Lashing an RT onto a Motolug trailer

[Deleted account 260111001]

So the manual says you should lash the front forks (forward) and the rear footpegs rail (lash backward).

Motolug (thinking of getting one) have a central lashing point on the axle, which means the front forks would be lashed backwards, and the foot pegs would be lashed forward.

Anyone have any suggestions ? when I contacted Motolug, they just send be a photo of a GS

Whilst I'm not new to towing cars and heavy stuff, I don't want to co&k things up and break the bike or loose it.

Anyone used an RT with Motolug?


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[IJGser]

As a general rule you should be pulling it down and in opposite directions (from each end)
This is the loading principle behind everything from bikes to tanks. I load big stuff and the other thing I like to do is think if I turned this trailer upside down would the load stay put.
The picture is a fine example that I'm sure you could copy on a different bike.

Some of my work


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[IJGser]

Also there is no need for heavy duty ratchet straps. Just take some travel out of the suspension (down force) but don't go crazy. A few years back I delivered brand new bikes and they managed ok traveling from Japan etc with 4 friction type pull straps holding them in the stillage.


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[steadysteve]

Not shifted an RT on a trailer but recently carried a GS - Same type of wheelchock at the front of the trailer. One strap from each pillion footrest which pulled downwards and slightly backwards, another strap over the telelever down to the 'A' frame to stop the bike riding upwards in a crash or emergency stop.

Also carried a VFR the same way but it was more fiddly threading the front strap up through the cables and brake pipes to get a clear run onto the fork yokes.
Neither bike moved an inch.
Stop and check the straps after the first few miles.

 

[Nice 'n' Fat]

You don't want to go mental when strapping a bike on to a Motolug

The front wheel chock will hold the bike stable and the retaining straps only need a gentle tug to secure the bike. I would suggest you don't use ratchet straps as these could overstress the trailer lashing points

I've carried all sorts on mine from KTM off roaders up to loaded GSA's strapping the bike down in the way that Motolug advise

 

[Deleted account 260111001]

Thanks for the replies, the trailer should be ready from the 27th and I'm planning a trip to Manchester at the end of May. I've gone for the 10inch wheels to get it level behind my VW pickup.
I can now take the bike for a few extra days of nice northern roads after work.


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[Greg Masters]

The Motolug trailer itself needs some tension to take all the play out of the assembly joints. You don't need the straps too tight, but they have to be tight enough to ensure that the trailer/bike is a single composite unit.

For this reason, you should never tow a Motolug without a bike on it - it will shake itself to bits.

 

[Nice 'n' Fat]

I've gone for the 10inch wheels to get it level behind my VW pickup.

I've got 10 inch wheels on mine. You can get the bed of the trailer level by adjusting the angle of the hitch up/down when attached to the tow ball

 

[Kritou]

Don't be tempted to use the rear rack as a lashing point. Straps will almost instantly wear through the silver paint to the grey plastic underneath ....... DAMHIK

 

[Fanum]

Do NOT use hooks.......as in the hook ends that often come with lighter ratchet straps.

Get some carabiners and insert them through the loops at the ends of the straps, cutting out hooks if necessary.

It's easy, even with a well lashed down bike, to get an inch and a half of bounce or flex, and that's plenty for a hook to drop free from whatever hole it's in.....DAMHIK

A carabiner will not come undone or drop out of the hole, so they are FAR safer......if you can't get them, make the straps into complete loops (IE it goes from itself, through the trailer holes, around a part of the bike then tightens back onto itself)

If you're only doing a short or average journey, you can lash to the bike above the suspension so you're pulling it down on the shocks, but anything over a few hours, either block the suspension so you're not running with the shocks fully compressed (and therefore with the fluids/gases all under pressure)

Don't go over soft material (EG saddle) with a strap.....it will wear and rough up the surface.
Don't pull any frame elements in a direction they are not meant to be pulled in.......EG Foot rest hangers are hugely strong in the directions that a fat fukker sitting or standing on them might exert, but they will flex INWARDS easily and are not designed for that.

