visible and gives others a better perception of your speed.

 

[rce]

I had the bikevis ones fail twice on my FZ6, hence made my own from two reg plate LED lights by replacing the circuit to run the LEDs at a slightly lower current.

 

[hughguzzi]

So it seems to be a problem with high voltage surges ? how come cars are being increasingly fitted with LED's - they wouldnt do that if they wern't reliable ! Alan - youv'e got some good tech knowledge way beyond mine ! I'll have to do some more research !!

 

[rce]

The apparently failing LEDs are more likely to be dry joints on the circuit board by your description, because LEDs usually work or fail nothing in between.

Often the cause can be traced to the LED having no support other than the solder joint on the PCB, vibration stresses the joint which eventually separates from the PCB or cracks.

If you can get the ring units apart hot glue guns make a great strengthening for the LEDs. If it is just dry joints then they may be able to be resoldered.

Car units are probably stronger (larger), don't suffer as much vibration and the electrical systems are generally better on a car thanks to the alternator and a large battery, both of which will help provide a more consistent supply.