Lowered Footpegs & Gear/Brake lever adjustment

[BigAl&Andri]

Calling all long legged Tossers!

Have you installed lowered footpegs and, if so, what did you do about lowering the gear and brake levers to suit?

Ta

Al

 

[Delboy777]

Lowered Footpegs & Gear/Brake lever adjustment

Calling all long legged Tossers!

Have you installed lowered footpegs and, if so, what did you do about lowering the gear and brake levers to suit?

Ta

Al

Adjust them down to suit. With the gear linkage slacken the two lock nuts (remember one will be left hand thread) on the link rod between pedal and box. With the brake adjust the link in the clevis. Loosen the locknut and screw the rod i think its 10mm spanner. It helps if you spray a little WD40 on the rubber gaiter otherwise it will twist into a knot. Once your happy tighten lock nuts again.


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[autogs]

do not adjust the brake pedal repete do not adjust the brake pedal!

 

[Delboy777]

do not adjust the brake pedal repete do not adjust the brake pedal!

Why not ? Oh and its repeat just sayin

 

[Deleted account 191119001]

Why not ? Oh and its repeat just sayin

Listen good to post number 3 he is correct, touch that rear brake and you will cry a thousand tears.

 

[Delboy777]

Listen good to post number 3 he is correct, touch that rear brake and you will cry a thousand tears.

Explain ? you cant make a statement like that without an explanation

 

[Deleted account 191119001]

Explain ? you cant make a statement like that without an explanation

Your choice if you want to leave a smoke trail and warp the discs, pedal is set at a position, no touch at all.

And from another poster

Just to understand the situation, take a look at the brake pedal arm forward of the footpeg and see where it is almost touching the frame. The factory adjustment is to have this sitting 1mm off the frame. If you raise it, it will contact the frame after that 1mm and won't move any further up. However, what you will do by continuing to turn the plunger on the threaded clevis at the back is to remove all the "blow-by" in the master cylinder, which is the distance the plunger moves before it covers up the bypass hole to the reservoir and starts pressurizing the system. If you don't have that space, when the fluid heats up under braking the system stays pressurized even when you let off the pedal, and the result is rear brake lockup eventually, fire, brimstone, bad scene man.

 

[Delboy777]

Your choice if you want to leave a smoke trail and warp the discs, pedal is set at a position, no touch at all.

And from another poster

Just to understand the situation, take a look at the brake pedal arm forward of the footpeg and see where it is almost touching the frame. The factory adjustment is to have this sitting 1mm off the frame. If you raise it, it will contact the frame after that 1mm and won't move any further up. However, what you will do by continuing to turn the plunger on the threaded clevis at the back is to remove all the "blow-by" in the master cylinder, which is the distance the plunger moves before it covers up the bypass hole to the reservoir and starts pressurizing the system. If you don't have that space, when the fluid heats up under braking the system stays pressurized even when you let off the pedal, and the result is rear brake lockup eventually, fire, brimstone, bad scene man.

Ok that explains it


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[Victor c]

I have the adjustable BMW foot pegs on my GSA. They allow 3 positions, same height as standard, 10mm lower and 20mm lower. The only issue I found with the 20mm lower position is the brake pedal is too high. As said by Smogbob, do not adjust it, it could lead to binding.
Adjusting the gear lever is simple, just make small adjustments on the link bar from lever to gearbox.

 

[ChazzyB]

do not adjust the brake pedal repete do not adjust the brake pedal!

He knows, he does.

 

[autogs]

Explain ? you cant make a statement like that without an explanation

well if you look at the "adjuster" if you have any mechanical aptitude you will quickly work out why adjustment is a bad idea,just saying

 

[BigAl&Andri]

Thank you to all who responded - particularly those more knowledgable of you whose advice might well have avoided a catastrophic brake problem!

Cheers

Al

 

[Delboy777]

well if you look at the "adjuster" if you have any mechanical aptitude you will quickly work out why adjustment is a bad idea,just saying

Ok i've taken a look and as far as i can see its like any other one on any bike. Now im far from a mechanical idiot, but im failing to see what the problem would be. I underestand others have had problems by doing it so can you explain to me why its a bad idea. Im not going to be doing it BTW, i was trying to help another member out using the experience ive gained over the years of doing this sort of thing. I take it the rod screws into the clevis so cant see why it should not be done.Im more than happy to be "educated" as it were. Just asking

 

[Mr Bean]

I did it on mine, making sure there was still free play at the pedal - except the free play disappeared under way and started binding. I backed it off so there was now a fair amount of travel, but less than before - guess what. Yup, it still closed up. In the end it was put back to the start point and all ok, but loads of travel.

 

[Delboy777]

I did it on mine, making sure there was still free play at the pedal - except the free play disappeared under way and started binding. I backed it off so there was now a fair amount of travel, but less than before - guess what. Yup, it still closed up. In the end it was put back to the start point and all ok, but loads of travel.

Wonder why it would do that

 

[Deleted account 191119001]

Wonder why it would do that

Stop wondering and just leave it alone, or be doomed.

 

[john-g]

Ok i've taken a look and as far as i can see its like any other one on any bike. Now im far from a mechanical idiot, but im failing to see what the problem would be. I underestand others have had problems by doing it so can you explain to me why its a bad idea. Im not going to be doing it BTW, i was trying to help another member out using the experience ive gained over the years of doing this sort of thing. I take it the rod screws into the clevis so cant see why it should not be done.Im more than happy to be "educated" as it were. Just asking

I thought exactly the same as you but did make the adjustment and found the brake binding and overheating problem that others report. When I put the clearance back in all was OK again.

After this I complained to the Dealer about not being able to adjust the Brake pedal height and of this overheating problem, told him that I felt there should be a "Stop" built into the adjustment to prevent you taking out all of the clearance in the Rod, but didn't get anywhere.

In the end managed to get the Footrest to Pedal adjustment how I wanted it by fitting height adjustable Footrests.

 

[Delboy777]

I thought exactly the same as you but did make the adjustment and found the brake binding and overheating problem that others report. When I put the clearance back in all was OK again.

After this I complained to the Dealer about not being able to adjust the Brake pedal height and of this overheating problem, told him that I felt there should be a "Stop" built into the adjustment to prevent you taking out all of the clearance in the Rod, but didn't get anywhere.

In the end managed to get the Footrest to Pedal adjustment how I wanted it by fitting height adjustable Footrests.

Yes this appears to be the case now, i have mistakenly thought it would be like any other bike. Feckin BMW why do they have to make things so difficult ?? If you were to fit lowering pegs you would be stuffed because you cant adjust the brake height, not so bloody clever in the case of the boxhead that designed this

 

[Mr Bean]

Wonder why it would do that

No idea, but for sure the first time I set it there was free play - the clevis pin slotted straight in and was free, not the slightest binding of the pin. When I backed it out there was positive downward pressure to overcome before the pin went in and it still ended up binding.

Still don't understand why, but in the end accepted the long travel of the pedal.

 

[john-g]

No idea, but for sure the first time I set it there was free play - the clevis pin slotted straight in and was free, not the slightest binding of the pin. When I backed it out there was positive downward pressure to overcome before the pin went in and it still ended up binding.

Still don't understand why, but in the end accepted the long travel of the pedal.

This was part of the reason I started fiddling with the Pedal. (My first GS and BMW) The long travel was getting worse and while on holiday ran out of rear brake completely. Once back home, the Dealer bled the rear Brake with the ABS pump running and the pedal now has less free travel than when I first bought the bike from them. So am happy now other than for there not being any height adjustment in the Pedal.