chrisbart
Registered user
Glynn. if you haven't been yet give me a ring on 01623 648 555 (ask for Chris the Manager,theres four Chris's) and I'll ring ahead and get them to give you some discount!
Lambda Sensor Replacement
- Thread starter GlynnJ
- Start date
. Cost me £40.28 plus VAT.
Fitting it...
Me again.
I just read the fitting instructions and they clearly state that the cables must not be soldered. Instead, Bosch provide a very bulky joining plug that will look really crap, especially as the short length of cable on the new sensor means the plug will be in full view rather than under the tank.
Does anyone know the reason for not soldering? I can't imagine it will no any harm provided the end of cable is a reasonable distance from the sensor. After all, the sensor is attached to the exhaust!
Cheers
GJ
Me again.
I just read the fitting instructions and they clearly state that the cables must not be soldered. Instead, Bosch provide a very bulky joining plug that will look really crap, especially as the short length of cable on the new sensor means the plug will be in full view rather than under the tank.
Does anyone know the reason for not soldering? I can't imagine it will no any harm provided the end of cable is a reasonable distance from the sensor. After all, the sensor is attached to the exhaust!
Cheers
GJ
Catalysts get hot, and there is a lot of thermal cycling, so it's a very hostile environment.
Catalysts need over 600 degrees Fahrenheit to work, which is over 300 centigrade, and soldering iron tips heat to around 270 degrees centigrade, but solder itself tends to melt at around 190 centigrade. It's likely that any connections directly on the sensor would melt off before the cat even got fully up to working temperature.
Another issue with soldering is that the solder wicks up into the cable itself making it brittle and prone to failing after a few thousand miles of engine vibes - this is why most automotive cables are crimped. So, even if the join is far enough back from the sensor that heat isn't a problem, this is probably what they are referring to.
Catalysts need over 600 degrees Fahrenheit to work, which is over 300 centigrade, and soldering iron tips heat to around 270 degrees centigrade, but solder itself tends to melt at around 190 centigrade. It's likely that any connections directly on the sensor would melt off before the cat even got fully up to working temperature.
Another issue with soldering is that the solder wicks up into the cable itself making it brittle and prone to failing after a few thousand miles of engine vibes - this is why most automotive cables are crimped. So, even if the join is far enough back from the sensor that heat isn't a problem, this is probably what they are referring to.
The recommendation against soldering sounds like a reliability issue, from your description.
If the cables are going to be tucked out of the way, I'd personally solder the wires, very carefully, using the minimum amount of solder for a good join, and I'd use heatshrink to keep it neat. Cable-tying to something solid, either side of the join should give you enough strain relief and you'll probably have a more reliable connection than the one with the connector at the end of it.
I might also put a wrap of self-amalgamating tape round the lot if it was likely to get wet.
If the cables are going to be tucked out of the way, I'd personally solder the wires, very carefully, using the minimum amount of solder for a good join, and I'd use heatshrink to keep it neat. Cable-tying to something solid, either side of the join should give you enough strain relief and you'll probably have a more reliable connection than the one with the connector at the end of it.
I might also put a wrap of self-amalgamating tape round the lot if it was likely to get wet.
I decided on the Teutonic approach and used the Bosch connector. It may be big, but the cable connectors are very well sealed so at least it is waterproof. I just managed to get it under the bottom edge of the tank so it is more or less out of sight.
Job done
Looking forward to better MPG.
Job done
Looking forward to better MPG.
Bosch were staunchly against the use of Universal sensors when companies like the one I work for launched them over 8 years ago. They basically came up with technical arguments why you shouldn't use the crimp or solder style of repalcement. What you should really do in their opinion is to spend a large amount of money on the direct replacement from them or the vehicle manufacturer (their product again of course but in a BM box as opposed to a Bosch one).
However once Bosch realised that the universal sensors were taking the lions share of the repalcement market they wanted some of it but were stuck with the non soldering or crimping line they'd been peddaling. So they devised the ugly and cumbersome make up your connector route which i personally think is a bit of a joke.
Soldering or even crimping done properly and then sealed with heat shrink tubing works fine and don't let anyone tell you it doesn't.
Bosch (and their not alone) have devised all sorts of technical arguments to rubbish aftermarket products and persaude you to buy theirs. There is of course plenty of poor quality aftermarket product out there and gives our industry a bad name, particularly since china geared up for automotive parts. However their is also plenty of produt of matching OE quality available. The difficulty for the consumer is determining between the two.
However once Bosch realised that the universal sensors were taking the lions share of the repalcement market they wanted some of it but were stuck with the non soldering or crimping line they'd been peddaling. So they devised the ugly and cumbersome make up your connector route which i personally think is a bit of a joke.
Soldering or even crimping done properly and then sealed with heat shrink tubing works fine and don't let anyone tell you it doesn't.
Bosch (and their not alone) have devised all sorts of technical arguments to rubbish aftermarket products and persaude you to buy theirs. There is of course plenty of poor quality aftermarket product out there and gives our industry a bad name, particularly since china geared up for automotive parts. However their is also plenty of produt of matching OE quality available. The difficulty for the consumer is determining between the two.
Burfcontrol
Registered user
Chris, Rich
I live in Kent and have a 2000 1150 which died on Feb-28, I've been away since then - I been in China me
) - and am only now looking to put it right. Is there a simple (or complicated!!) test to check if it is the Lambda/fuel contamination problem?
I did use Tesco fuel, I alternate between Tesco and Shell, did about 100 miles after filling up with Tesco, previous tank had been regular shell. I was riding home from work on the motorway, steady speed and it just died, as if I'd run out of fuel. Wouldn't even fire when trying to restart. All electrics worked OK.
If it is Lambda, do either of you guys have an outlet in the South East?
Cheers Jim
I live in Kent and have a 2000 1150 which died on Feb-28, I've been away since then - I been in China me
) - and am only now looking to put it right. Is there a simple (or complicated!!) test to check if it is the Lambda/fuel contamination problem?I did use Tesco fuel, I alternate between Tesco and Shell, did about 100 miles after filling up with Tesco, previous tank had been regular shell. I was riding home from work on the motorway, steady speed and it just died, as if I'd run out of fuel. Wouldn't even fire when trying to restart. All electrics worked OK.
If it is Lambda, do either of you guys have an outlet in the South East?
Cheers Jim
Chris, Rich
I live in Kent and have a 2000 1150 which died on Feb-28, I've been away since then - I been in China me
I did use Tesco fuel, I alternate between Tesco and Shell, did about 100 miles after filling up with Tesco, previous tank had been regular shell. I was riding home from work on the motorway, steady speed and it just died, as if I'd run out of fuel. Wouldn't even fire when trying to restart. All electrics worked OK.
If it is Lambda, do either of you guys have an outlet in the South East?
Cheers Jim
Jim
A failed Lambda will not stop a bike or car running. Normally the engine management system would go into 'limp home' mode if the lambda failed. It would though still run. A failing lambda would make the engine run either rich or lean.
Testing lambdas at home can be done by putting a digital multimeter on the signal wire (the black one) to see if it is switching when it gets up to operating temperature. Beyond that you need a 4 gas analyser and ideally a scope but it's probably easier to just stick a new one in if it's got to this stage. Anyway that's probably not the problem you've got and this really is the limits of my technical understanding.
R
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