phooey
Registered user
Got a cheap replacement for my 1200 gsa on holidy after original 4yr old battery gave up. Lasted all of C.7 months.
Lost all Electrics?
- Thread starter Rotaxmaxracer
- Start date
Got a cheap replacement for my 1200 gsa on holidy after original 4yr old battery gave up. Lasted all of C.7 months.
Rotaxmaxracer
Registered user
The one that I have on th bike now is a Numax from the same firm. Had it 2 ½ years without a hitch. Might even be that it doesn't need replacement now...as I have discovered that the starter was jammed - and as Bendytoy say's, this can lead to a low voltage reading when turning over.
Will advise you of the outcome
Will advise you of the outcome
Bendy toy
Registered user
I have an Odyssey bought lightly used. It's big, heavy and fits better back to front (terminals towards tank). But it always starts the bike and hardly ever sees an Optimate. But for the cost of a new one I'd pay the extra for a Ballistic LiFePo dry cell battery.
It's so much smaller I'd probably put that in the front (beak) subframe or even under the tank.
It's so much smaller I'd probably put that in the front (beak) subframe or even under the tank.
Rotaxmaxracer
Registered user
Back to the drawing board...
Took the battery to a specialist who tested the static voltage (13.2v - excellent) - but then told me that the cranking amperage (should be 200 on this battery) was exactly zero! Hence no output whatsoever. Purchased new battery, charged and fitted and lo and behold - all of the electrics are back to normal again.
Having removed the starter motor and followed Bendy Toy's helpful advice sheet in cleaning and greasing etc, went to start the bike with a sense of anticipation this morning and all I get is a loud 'Clonk' as before - then everything locks up!!
Going to take the starter off again and try putting some power across the terminals to check all is ok...and will also check the ring gear on the clutch with a torch to ensure no broken bits. Outside of this...a trip to the repair shop is on the cards methinks
Took the battery to a specialist who tested the static voltage (13.2v - excellent) - but then told me that the cranking amperage (should be 200 on this battery) was exactly zero! Hence no output whatsoever. Purchased new battery, charged and fitted and lo and behold - all of the electrics are back to normal again.
Having removed the starter motor and followed Bendy Toy's helpful advice sheet in cleaning and greasing etc, went to start the bike with a sense of anticipation this morning and all I get is a loud 'Clonk' as before - then everything locks up!!
Going to take the starter off again and try putting some power across the terminals to check all is ok...and will also check the ring gear on the clutch with a torch to ensure no broken bits. Outside of this...a trip to the repair shop is on the cards methinks
AberdeenAngus
Registered user
If you put power to the starter while its off the bike........hang on to it.
I hate to suggest this, but has the engine partially seized, or locked up in a funny position.? Or maybe alternator partially seized..?
Worth a quick check..
Worth a quick check..
Rotaxmaxracer
Registered user
Rotaxmaxracer
Registered user
Thanks for the suggestion - all ideas are helpful. Engine seems to be turning freely but haven't checked alternator. I will check that also
Bendy toy
Registered user
If alternator has seized the starter might not be able to turn the engine. Also check the starter ring gear has all of its teeth. The engine will stop in only two positions so the same two or four teeth get all of the hammer.
An easy way to see if the engine is locked - take out the spark plugs and spin the starter. It should fling over fast - no compression. If not there is mechanical issue.
An easy way to see if the engine is locked - take out the spark plugs and spin the starter. It should fling over fast - no compression. If not there is mechanical issue.
Rotaxmaxracer
Registered user
Now looking very much like the starter motor methinks! Still getting the 'clonk' from the starter when attempting to turn over - have checked engine and all turning overs ok.
Put a screwdriver against the starter as a stethoscope and could hear and feel the motor wanting to go. Stripped the motor off the bike again and checked the clutch and motor gears - all are fine.
Reinstalled the motor and bypassed the relay by putting a live to the terminal and and a live feed to the solenoid. Flashed against the earth on the motor and still nothing.
Does this mean the motor has gone do you think? The symptoms are exactly as described at http://web.ncf.ca/fm395/ and wondering if the magnets have become displaced?
Put a screwdriver against the starter as a stethoscope and could hear and feel the motor wanting to go. Stripped the motor off the bike again and checked the clutch and motor gears - all are fine.
Reinstalled the motor and bypassed the relay by putting a live to the terminal and and a live feed to the solenoid. Flashed against the earth on the motor and still nothing.
Does this mean the motor has gone do you think? The symptoms are exactly as described at http://web.ncf.ca/fm395/ and wondering if the magnets have become displaced?
Bendy toy
Registered user
You need to jump lead direct to the motor positive terminal. If that's not making it turn, the motor is at fault.
Remove the heavy power lead and switched connector unscrew the two small hex head bolts. The rotor will slide out so you can look at magnets and carbon brushes.
DONT remove the two cross heads unless you want endless fun with springs and brushes.
Remove the heavy power lead and switched connector unscrew the two small hex head bolts. The rotor will slide out so you can look at magnets and carbon brushes.
DONT remove the two cross heads unless you want endless fun with springs and brushes.
