LED ABS code, no flashes!

Hux

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Hi All,

I have the 'standard' ABS warning lights on once I have pulled away on my 2000 R1150GS. I have stripped and cleaned the plungers and checked the sensor gaps, new brake fluid and hit everything twice with a hammer but it hasn't fixed it. I have just tried attaching an LED to pin 2 on the diagnostic socket and it just stays on, no flashes to count. Any ideas what this means? Thanks Marc
 
Nah!

Your going to have to give a bit more information than that.

Like do you get the clunk when pulling away. Are the lights on permanently, flashing, when does it occur, etc. Like talk through the sequence from ignition on to pulling away.

Read this: yours is ABS2

http://www.largiader.com/abs/absfault.html

Ian:thumb2
 
If after you turn on ignition, both lights are on permanently and don't flash.
If you don't get the clunk when pulling away.
If a reset doesn't work.
If you get no output from your LED.

Then it points to the ABS module itself.

If you think this is the problem, then all you can do is check the wiring and power to it.

If you pull the large black connector off it you can do some power checks at the connector.

Pin 14 is power all the time from Battery ( no fuses in the line )
Pin 15 is switched power from the ignition switch ( no fuses in the line )
Pins 1, 2 and 22 all connect to ground.

If all of that is OK, and there is no corrosion on the contacts, then it kind of looks like the ABS module is toast.
 
Thanks for the replies, full details are:

I bought the bike with the alternating flashing ABS warning lights on the dash.

Carried out a reset.

Lights are normal when the ignition is turned on and when the bike is started.

Pull away and get the loud clunk then the ABS lights flash alternately.

I stripped the ABS plungers, changed the fluid and bled the system (ABS and calipers).

Reset the ABS, same thing happened.

Connected an LED to pin 2 as per the instructions on line and turned the ignition on, no flashes just a steady LED.
 
Just spoken to my local dealer and they want £76 plus VAT just to read the fault code! However he did say that a common fault is that the fluid reservoir level inside the ABS unit can be low but didn't know how to top it up............. I had assumed that bleeding it through would also fill up the reservoir but is there more to it than that?
 
Ok.

It could be your Battery.
Try doing a rolling restart as per the paragraph in the attachment. If it works, then it points to low battery voltage below ABS optimum. There is a mod you can do to cure this.

Brake fluid, there are two bleed nipples on top of the ABS Modulator, one for each circuit, just bleed them as normal. Ie crack them open and pump from the corresponding reservoir, just like you would at the calipers.

I think your dealer is talking bollocks, he's confusing your system with the ABS3 or IABS or Servo which ever you want to call it. Your system could have air in the modulator, which is why there two bleed nipples on the top. but it is unlikely to cause the problem you have.
 
You might be confused, so let me explain.

the ABS2 (Your system) has the modular inline with the brake circuit. so when you operate either lever, the fluid pressure passes down the line through the modulator to the caliper. Normally when you bleed the brakes air gets pushed out. However, because the modular sits higher than the brake calipers, and the foot brake reservoir it is possible for air to collect in the top of the modulator and not be expelled, hence they placed two bleed nipples on the top of the modulator so you can push the air out.
 
I'm fairly sure it isn't the battery, it is on a battery conditioner and comes up all green lights, plus the lights only start to flash after I have ridden off. I've bled the system at all bleed points. What I really need is to be able to read the fault codes!
 
Don't assume it isn't the Battery. The voltage to the ABS is critical to it functioning correctly. Once you start the bike,the battery voltage could be below ABS minimum due to the current draw of the starter motor.

Do the Rolling start, which will cut out the starter motor.
 
Ok, I will try it but if I start the bike and leave it ticking over for a while the lights stay out. From reading other topics on this subject they suggest that if it was the battery it would prompt the fault before riding off. Or is that not the case?
 
I don't, unless it's a fault with the Control module.

Out of curiosity what happens if you press the abs button?
 
Nothing changes in respect to the LED, it just stays on. But it works for the reset procedure. I really don't want to pay £90 for someone to take the seats off and plug in a computer :-(
 
Haven't tried that with the LED, to be honest I can't recall anything in particular happening with the ABS warning lights either but I'll try it tonight. I'll try and check the ABS sensor readings as well. I think it's either one of them or the modulator..............
 
No flashing LED could be you do not have a fault with the ABS.

I'm trying to remember, but it was a long time ago, but after riding off and getting the clunk. I pressed the brakes and got the flashing lights. Pressed the ABS button the ABS light extinguished, but the General warning light stayed on.

Turned out to be the Brake light filament.:nenau
 
The lights come on in time with the loud clunk but I'll check the brake light circuit out as well.
 
Blown rear brake light etc relates only to the late 2002 servo 1150's I believe.
You say the bike starts fine and its only as you pull away you get the abs faulting. Your battery is therefore doing its job as a poor battery will put the abs lights into fault mode when you are cranking it due to excessive volts drop.
Check the front and rear wheel sensors gap and the toothed abs ring. I seem to recall a dodgy sensor itself will cause a falt as soon as you switch on
Sorry, I dont know what no led flashes means. :-(
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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