I get on the road at exactly 1100 - check-out time. The Travel Inn looks a little rough and ready from the outside, but the room was huge and spotless, the bed very comfortable and the AC works - definitely an upvote.
It's unusually a cool day - about 60F - but that's no bad thing. I head out of Tonapah, passing a sign warning that the next gas is 100 miles. I set a cruise at about 75mph (it's a 70 limit) and watch the miles tick down.
Today's ride isn't going to be infected by too much scenery...
I notice something
really bright a few miles off to my right...
Here's another pic. I
think it's a
solar furnace - and a quick Google search at the end of the day suggests I'm right...
The hills on the horizon appear out of the haze...
There are lots of clouds about - a combination of which, with hills, never ends well...
I get to the end of Bettie's 100-mile leg in the dusty town of Hawthorne. There is some form of Army munitions unit here, and oddly configured buildings dot the landscape...
I decide it's time for a break. No sign of any small diners, so I stop at...
...the El Capitan Casino (everywhere is a casino in Nevada)...
I walk in and am immediately hit by the smell of tobacco smoke - in Nevada, smoking is permitted anywhere food is not being served...
I find my way to the restaurant area - which doesn't have doors closing it off from the slots - and order a Cobb Salad and sweet tea, as they didn't have lemonade...
I'd parked the bike quite confidently and was thinking that I may be able to put this funk and lack of confidence behind me...
I get the bike off the stand, and - a bit shakily - get on it and follow Bettie's directions out of town.
There is a roadside museum of sorts, obviously playing to the Army camp that appears to be the sole source of income for the town...
It has lots of exhibits...
A little further up the road is this venerable old lady...
...fenced off to keep her safe. Any guesses for make/model/year?
I follow Bettie's directions towards Reno - about 140 miles away - and wonder what transgression some poor soldier would have to be caught doing to secure a tour here. One hundred miles from
Tonapah - itself hardly a sink of bohemian depravity...
I almost pulled off the road to take a pic here - and if I had, I would have a pic of a Cessna following the edge of the water, a few feet above the level of the road...
Leaving the lake behind, we're soon back in the long. lonely highways which Nevada loves to make - and at a very civilised 70mph limit...
Things start getting interesting on the horizon...
In fact, they look like hell on toast...
I stop at a Dairy Queen - and very nearly drop the bike getting off. Luckily a chap getting out of his car behind me helped me stop it from going over. I manage to tweak a few muscles in my back and shoulders...
Anyway, I order a lemonade and - in honour of @GSgal, A Peanut Butter Parfait - as it was her favourite...
I get back to the bike - and coopt the help of a kind chap to spot me whilst I get back on.
All the confidence I had felt earlier today has deserted me - I actually feel shaky and I'm dreading the rest of the ride to Reno.
Sorry for the shaky pic - just moving off from a red light. There's a Naval Air Station at Fallon, NV - any guesses for make and model?
Weird number plate and surround - Military Police?
But there's more!
As I follow Bettie's directions toward Reno on Highway 50, I run into a sharp squall - with a vicious gusty wind from the right. I maintain my speed, but passing box trucks is an exercise in coordination, as the bike is whipped one way and then another, as you come out of the truck's lee side...
The rain comes quickly - cold, sharp, and light, but enough to chill me. I'm doing all the relaxation techniques taught me at Driving School, but
cannot relax my jaw and shoulders. Both shoulders and my jaw ache as I type this a couple of hours later...
There is a relatively dry spell, then a steady drizzle starts to fall as I enter the urban freeway at Sparks. This is during a stop-and-go traffic snarl - rush hour.
I am looking at the next turn Bettie has for me - and realise I have put Reno Airport in as the destination, not the hotel.
Nine miles later, I pull in front of the hotel, at the same time as a chap in a pick-up truck. I ask for his help, which he cheerfully gives.
I check in for two nights.
I am done.
I will arrange to get the bike to Portland (likely via U-Haul or similar). If I try to keep riding I will either wreck the bike, injure myself, or both - my confidence is completely gone...
I call Jorge and tell him of my decision - I don't think he was surprised - he only wants what's best for me. We agree to talk over options in the morning...