major items checklist for those who know their 1150GSA's

Michael R1150GS Adventure

Michael R1150GS Adventure

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If your 2003 GSA was going to make a long (very) prolonged journey, what would you replace (preventative) or carry...?

On/off road and fully loaded, one up.
Bikes done 46K and is in decent nick. Fully serviced and looked after.

:thumb
 
If memory serves, according to Steptoe all you really need to bring are a final drive bearing and seal and an alternator belt.
 
cheers - hall sensor worth popping in? guess its just the exotic showstoppers really.
Did wonder if its worth taking fork seals too.

Steptoe thinks im selfish so hopefully he wont get involved in this one :) oh and I never did get round to fecking myself.
 
I'd not bother with fork seals, as they are not forks in the normal sense - an oil leak is an inconvenience and won't affect handling.

How many miles and how long will you be away?
 
You'll find plenty of threads with a search, give us a clue where your going because that will dictate what you carry to some extent.

With all due respect to Steptoe, I would see what goes wrong with these bikes on prolonged off road trips.

Rear suspension and the lower bolt needs to be strong and perfect before setting off, final drive go's without saying, fork seal don't weight anything but they often leak only because of dirt so can be cleaned, coil sticks, Hall sensor, TPS, alt belt, tube to fit either tyre etc etc.
 
Fork seals aren't worth taking IMO......it's not as if they actually do much apart from lube the sliders.....the worst that can happen is you end up with a bit of rag tied around the stanchion to stop oil dripping down to the caliper.

The only two major items I've taken are as above, and the seals and O ring to go with the bearing.

Bulbs fuses and wiring you can get pretty much anywhere, but I do carry some for on the spot bodges.......other than that, don't stress about it, just enjoy your trip :thumb2
 
I'm not sure if the ADV came with quick release fuel lines as standard. If not, I'd fit and make sure that you use the metal ones.

As mentioned above, I'd upgrade both shocks if not already done. I believe that Hyperpro are the overlanders current shock of choice. See previous comments from matey who rode around the world on an 1100 and took lovely pix!

I'd also consider changing the clutch - possibly not necessary but much easier to do in the comfort of your garage.

If you've got servo and/or ABS I'd consider removing altogether.

Hall sensors already been mentioned. Maybe have a spare starter motor with a friend at home who could post out if required - along with a clutch slave cylinder.

Final drive has also been mentioned. That should do it:thumb
 
Michael R1150GS Adventure said:
cheers - hall sensor worth popping in? guess its just the exotic showstoppers really.
Did wonder if its worth taking fork seals too.

Steptoe thinks im selfish so hopefully he wont get involved in this one :) oh and I never did get round to fecking myself.
Click to expand...

You seem to be holding a grudge there fella,

I am sure Steptoe forgot about it as soon as he pressed the post button, maybe you should do the same!


I took no spares with me, except one time when I took a FD bearing and seal, after that I got a replacement FD, boxed up and ready to ship, other than that I took nothing!
 
Depends on the use it's been put to. If it's been an urban commuter workhorse, I'd change the clutch, as in my experience (this is what my GSs get used for) hacking through towns gives a 50,000 mile clutch life. If it's been toured I wouldn't bother.
 
Holy fk!!!

Fk the spares, just put a whole bike in your left pannier! :D

Or get breakdown cover




To be fair some good advice noted above

H
 
Thanks for the positive advice all. Useful info and appreciated. In answer it will be 22000 miles and the full lap heading east. Getting organised and lots to buy so need a decent lead in time to get ready.
 
I've done a few long-distance trips on my 1150GSA and I learn something every time so my spares list / tool bag has become more refined (and lighter). The only failure I've had on the road was the right fork seal started leaking on a trip through Alaska. I zip-tied a rag to the fork to keep the oil off the brakes and replaced the seal when I got home. Now all I carry is:

1) final drive big bearing and seal;
2) HES;
3) alternator belt;
4) an extra fuel quick disconnect that doubles as a refueling line to help other riders with small tanks (connects to the low-pressure return line);
5) tire repair kit and pump; and
6) tools. When I do routine maintenance at home, I keep the tools I use separate, then pack them for any trips. If I don't normally use a tool throughout the year, I don't need it on a trip.

Any other parts can usually be found at a normal auto parts or bike shop along the way.

I don't do any specific preventative maintenance for a trip other than normal servicing and a good going over. I've changed tires in the hotel parking lot and changed the engine oil and filter in the Walmart parking lot (they will dispose of the oil for you). All part of the adventure...

I try not to over-think it.
 
Fuel pump.
I`l had a fuelpump,with my,for tree years,,and change it in Germany,on a park place on autobahn.
 
Some things can fail, and are a pain in the arse but you can still ride to the next town or to where you can get help.
A fine example of this is a clutch slave cylinder. You can ride any distance without having to use the clutch.
Start the bike in neutral pointing downhill, let it roll and snick it into gear, then use clutchless gearchanges.
If you're on flat ground, again start the bike in neutral paddle it along and snick it into gear and away you go.

Essentials..
Take a used (but you know that works 100%) hall sensor.

Alternator belt (the longer 611 belt, and check if you have the shorter 592/582 belt fitted. They make the alternator sit low against the top of the engine case, and on many bikes you can't fit the adv tank link pipe through unless you remove the alternator belt and raise the alternator. By using a 611 belt you don't have this potential problem).

Final drive bearing and seal.

And last but not least ...... The small "O" rings used on the fuel Q/D's. :D
 
At 46k you should be fine I reckon anyway. I take a FD bearing + seal + enough FD oil to refill, slave cylinder, fuel pump, belt, lots of puncture repair stuff (and know how to use it), a HES, a lower UJ, lots of cable ties and gaffer tape and a small bag of spanners + the specials like the 12mm hex and 30mm socket with a breaker bar.
 
Steptoe said:
Some things can fail, and are a pain in the arse but you can still ride to the next town or to where you can get help.
A fine example of this is a clutch slave cylinder. You can ride any distance without having to use the clutch.
Start the bike in neutral pointing downhill, let it roll and snick it into gear, then use clutchless gearchanges.
If you're on flat ground, again start the bike in neutral paddle it along and snick it into gear and away you go.

Essentials..
Take a used (but you know that works 100%) hall sensor.

Alternator belt (the longer 611 belt, and check if you have the shorter 592/582 belt fitted. They make the alternator sit low against the top of the engine case, and on many bikes you can't fit the adv tank link pipe through unless you remove the alternator belt and raise the alternator. By using a 611 belt you don't have this potential problem).

Final drive bearing and seal.

And last but not least ...... The small "O" rings used on the fuel Q/D's. :D
Click to expand...

CHEERS - ive got the QR fuel connectors so top tip there.
My adventure had the optional smaller tank fitted when built so no worries there hopefully.
Will check alt belt etc.
Motorworks are sending me a coil pack out so thats fixed - the one that was sent to me previously ended up being for a single spark primary and was feckin useless to me.
 
I'd pull the plugs from both the steering head bearing and the telelever pivot bearings above the cylinders. Mine contained an attractive oxide coloured water, probably a result of off-roading and fording floods. Mileage was higher as well. Relatively simple though a bit of a pain to replace. Obviously check the swing arm and paralever bearings as well. Check the hydraulic hose for corrosion were it joins the clutch slave cylinder.

Remember to take a drift for removing the rear disc pad fixing pin and a spare spring clip for it.

IIRC the standard tool kit doesn't have an Allen driver for the bolts to split the FD if you need to change the big bearing at the road side.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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