Lots of popping from the exhaust

[Ketchup]

I have recently fitted a Y-piece and sealed the y to the down pipes with exhaust assembly paste but am getting quite a bit of back firing.

I know that some others suffer from this but can it be avoided and is it doing the motor any harm?

Thanks
Nick

 

[Podger]

You've got Air

You've got air getting into the system around the area of the Y piece joints ......it might clear up as it bungs up , but best to smear some exhaust sealant around the inside joint and re-assemble >

and no it's not really doing any harm ...........look at Foggy Petronas

 

[Sergeant Pluck]

i've refitted my y-piece / standard can 4 times now - each time MORE carefully making sure the connections are tight, loosening up the whole system, using normal exhaust gum and more recently (yesterday!) with silicone sealant.

it will not stop backfiring. it cannot be done! i challenge anyone to get my system running without backfiring! i will make you a nice cup of tea with cake if you can do it ;-)

pr0ne

 

[Ketchup]

Thanks Podger, so does anyone know where I can get this Universal bonding silicon stuff?

 

[(RIP) maverick]

Thanks Podger, so does anyone know where I can get this Universal bonding silicon stuff?

Halfords sells a variaty of exhaust sealing stuff from tape to sealants. I have used good old gungum in the past and sorted most of the leaks out but secretly enjoy the odd backfire when pulling up at a traffic light next to the racers

 

[bakerlonglegs]

They all do that sir...

I had the same problem with a Y on a standard can. No amount of re-sealing would sort it. This has also been a subject of much-o debate in previous posts! One theory from an earlier thread was that, even with perfect sealing, the free flow in the Y piece allows a slug of air to get back up the pipes and causes the backfire, it does'nt do it with an open can on 'cos the air doesn't get enough pressure built up. I don't know enough about gas flow theory to judge whether that's true but I certainly couldn't eliminate the problem with a standard can.
I solved it by putting a Remus revolution end can on. Overall slightly noisier but no very loud backfires at worst possible moments (passing horses, schools, coppers, ect, ect...)
Andy

 

[Ketchup]

I'm glad you put that in baker, I do think that I have sealed it with loads f assembly paste and it still seems to let fly, oh dear, perhaps I'll have to buy a noisy can

 

[Les Wassall]

Mine did not pop at all after fitting a Y with standard can, but then it only did 150 miles to the tank, turned out the Lambda probe was 'd so it was replaiced at Williams and the engine set up, now it pops and its ace runs a treat, 200+ to the tank.

 

[Ketchup]

Mine did not pop at all after fitting a Y with standard can, but then it only did 150 miles to the tank, turned out the Lambda probe was 'd so it was replaiced at Williams and the engine set up, now it pops and its ace runs a treat, 200+ to the tank.

I only get 150-170 to the tank, how the hell do you get 200+?

 

[The Mechanic]

Don't assume....

The original B*W clamps don not always clamp the pipe to 'y' piece or silencer fully when done right up as tight as possible. The clamps have a stop piece in them and this needs to be removed, probably an extra sleeve of metal wrapped around the pipe and then the clamp fitted. Best to use an M & P type stainless clamps.

The silencer, end can must also be securely clamped, any air leak at all will create the scenario for backfires from the exhaust.

Yes it will do harm if the air leak is at the 'y'piece, the reasons are that the exhaust gas temperature rockets and could cause excess temperature in the silencer/end can which would affect any wadding (race can) this temperature increase may also have a detrimental affect upon exhaust valves creating burning of the seats.

 

[Ketchup]

I did take the spacers out of the B*W clamps and madea a spacer to go under the nut so that there was sufficient thread. I also used proper exhaust assembly paste whhich seems to have sealed very well at the down pipes.

I did not put any sealer around the Lamda sensor as the thread seemed fairly tight anyway, perhaps I should put some PTFE tape aruond that? I did not use any paste on the joining of the tail can so I will check that too. Thanks for the advise

Nick

 

[judge]

Mileage up, noise down, no popping.... how? Simple return the bike to OE cat and can, I forgot just how pleasant and less tiring it was on a long run. I am now happy y-piece and Remus Revolution Titanium up for sale soon

Proceeds toward Picos trip and petrol tank

 

[Les Wassall]

I only get 150-170 to the tank, how the hell do you get 200+?

Easy on the throttle and get as much in the tank as poss.

 

[Ketchup]

I've noticed it doesn't happen for the first 10 miles or so, if it was sucking in air would it not do it more or less from the start?

 

[Big Lad]

I've got a Remus Revolution on my 94 1100GS. Where the pipe joins the can, there is a small hole on the r/s ( sat on bike). Anyone know why ?. After a few miles it gets a sooty line around it. My only guess is that it was put there to let condensation out ???. It only backfires now when on the over-run from high revs in a low gear, but more of a flemmy cackle than a backfire. ( BB chip fitted ).

By the way, anyone want a standard exhaust ? ( no cat ). I keep tripping over the bloody thing in the garage.

 

[ktm520]

I didn't useanypasteand I don't get any popping.

I do however have thetfi fittedwith the lamda probe removed