Lower Fork brace removal 1150GS 2000

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meintjiesj

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I'm trying to remove the lower fork brace but having a bit of a blond moment. I've removed the front wheel and mudguard. First problem is the two brackets attached to the brace that holds the brake hoses seems to be attached with a rivet and not a bolt or else the rust has removed any signs that it is a Torx/Allen bolt. Anyone know how to remove it? I can probably take the hoses off also and start drilling but my previous attempts at drilling has cost me a bit of money. Next question is the nut that hold this clamp to the telelever. It just turn and does not seem to unscrew. I've scanned the Haynes manual but can't find the part that deals with it. Any help will be appreciated. Want to get the clamp blasted and powdercoated.

Johan
 
meintjiesj said:
I'm trying to remove the lower fork brace but having a bit of a blond moment. I've removed the front wheel and mudguard. First problem is the two brackets attached to the brace that holds the brake hoses seems to be attached with a rivet and not a bolt or else the rust has removed any signs that it is a Torx/Allen bolt. Anyone know how to remove it? I can probably take the hoses off also and start drilling but my previous attempts at drilling has cost me a bit of money. Next question is the nut that hold this clamp to the telelever. It just turn and does not seem to unscrew. I've scanned the Haynes manual but can't find the part that deals with it. Any help will be appreciated. Want to get the clamp blasted and powdercoated.

Johan
Click to expand...

The brackets are held on by Torx headed screws from the factory.Try the usuals,heat,WD40 but they can easily strip.I think you can remove the black plastic circular clip in the hole and remove the hoses through a gap.
When i removed my brace,i heated the thread with a hot air gun,held it steady with a 12mm hex socket while i undid the nut with a spanner.
Be careful when blasting around the balljoint.I used a rotary wire wheel and painted the clamp with silver Hammerite.
 
Thanks Colban.

I've read a few threads on this last night and it seems powdercoating will the wrong way to go. So I'll clean it the way you did and use Hammerrite in a spaygun and a few layers of laquer. I thought that the brackets screws were stripped because up to now I haven't found one stupid design on the 1150GS. There may be people that disagree. Am I correct in saying that the nut on the balljoint is a 21. First time I've had to use a 21 on a bike. I've not seen the gaps in the brackets, but then the light is minimal in the garage. Will put on the headlamp tonight.
 
Ball joint

Remove the plastic cap and you can insert an allen key in the top of the bolt to prevent it turning, then undo the ball joint nut. This is TIGHT may be secured with lock tight so if it wont go heat it with a hot air gun. This MUST
be tightend to 96ft lbs when replacing and use locktight as well, if you dont
do it up tight enough it can come loose (mine did on off road!). Get a manual
before you start clymer is best.
dave gs.
 
Thanks Dave.

I've got the Haynes manual and it isn't very specific about that area. I'll get the Clymer then also. I'll also nip out and buy a big bloody 21 ring neck spanner because the socket aint gonna work any more if I need to get the Torx in there also. I'll then need to hold the middel part when I torque it up also, that will be a bit of a problem. Will have to do it up with a ring neck and then test it with the torque wrench. BMW probably have some fancy £200 tool to do it...
 
ball joint

if you havent got a torque wrench see if you can borrow one if not this has to be very tight and use lock tight. Clymer wil;l be of a great help, don't leave
home without it!. Good luck.
dave gs.
 
First problem is the two brackets attached to the brace that holds the brake hoses seems to be attached with a rivet and not a bolt or else the rust has removed any signs that it is a Torx/Allen bolt.
Click to expand...

My 2002 model had allen headed bolts holding these on which would have broken off without following operation, I managed to get fork brace off leaving them attached then carefully heated the aluminium around the bolts with oxy acetylene torch and worked them back and forth until they came out replacing them with stainless on rebuild.

To do this I had to undo brake line and then bleed on rebuild.
 
Thanks for all the advice. Everything is of use to me. I have two torque wrenches. Got a nice go-away pressie at my previous job - Halford vouchers. Being always skint I replaced the £10 wrench that I had with two (big and small) wrenches from the Halford profesional range. The £10.00 jobbie was in the bin that night as it has let go a few times, the last time hitting me under the chin and chipping a tooth. Must have been the gears inside. I'm just putting the battery box back now, got it blasted and sprayed it. Looks ok for my first try at spray painting. Just came inside to check if I can find some answers on routing....after rebuilding how many old Jap bikes I always think I'll remember where that %^%^ wire will go and 3 weeks later I don't. Yes I know - make drawings and take pictures. But like most men I read the manual after I've broken it....
 
Manuals

You must be an electrican, always throw the instructions away before you start!.
dave gs.
 
Thanks Big Lad. I've noticed that one last night and put it in the Favorites. Something that seems irrelevant can make such a big difference. Looks like you are the man to come and put it all together again for me...first hand experience.

Johan
 
Torquing up..

I have started to use a hand held luggage scales attached to an extension tube to tighten up nuts / bolts that need a large force. Hook the spring balance on the extension tube at a known distance from the nut center, Factor the spring balance with the available lenght on the extension and you can get a large force involved in tightening up. You can also calibrate the spring balance acurately with a bucket of water or whatever.
 
Tight

Much better just to buy a torque wrench
 
Wot Dave says - torque wrenches are the tool for the job. Somewhere like Screwfix sell cheap but serviceable torque wrenches, it's just not worth faffing with spanners and spring blances.

However, I do check the calibration of my torque wrenches with a bucket of water :)
 
Trial by water

.

However, I do check the calibration of my torque wrenches with a bucket of water :)[/QUOTE]

Do they sink or swim?
 
how many of us have a torque wrench that goes to 230nm, i would only use one once. I also doubt the accuracy of the cheaper, common ones that are often available. HOWEVER if you do use this method of torquing then be aware that every Kilogramme of force you apply will give 10 newtons of force to the bolt, so watch your units....dont rip the bolt head off....
 
Grey Sickle said:
how many of us have a torque wrench that goes to 230nm, i would only use one once. I also doubt the accuracy of the cheaper, common ones that are often available. HOWEVER if you do use this method of torquing then be aware that every Kilogramme of force you apply will give 10 newtons of force to the bolt, so watch your units....dont rip the bolt head off....
Click to expand...


I must be old school, rarely does my torque wrenches ever come out of their boxes, manage with most fastners to use common sense, the length of spanners are the length they are for a reason, does that make me old :eek:
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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