Low suspension grinding

Rowle

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Hi all.
Just read a post on the GS low model touching down on corners.
I tried to reply but the thread is now closed.

Can anyone tell me if they have issues with any part touching around corners as i am in the middle of doing a deal on a low model - i like a good play around twisty roads and am now worried.
I did test ride a standard bike with the seat in the low position but it was way too high - so i am sorting the low version with low seat.
Any replies appreciated.
 
Hi all.
Just read a post on the GS low model touching down on corners.
I tried to reply but the thread is now closed.

Can anyone tell me if they have issues with any part touching around corners as i am in the middle of doing a deal on a low model - i like a good play around twisty roads and am now worried.
I did test ride a standard bike with the seat in the low position but it was way too high - so i am sorting the low version with low seat.
Any replies appreciated.

I haven't on mine which is a gsa but then again i might not ride like you if you know what i mean.
 
Low model in Dynamic mode is very good, it makes suspension harder, so you should be ok hard riding, Road mode is softer suspension, but you can also have standard bike, suspension on MIN with Touratech extra low seat, will be very low and also very good.
 
Hi, I have a 2018 gs low with low seat. I also added Touratech lower pegs. I do not ride at silly speeds but can take the tyres to the edge without touching down. I have the preload set to minimum and damping to road, sometimes dynamic. The suspension does need to be taken into account when loading up with luggage and/or pillion. I too tried standard bike with low seat but too high. I highly recommend the low model. Hope this helps
 
Feck me,

thats low low low to get it to grind on a factory low

on my hexhead lowered 30mm i never got anywhere near the edges of the tyres, and i often thought i was going to put it down lol

Have you been out for a test ride ?

The only thing ive managed to grind cornering is my foot, because it had it out. lesson learnt - dont stick foot out ;)

your clylinder heads / crash bars would contact first i'd have thought

Adjust your riding style, would be my call ;)
 
The chassis is the same, and I believe it is only the suspension travel that is reduced on the factory lowered model so the springs are stiffer to compensate. This means that as soon you sit on the bike the initial difference between the two is already reduced, as you get less compression for a given load with the harder spring.

The difference then progressively gets less as the suspension load increases, either with static load or dynamically in response to cornering and road surface compression, until at full compression the ride height of the two versions will be exactly the same. I doubt that there will be any adverse effect even for enthusiastic road use.
 
The chassis is the same, and I believe it is only the suspension travel that is reduced on the factory lowered model so the springs are stiffer to compensate. This means that as soon you sit on the bike the initial difference between the two is already reduced, as you get less compression for a given load with the harder spring.

The difference then progressively gets less as the suspension load increases, either with static load or dynamically in response to cornering and road surface compression, until at full compression the ride height of the two versions will be exactly the same. I doubt that there will be any adverse effect even for enthusiastic road use.

There is no low chassis, all the lowering is done via the suspension.

30mm front - 30mm rear Low centre, & side stands & if required seating -

You have to have ESA to get factory low as they use the auto suspension to assist damping etc

If you want, you can buy a non ESA bike change to a 30mm lowered wilburs front & rear , low centre and side stand and you have effectively a factory low bike
 
There is no low chassis, all the lowering is done via the suspension.

30mm front - 30mm rear Low centre, & side stands & if required seating -

You have to have ESA to get factory low as they use the auto suspension to assist damping etc

I don't think anyone is saying the chassis is lowered, I certainly wasn't.

I'm don't see why you would need ESA to be able to have the shorter travel suspension, though of course it makes it easier to suitably modify the damping to suit via software.

They probably just didn't find it economically viable to develop non-ESA struts with modified valving to get the correct damping characteristics for the stronger spring and shorter travel, but it would have been perfectly possible to do so.
 
From what I’ve understood is that it is not only the the suspension but also the subframe is different on the factory lowered version


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
To clear things up.

@ Fred, it wasnt a dig, appologies, there is a misconception that the chassis / frame is lower when referring to the factory low

The bike is made up of the engine gearbox and rear frame

They are all the same size, otherwise you would have to have a small engine small gearbox and small rear frame

all the lowering is done via the suspension & stands

On the old GS the seat heights were

Low 820mm = 32"
Std 840 -860mm = 33" 34"
High 890mm = 35"

Using the low seat and winding the rear suspension preload down, you could get the back end to stay at 810 - 820mm

which was tiptoes / balls of the feet

Changing to a set of 30mm lowered Wilburs , got everyting down to 790mm flat foot one side, balls comfortably

But the side and centre stand needed lowering 30mm

So move to the lc factory low so thats a seat height of 820 and the ESA i gives the effect of dropping the suspension 30mm

So 790mm and balls on the floor.... NOPE

The bike is wider than the hexhead so with the low seat & ESA (30mm reduction) were still at 820mm ,as your legs are forced wider by the seat :(

so the only way now to make reductions is via the TT/KH ultralow seat

The reason for ESA is a suspension unit which covers the majority of riders short average & long inside leg

otherwise they would have to make struts with different springs / preloads = more costs

HTH
 
So here is an update that might make you laugh (or not).