I always use two straps pulling backwards, two straps pulling forwards and I usually use a single strap from the fork brace to the tow hitch because I unload/load on my own.

Start driving, but stop after 2 miles (ish) and go wobble everything to make sure it hasn't settled and come loose



BMW Thumb cam straps are more than adequate for purpose if you have them.....ratchets can get jammed and are a faff......I started off with them but migrated to thumb can straps when I could obtain enough

 

[Shunt]

Endless ratchet straps work really well. No way the can flick off a lashing point.

I prefer a ratchet strap personally. Just more secure but no need to go to town tightening them too tight. Just enough to compress the suspension but not bottom it out.

 

[dmilne]

I put a strap through the front axle to hold it down then it can't go forward..

I use two ratchet straps, one each side of the rear wheel, the other ends pull forward and down to the holes in the bottom of the main spar/trough. Pass the hook through the spokes and lay it on the top of the tyre. Now loop the strap through the hook and tighten it.

Back wheel won't go any where now.

A couple of ropes/straps to the footpeg hangers or pillion grabs to stop it leaning, other ends to the holes on the bracket inboard of the wheels. The holes are sharp - file them down or use a steel ring -not a hook, it'll come off over the first bump. I know that.

A tip. When you tilt the trailer to load the bike, don't let the back end touch the floor. If you do, when the weight of the bike's on the trailer, the back will be firmly against the floor and you won't be able to release the two tilt pins... I know that..

They're good, the RT and the trailer

Here's the idea of the straps, I looped them round twice I see. They don't slip and you don't have to worry about the squashing the suspension.

Rgds

Dave

 

[steadysteve]

I put a strap through the front axle to hold it down then it can't go forward..

I use two ratchet straps, one each side of the rear wheel, the other ends pull forward and down to the holes in the bottom of the main spar/trough. Pass the hook through the spokes and lay it on the top of the tyre. Now loop the strap through the hook and tighten it.

Back wheel won't go any where now.

A couple of ropes/straps to the footpeg hangers or pillion grabs to stop it leaning, other ends to the holes on the bracket inboard of the wheels. The holes are sharp - file them down or use a steel ring -not a hook, it'll come off over the first bump. I know that.

A tip. When you tilt the trailer to load the bike, don't let the back end touch the floor. If you do, when the weight of the bike's on the trailer, the back will be firmly against the floor and you won't be able to release the two tilt pins... I know that..

They're good, the RT and the trailer

Here's the idea of the straps, I looped them round twice I see. They don't slip and you don't have to worry about the squashing the suspension.

Rgds

Dave

Good idea that- I remember a couple of occasions on the motorway when a big bump caused the bike suspension to compress causing the straps on the footpegs to go slack briefly. The hooks stayed on luckily. I think you can buy a strap with two or three bands that go over the tyre and ratchet down, meaning the suspension can do it's own thing without affecting the straps.
IMO you still need something to stop it flying forward in any sort of harsh braking or accident so maybe a couple of straps on the footpegs also?

 

[dicktheleg]

I usually zip tie the ratchet strap ends to the bike and trailer, that way if they do temporarily go slack they're still retained.

 

[Fanum]

I've extended the axle on my Motolug......much thicker section walls to cope with the extra stress but out to the track width of a Landrover.
I also made some thicker steel plates where the holes are on the stub axles for stringing straps to, and I replaced the towing neck with something a little tougher as well.

Trigger's trailer

It's up at Gert's shed, stripped and primered but I never got around to painting it up......we did shift his Harley and my 1150 around on it a few times though, and it towed really well....better than originally in fact, although the beam axle is too long for a car boot now.

(I practically wore it out using it for recovery in Morocco.....all the holes that the assembly pins go through went oval and the neck section actually snapped during a recovery on the track to Foum Zguid )