Liquid Metal

Devcon or Belzona are the best :rob

if there are traces of oil or grease on what you are trying to repair - you'll need some acetone too.

Al :thumb2
 
Only ever used Devcon and it has always worked great. I repaired a gearbox case once and it never failed again.
 
Do you think the liquids are better than the putty?

I'm just looking for something to throw in a bag when off roading in case I break something.
 
Do you think the liquids are better than the putty?

I'm just looking for something to throw in a bag when off roading in case I break something.

i've found the putty to be most use and i've put it to some obtuse uses!
carry some on the Guzzi all the time. (though never had to use it at the roadside, thankfully.)
St. Eptoe suggested some time ago that an epoxy mixed with cotton wool (i think) is the business after putting a hole in a rocker cover. i'm sure it would cover a multitude of 'errors'. :thumb2
 
And a small bottle of nail varnish remover for the acetone?

Or does it no longer contain acetone - any chemists about? :nenau

Mike

Many still contain acetone but with skin conditioning ingredients. My reasoning for buying pure Acetone on E-Bay...
 
I'm liking the price of that one!

Do you lot think it's as good?

Depends what you've got in mind to repair - can you mix cotton wool with it, so it'll cover a large area/hole like plain and simple araldite can without "falling in" .
 
Many still contain acetone but with skin conditioning ingredients. My reasoning for buying pure Acetone on E-Bay...

You can also get acetone at chemists, although it's quite expensive, and also at places selling fibreglass stuff for boatbuilding.
 
Looks to be a good price, but do you need that much? It's very flammable, not something you want a lot of around the house.
 
I use devcon aluminium putty at work. It's been "known" to have been used for other purposes:D

One guy used it to seal a leak on his water cylinder, lasted a few years.

someone repaired a gas leak with it.

I've used it to fill a knackered thread, tapped it later when set to G1/8" for a grease nipple worked ok.

most common use these days is when i have to set a motor inside an aluminium explosion proof casting, this needs the motor aligning with a reamed hole, the motor "floats" on the putty unti set. bloody good stuff, not cheap though.

i tried the liquid once, too runny for my intended purpose, at the least the putty has some slight "grab" the liquid is....err..... too liquid!
 
Having a degree in Chemistry, I do like my solvents.

If you can't be ars3d waiting for someone to send you an ebay purchase, an alternative is a hairdressing / beauty supply shop. Generally acetone is available by the litre which generally keeps you going for a while.

As has been pointed out, acetone is very flamable, but really no more risky than say, petrol or methylated spirits. If you have a lockable cupboard in the garage then keep it there with the lid properly screwed on.

If you soak a rag with it, after use, you will notice your fingers look very dry, it has a tendency to strip the natural oils out of the skin, so try and avoid doing that too much and consider a putting lotion on your hands after.

It is very good for removing things like epoxies such as the chemical metals, but if you are using solvents for removing residues, bear in mind that there are essentially two types. Polar and non-polar solvents. acetone is polar. The residue needs to be soluble in the solvent you are using, and ideally you should choose the weakest solvent that does the job. Acetone is in the same class as alcohols like IPA 'Iso Propyl Alcohol' / 'rubbing alcohol' or methylated spirits. Try using IPA before using Acetone as the latter has a nasty habit of removing more than you expect such as paint work of dissolving plastic, it is obviously fine on glass (uncoated) or metals. If you are removing something like a sticky label, try WD40, then White Spirits, these and other petrolreum distillates fall into the non-polar class, the stronger of these are the light paint thinners. If you find you just have a gunge you are pushing around, use the other type of solvent, it should help. If you aren't touchng the residue move up the scale. But do test the solvent where it won't show.

There are some good dry-cleaning solvents off the shelf which are also quite handy. Usually these are spot-off for removing tar etc

A rather rough guide to the strength of a solvent is how quickly it evaporates. The faster it evaporates, then generally the stronger it is.

And then there are ethers, only for the most stupid. very volatile, highly flammable a non polar solvent that evaporates so quickly it makes it hard to use. The vapour has a tendency to drop to the floor or into hollows, and will ignite from a spark in a potentially big fireball. If you really must and things like petrol haven't worked, then a good source is Bradex Easy Start by Holts from an auto spares place. Use only in a well ventilated place.

Remember, when trying to remove some thing like a label, have you tried water, it is a polar solvent, but effectively the weakest and definitely the safest. Many glues are water soluble and you might be pleasantly surprised.

The usual caveat, if you do not feel comfortable using solvents, don't, and if you do please take care.

Not entirely relevant, but hopefully useful to someone. :type
 
For those that doubt JB weld and similar, I once built a Ford 2 litre pinto engine to rally spec which - amongst other things - included filling the inlet ports with JBW and remachining them about 10mm higher up using a die grinder. The epoxy went right in as far as the back of the valve seat and I never had any trouble.

Won the South West Stage Rally championship and the head was still around about 8 seasons later.

How good do you want?

Aside from that, I would say that the putty type sticks are best for running repairs - rocker covers etc. as they don't 'run away'.

Dick
 


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