Been to 2 local bmw dealers for a check on bike heights.
Dealer A - standard bike low seat position = balls of my feet
Dealer B - low model low seat seat position = balls of my feet
I was REALLY confused.

Got both bike reg numbers and got a specification check done.
Dealer A was actually a standard bike with low seat installed
Dealer B was a low spec bike with a comfort seat installed

I was gobsmaked that these dealers / sales guys dont even know what is in their showrooms or they describe in the adverts !
Anyway, i will order a low bike with low seat and see how i get on.
 
To be honest if you are riding any GS hard enough on the road to be running into ground clearance issues consider a couple of things

1. Buy an S1000Xr or similar adventure styled sports bike
2. Buy a sportsbike
3. Ride slower on public roads
 
That's par for the course. I have always found I know more about the bike specs and options packages than the dealers

You should find that if you spec up a new bike through the configurator that the factory lowered opion includes the low seat, as that is part of what contributes to the lower seat height they quote for that version.
 
To be honest if you are riding any GS hard enough on the road to be running into ground clearance issues consider a couple of things

1. Buy an S1000Xr or similar adventure styled sports bike
2. Buy a sportsbike
3. Ride slower on public roads

And if you can't get your feet on the ground except by using an uncomfortable low profile seat, consider getting an RS instead. All the same technology, but lower as standard and as a bonus better looking too!😄

I didn't need a lower seat but I've changed to the 1250 RS anyway and love it.
 
So here is an update that might make you laugh (or not).

Been to 2 local bmw dealers for a check on bike heights.
Dealer A - standard bike low seat position = balls of my feet
Dealer B - low model low seat seat position = balls of my feet
I was REALLY confused.

Got both bike reg numbers and got a specification check done.
Dealer A was actually a standard bike with low seat installed
Dealer B was a low spec bike with a comfort seat installed

I was gobsmaked that these dealers / sales guys dont even know what is in their showrooms or they describe in the adverts !
Anyway, i will order a low bike with low seat and see how i get on.

I have the lowered GS and 28" inside leg, flat footing is never going to happen unless you stick the missus on the back and fit fully loaded luggage. I have never ridden a bike that I could flat foot. The GS is a very well balanced bike that makes it easy to ride, just pick your stopping places with care.
 
So here is an update that might make you laugh (or not).

Been to 2 local bmw dealers for a check on bike heights.
Dealer A - standard bike low seat position = balls of my feet
Dealer B - low model low seat seat position = balls of my feet
I was REALLY confused.

Got both bike reg numbers and got a specification check done.
Dealer A was actually a standard bike with low seat installed
Dealer B was a low spec bike with a comfort seat installed

I was gobsmaked that these dealers / sales guys dont even know what is in their showrooms or they describe in the adverts !
Anyway, i will order a low bike with low seat and see how i get on.

if it helps I'm 5'7" short and I've had 2 1200 GS LCs in factory lowered spec and now a 1250, also low spec and all had the low seat as standard. I've never ground out any of them.....maybe I'm just not trying hard enough
 
And if you can't get your feet on the ground except by using an uncomfortable low profile seat, consider getting an RS instead. All the same technology, but lower as standard and as a bonus better looking too!😄

I didn't need a lower seat but I've changed to the 1250 RS anyway and love it.

You also have consider the riding position, and adventure bike by design is more sit up and ride The RS is more sports tourer, so the head neck angle is changed as is the shudder / wrist angles

I'd love an RS or VFR, but breaking your neck does wonders for your arm / wrist angles and nerve damage :(
 
You also have consider the riding position, and adventure bike by design is more sit up and ride The RS is more sports tourer, so the head neck angle is changed as is the shudder / wrist angles

I'd love an RS or VFR, but breaking your neck does wonders for your arm / wrist angles and nerve damage :(

Yes agreed, but with some risers fitted I'm finding the RS riding position very comfortable with no neck strain and for me a better back and shoulder position than the GS as I get numb hands caused by pinch points in my shoulders. The slight forward lean on the RS and a bit more wright on my arms actually pushes my shoulders back which is what I need to do to relieve the problem.
 


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