Laying up my GSA - Advice, please.

[TomP]

I’ve had a quick search around the forum for advice on best practice regarding laying up a GSA for a while, but didn’t find anything, so, here comes my request:

For health reasons, I’ve had to surrender my driving licence to the DVLA while I undergo hospital tests. Minimum period off the road looks like being six months, although we’re already two months in to that. Might become a year, however.

I have a 2015 plate GSA and another big BMW, and I’d appreciate some advice on what’s good, and what’s not, for keeping them in good fettle until I’m on the road once more.

Both bikes are going to be SORNed and both MOTs expire in about a month.

Currently, I am starting them up once a week. I run the GSA to 70 degrees engine temperature. I have a drive to my garage that’s about 30 metres long, so they also get a couple of runs up that each time.

What else is recommended good practice, please folks?

Thanks.

Tom

 

[leadfarmer]

To be honest I’d just put a battery tender on every few weeks, leave them on their center stands, then just check your fluids and tyres when you put them back on the road

That’s all I do with mine over winter

 

[Yorkshire Twat]

If extended length of time stationary maybe consider keeping both tyres of the floor especially if floor concrete

 

[shifty]

if it was me i would put in some fuel stabiliser such as silkolene pro fst ( fuel system treatment) and fill up with super unleaded ,run the bike up to temp a couple of times to circulate the fst with the fresh fuel then as mentioned above bike on centerstand and on a optimate or simular , also if its been a while since last oil change maybe put some fresh oil in aswell,, then all should be well come start up, might be worth giving it a coating of acf50 aswell.

 

[Smithmas]

I can't answer the bike question Tom, but wishing you all the best on your health. I genuinely hope nothing too bad pal

 

[TomP]

Thanks. The story is in the Health and Wellbeing section of this forum.

Tom

I can't answer the bike question Tom, but wishing you all the best on your health. I genuinely hope nothing too bad pal

 

[malcopopolo]

i personally would not start the bike every week.
Once every 6 weeks is fine and then i would turn the engine over with the kill switch on if possible to lubricate the engine slowly.

Each to their own but i do know that engine damage occurs when you 1st start the engine so keeping this minimal is better.

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

I never start the engines over winter
I just park up at end of October and then bring them out in March or April
Never once fire them up in 6 months...recipe for disaster

 

[Alan R]

I never start the engines over winter
I just park up at end of October and then bring them out in March or April
Never once fire them up in 6 months...recipe for disaster

This. Imagine the start up regime at each and every dealership if all bikes in stock had to be run up to 70degrees each week! By all means protect the bike from condensation and dust while in storage and put the battery on a suitable trickle charger. Other than that make sure no one forgets that there’s a bike under the cover and piles garage junk on it.
Alan R

 

[hawkeye]

Agreed, don't start the bike at all, just leave on an optimate until you want to start using it, you'll do more damage than good keep starting it and running up to temperature.
From experience:
- put battery on charger/optimate
- change oil (that might seem strange leaving fresh oil in the sump, but "used" oil contains contaminates)
- put carpet under front tyre (if concrete floor)
- fuel stabiliser in petrol tank
- cover with a cotton sheet

 

[littleade]

I don't start mine either and as we're in e10 territory I shall put fuel stabiliser in mine too this winter, I clean and spray it with a sealant before it's put away, plug the optimate in and cover it up plus as my garage gets condensation in it as we keep the cars in there too I also spray mine with FS365.

 

[MarkShelley]

Filling tank is most important in my opinion, to prevent tank rusting.

 

[Bem]

Filling tank is most important in my opinion, to prevent tank rusting.

However, plastic is the preferred material for 1200 tanks......

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

I don’t plug the bike into a trickle charger either, all winter

3-4 days every 21 days is sufficient

 

[Micko123]

As mentioned in a previous post fill your tank with Esso super unleaded Synergy Supreme+ 99 as it is Ethanol free (unless obtained from Cornwall, Devon, North Wales, Scotland and Newcastle area), even though it says E5 on the pump. Ethanol is hygroscopic and absorbs water, and also add fuel stabilizer too.

Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk

 

[leadfarmer]

Just for info we’ve had E10 since 2009 and my bikes have always survived winters without any problems

They do seem to run a tad smoother with E5 but not all petrol stations have it so they get what’s on offer

 

[tanneman]

I preserved a few aircraft back in the day.

A proper wash and polish. Blow off all the water.
Spread the brake pads away from the discs.
Fill the fuel tank and add fuel stabiliser as mentioned above.
You can coat the bike or components that will corrode with a light oil, like WD40.
Over inflate the tyres and keep it off a cold floor or cement. Propping the bike up to lift the tyres off the floor is better.
Cover the bike, that will keep dust off it and block the air intakes with a oil soaked sponge (it will keep mice away hopefully).
Heat the storage space (if you have the means) which is easier than dehumidifying it.
You can leave a trickle charger on the battery but, this is the important bit, the trickle charger must have the ability to condition the battery and to stop charging once the battery capacity is reached. I use CTEK because it can condition various batteries. Beware of lead acid batteries being constantly charged. No harm in trickle charging it from time to time. You can also remove the battery and store it somewhere dry and in mild temperatures resting it on a piece of wood or plastic.

Recommissioning.

The reverse of the above basically.
Check the bike over, remove panels if need be to check if any mice has made a nest or chewed any wiring.
A wash and polish.
Pump the brakes because the pads will be off the discs, brake fluid change is recommended after a lay up over winter.
Check tyre pressures.
Check the oil and fuel is good.
Replace the battery (charge it beforehand or use a new battery) if you have removed it (the LC requires the satnav to set the time on the LCD ie instrument display or do it manually)
Turn the key, fuel pump and the exhaust actuator should run.
Check the lights.
Start the bike and let it idle a bit to circulate the oil.

Go for a ride. However it might feel strange to ride after all the time off the bike so start at the basics of riding (machine control at slow speed and observation) and build up your confidence.

 

[y2blade]

Fresh fuel (I won't add to the E10 v E5 debate, it's been done to death)
bike on Centre stand or as upright as possible
spray as directed with ACF50 or similar
cover with cotton sheet
don't keep starting/running/turning it over
keep the tires firm
take the battery indoors in the warm or plug in a battery tender
when ready to get it back on the road change the oil before touching the starter button

That'll be good for 6-12 months...any longer than that, if you can drain the fuel and refill fresh every 12months

I hope you get well soon Tom
look after yourself buddy

 

[mikeyboy]

I’d consider selling the GSA,
Used prices seem to be high,
Save the hassle.
Treat yourself to a new one when you get your licence back.
If the market returns to more normal prices you could upgrade to a newer machine

 

[autogs]

I’d consider selling the GSA,
Used prices seem to be high,
Save the hassle.
Treat yourself to a new one when you get your licence back.
If the market returns to more normal prices you could upgrade to a newer machine

this all day long as the market stands