BigDan
Registered user
Hi all, i've been searching for a guide on how to change my main throttle cable and i'm having no luck so far! My bike is a 2009 r1200GS Adv.
Any help much appreciated
Any help much appreciated
Looking for a guide on how to change my main throttle cable
- Thread starter BigDan
- Start date
The main throttle cable goes to a 'splitter box' under the fuel tank, which then feeds two individual cables to the throttle bodies. The throttle grip end is easy to undo.
Remove the fuel tank and take a look. The splitter box is removable and has a clip on cover to get access to the cables.
Is the main cable worn or sticking ??
Remove the fuel tank and take a look. The splitter box is removable and has a clip on cover to get access to the cables.
Is the main cable worn or sticking ??
BigDan
Registered user
Thanks man. I'm still hoping for a comprehensive guide as i've not taken the tank off before but nice to know its quite simple.
Its completely fucked. It was badly routed when i removed the handlebar risers, ran out of adjustment, was sticking, i pulled it to loosen it and now the bike revs straight to 100% when i start it
Its completely fucked. It was badly routed when i removed the handlebar risers, ran out of adjustment, was sticking, i pulled it to loosen it and now the bike revs straight to 100% when i start it
Here is a video of doing it on 1150 prob similar procedure, I did it on my R1100S recently fair bit of faffing around but not hard to do prob good idea to change all the cables at same time
https://youtu.be/ybHjEbUa2NA
https://youtu.be/ybHjEbUa2NA
GSA fuel tank is simple. Four bolts (two each side) locate it. The fuel lines have push fit connectors, one each side (flow and return hoses). Two wiring connectors on left side. Two rubber overflow/vent hoses with inline connectors (one each side).
Prep work: The plastic skin stays on, just undo the small torx screws and remove the metal knee-level side covers, the two black covers with the BMW roundels, and remove the screws linking the tank skin to the beak. Pull off the lower plastic side trims, RHS one has a screw. Undo the air intake snorkel/filter cover on RHS by sliding out the plastic retaining wedges and remove. Carefully undo the two electrical connectors on the LHS for the fuel pump and fuel gauge. A small flat screwdriver is needed to open the retaining clips on the connectors. Unclip and disconnect the fuel lines. Separate the overflow/vent line connectors.
For tank removal, slacken the big torx bolts (one each side) on the front locating rubbers, remove the two lower allen bolts (one each side), then slide the fuel tank rearwards and lift off.
Tank removal takes about ten minutes. When replacing, it is easy to cross-thread the allen bolts. I use a piece of wood between airbox and tank to lift/lower and align the threads. Use copper grease on the threads when refitting.
EDIT: Best done when near empty (obviously). When lifting the tank off, be ready for the fuel sloshing into one wing of the tank upsetting your grip, dont drop it ! (An assistant might be useful).
Prep work: The plastic skin stays on, just undo the small torx screws and remove the metal knee-level side covers, the two black covers with the BMW roundels, and remove the screws linking the tank skin to the beak. Pull off the lower plastic side trims, RHS one has a screw. Undo the air intake snorkel/filter cover on RHS by sliding out the plastic retaining wedges and remove. Carefully undo the two electrical connectors on the LHS for the fuel pump and fuel gauge. A small flat screwdriver is needed to open the retaining clips on the connectors. Unclip and disconnect the fuel lines. Separate the overflow/vent line connectors.
For tank removal, slacken the big torx bolts (one each side) on the front locating rubbers, remove the two lower allen bolts (one each side), then slide the fuel tank rearwards and lift off.
Tank removal takes about ten minutes. When replacing, it is easy to cross-thread the allen bolts. I use a piece of wood between airbox and tank to lift/lower and align the threads. Use copper grease on the threads when refitting.
EDIT: Best done when near empty (obviously). When lifting the tank off, be ready for the fuel sloshing into one wing of the tank upsetting your grip, dont drop it ! (An assistant might be useful).
Bendy toy
Registered user
Check one or both cables have not pulled out of the throttle bodies. When that happens, a throttle gets held open.
The GSA tank has a few bits and pieces to disconnect.
Remove seats
Remove all covers. I also remove the beak plastic - not 100% necessary but certainly easier out of the way.
Fuel filler cap to remove tank top plastic cover.
Overflow hoses from tank top.
Electric connectors on LHS tank access cover. Use a small screwdriver to lift the retaining tag.
Fuel connectors - press a side clip to release. One each side.
Air filter intake tube also has to come off.
Bolts either side the back of the tank unscrew easily but can be a struggle to refit. Note their alignment as you screw them out as its all too easy to get them cross threads when putting back.
Have a tray for all the M5 torx screws. There are loads of them !!
The GSA tank has a few bits and pieces to disconnect.
Remove seats
Remove all covers. I also remove the beak plastic - not 100% necessary but certainly easier out of the way.
Fuel filler cap to remove tank top plastic cover.
Overflow hoses from tank top.
Electric connectors on LHS tank access cover. Use a small screwdriver to lift the retaining tag.
Fuel connectors - press a side clip to release. One each side.
Air filter intake tube also has to come off.
Bolts either side the back of the tank unscrew easily but can be a struggle to refit. Note their alignment as you screw them out as its all too easy to get them cross threads when putting back.
Have a tray for all the M5 torx screws. There are loads of them !!
The Devon echo strikes again.....
Why remove the plastic tank skin and fuel filler ffs?
Its completely unnecessary, and a total pain in the arse to get the rubbers back in beneath the filler cap when reassembling.
Why remove the plastic tank skin and fuel filler ffs?
Its completely unnecessary, and a total pain in the arse to get the rubbers back in beneath the filler cap when reassembling.
Spot on.
Its completely fucked. It was badly routed when i removed the handlebar risers, ran out of adjustment, was sticking, i pulled it to loosen it and now the bike revs straight to 100% when i start it
No need to replace any cables, sounds more like you've simply dislodged one or more of the throttle cable holders..
With the ignition off twist the throttle full on and pull/wiggle the throttle cable/s around, you may hear them pop back into place.
BigDan
Registered user
No, honestly mate they were fucked. All adjustment chewed up with pliers e.t.c.
Anywho, new cable installed now and running right as rain
Anywho, new cable installed now and running right as rain
Bendy toy
Registered user
Oh we are in a mood aren't we.
It's just four torx screws It's never been a struggle. The bottom part of the filler stays put.
The rubber vent hoses are as much of a pain to reroute when the tank goes back so leaving the plastic cover in place is no time saving.
What do you expect when you seem to needlessly repeat everything I post in the hexhead section?
