Longtime lurker seeks advice on 2010 GSA

ibgarrow

Registered user
Joined
Jun 3, 2017
Messages
45
Reaction score
1
Location
Northumberland
I have an option on a 2010 GSA with over 100000 miles, but the subframe is corroded. I could remove, grind off the corrosion and powder coat, or replace. If I replace, would That require V5 modification due to the VIN details changing? Can I move the plate with these on?
 
Remove, blast and power coat.
It is quite a big job, but doable in the driveway. There are 2 sub-frames, only the front one has the VIN.
Whilst there, think about clutch replacement and engine front cover. I did mine a few yaar ago at around 130,000 miles. Once finished i had to clean up the VIN number to make it legible, the powder coating had completely obsucured it.
I also had the engine and gearbox cases powder coated. Because it was apart I installed new pistons, rings, bearing shells, camchains, chain guides, engine roller bearings, gearbox roller bearings, all shaft seals etc.
I also had the body panels done to match the new frame colour - beware it can become addictive:
20230629_200025.jpg
 
Last edited:
I saw the VIN on a plate on the subframe, and wondered whether changing it might require DVLA…or is that simply a sticker?
 
I saw the VIN on a plate on the subframe, and wondered whether changing it might require DVLA…or is that simply a sticker?
Its punched into the metal, and then a clear foil is placed over it
 
So I’d have to swap the plate over onto the replacement subframe to maintain VIN consistency?
There are two frames - Front & Rear
The Front is the heastock frame - and the Vin is stamped in that one
The rear afaik has no vin on it
If you have one, post a piccy up of the one on the rear subframe
 
If you source a second hand replacement it will likeky be a similar vintage and in need of touching up. So, why not just repaint the one you have ? It is not a wear part, it seems pointless to replace what you have - at least, it does to me.
 
ffc8cf9b2b5d9620143cd7d9bc0af5c9.jpg



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
If you source a second hand replacement it will likeky be a similar vintage and in need of touching up. So, why not just repaint the one you have ? It is not a wear part, it seems pointless to replace what you have - at least, it does to me.

This seems to be past a touch up. If I take this back to bare metal, won’t that reduce its integrity?
98d6bb9a596717d79cfa0611de90b7c4.jpg



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Remove, blast and power coat.
It is quite a big job, but doable in the driveway. There are 2 sub-frames, only the front one has the VIN.
Whilst there, think about clutch replacement and engine front cover. I did mine a few yaar ago at around 130,000 miles. Once finished i had to clean up the VIN number to make it legible, the powder coating had completely obsucured it.
I also had the engine and gearbox cases powder coated. Because it was apart I installed new pistons, rings, bearing shells, camchains, chain guides, engine roller bearings, gearbox roller bearings, all shaft seals etc.
I also had the body panels done to match the new frame colour - beware it can become addictive:
View attachment 272309


Oh my god!!!

My long lost twin brother!!! We were separated at birth but here we are both back again after our parents (BMW Motorrad Germany) split us up at birth!!!

Long have I waited for this moment of joy!

When oh when will we be able to see each other again!?!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3714.jpeg
    IMG_3714.jpeg
    316.6 KB · Views: 41
  • IMG_3691.jpeg
    IMG_3691.jpeg
    312 KB · Views: 40
ffc8cf9b2b5d9620143cd7d9bc0af5c9.jpg



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I've just powder-coated my rear subframe. I removed the sticker by using a bit of heat on the rear (from a heat gun) to soften the adhesive. It is very fragile, but will peel off. I applied it again to the newly-coated item. Job done.
 
I’m still vacillating here.
would a poor condition ‘10 GSA with high miles (100,000+) be a better buy than say, an 06 GSA with only 68K but far better condition (still with corrosion on the front cover)? Same price, around £3000
I’d be happy to pull the ‘10 to bits and paint/powder coat…
 
I’m still vacillating here.
would a poor condition ‘10 GSA with high miles (100,000+) be a better buy than say, an 06 GSA with only 68K but far better condition (still with corrosion on the front cover)? Same price, around £3000
I’d be happy to pull the ‘10 to bits and paint/powder coat…
Depends on what preventative maintenance has been done and which major components have been changed for example, if the 2010 bike has had a clutch and other known potential issues have been addressed, it could be the better buy than the older bike which has not. Especially so if you are OK refubishing the cosmetics.
 


Back
Top Bottom