Malta on foot

[King Rat]

Light day today. Early morning swim,



long, lazy breakfast then wandered up to the Saluting Battery. It has changed a bit since I photographed it for the Tourist Board in 2004, they had just revived the tradition after laying it off in fhe 80s. When it first came back on stream they had a full gun team on the gun and used a powder charge in the primer hole, lighting it with a splint. I'll dig the picture out when I get home.

After the salute we popped in to an art exhibition for an hour.







The art gallery is free to get in. There were several other exhibitions but we needed to get to the bus stop for the neolithic temples at Haga Qim. They were closed for the day! It was a bit of a bus tour to see other parts of the very crowded island.

Back in Valetta we studied the bus time tables and routes. No. 3 tomorrow morning for Kalkara. Then a bit more wandering.




Grand Master of the Knights of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem. Leader of the Langue de Provence. He ordered the building of the fortress city after leading the defence of the Great Siege of Malta against the Ottoman Turks. The city is named after him in honour of his travails.




The history ooses from every rock pore. There is so much to learn about this historic island.

 

[King Rat]

You said, yesterday, has it been a long day? A good one though, I hope.

Just wanted to make sure you were paying attention!

 

[King Rat]

Another prebreakfast swim. Healthy choices from the vast options, loads of mixed fresh fruits, yoghurt and prunes to try and help the situation, freshly fried eggs to order if you want them, I went for poached. No bacon or sausages, beans and tomatoes, no carbs.
Then we caught the bus to Kalkara to visit grandad in the Naval cemetery at Capuccini, plot B127.










Interesting to learn that the Japanese were our allies in WW1.

Then we walked about a mile to see Fort Rinella and the 100 ton gun. It was closed. Again, the concierge didn't tell us after telling us which bus to catch.



So we caught the bus back to Valetta for some lunch, procured from breakfast. Cheese, tomatoes, some raisin swirls, muffins and more fruit. Then we found a beer in a quiet, very plush cafe...


From here we hatched a plan. Decided on the Combined Forces HQ that orchestrated the war in N. Africa, the defence of Malta and Operation Husky, the invasion of Sicily.
Lascaris War Rooms, Valetta.










It is vast, we spent about 3 hours and only saw 1/10th of it.... closing time came but they are allowing us back to complete the visit tomorrow, which is just as well because even with OAP discount tickets were £50

 

[King Rat]

Tonight dinner in the town hall, Anna had seafood spaghetti. I had the rabbit special, the house wine was very good.






After dinner we were given a firework reception (video to follow!)

There is a festival coming up, the basilica was all lit up.

 

[King Rat]

Finished off the ops room tunnels this morning. The complexity of coordinating it all is staggering.







Lunch in the sunshine again.

Someone in the docks has a sense of humour....



After lunch we did 'The Malta Experience'. A documentary film timeline from 8000 years ago giving the history of Malta. Then a tour of the hospital of the Knights of the Order of St. John. Staggering the organisation and medical knowledge in the 1500s. For instance they had individual beds, screened for privacy and prevent cross contamination, each with their own latrine and proper ventilation. Amputation was by guillotine sword - quick and clean. Bleeding quarterised in hot tar to prevent infection. Wounds treated by cleaning with salt and promoted using honey.




Back to get a snooze before eating.

 

[King Rat]

Usual swim/splashy floundering then breakfast. Walked to the bus station and caught the number 53 to Rabat. At least we had a seat, the bus was rammed like sardines with at least 25 people standing.
Hopped off and walked to the ancient capital Mdina.














The streets are from the 15th C and narrow. The straight bits are only as long as an arrow can fly, for defensive purposes.



Interesting the road width sign is still in Imperial. Then we had a beer looking out over the view from the ramparts, or bastion as they call it. Lunch in a quiet park between Mdina and Rabat. Then walked to look round a bit of Rabat.

 

[Robbi]

Usual swim/splashy floundering then breakfast. Walked to the bus station and caught the number 53 to Rabat. At least we had a seat, the bus was rammed like sardines with at least 25 people standing.
Hopped off and walked to the ancient capital Mdina.
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The streets are from the 15th C and narrow. The straight bits are only as long as an arrow can fly, for defensive purposes.

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Interesting the road width sign is still in Imperial. Then we had a beer looking out over the view from the ramparts, or bastion as they call it. Lunch in a quiet park between Mdina and Rabat. Then walked to look round a bit of Rabat.

Fantastic . Great photography, thanks for posting.

 

[King Rat]

Rabat was much like Mdina, but much cheaper! Tourist traps have very inflated prices, in Mdina prices were aimed at rich cruise tourists. Eye-watering, consequently we spent precisely, nothing. Every door had a price ticket to go through. We found the door knockers interesting though.




A street in Rabat, very much like Mdina!



You can get a tour on a vintage bus from Valetta bus station. It was waiting for the victims to return! A beautiful old Thames Trader.




So we caught the bus back to Valetta for our snooze. We must be getting old! G&T on our balcony before heading back to the Social Club for seafood spaghetti and a glass of local wine. 2 plates of spaghetti, 1/2of Excel and a small glass of white...£40 thank you very much. I wish we had known before booking - Canary Motorcycle Tours is cheap in comparison. It is a fabulous, historic place but not like it used to be. We were totally unprepared and under funded. We have enough saved for dinner tomorrow though!

 

[King Rat]

Today we did very little but walk about and sit and take it is easy on a bench by the marina overlooking the harbour. Our walk down to the ferry took us through the Barakka gardens, rather than take the lift we negotiated the 128 steps (yes, we are sad enough to count them!) We loved going on the family owned, traditional Maltese gondola. The brightwork was revarnished every 4 months because of the sun and the wear and tare tourists place on the woodwork - getting aboard without wiping grit out of their soles, or zipped back pockets, or jeans with rivets all conspire to leave scratches. Our gondoliers appreciated us wiping our soles with our hands before we got aboard. After watching us he mentioned it. Having owned an all varnished, wooden, classic boat we knew the problem.




We found where we had left the yacht we misplaced. I had forgotten all about it, in the same way Angel forgot she had a house!



On the subject of yachts, Paul's was looking well cared for.



Sat and a couple of beers.




Then caught the next available water taxi/ gondola back across from the 3 cities to Valetta.




A nice relaxed day doing very little. At least we missed the fire alarm, but the 16.00 gun was perfectly timed for our arrival at the top of the Barakka lift.

Packed now and heading out to Kantina for a seafood chowder and tapas to use up what we have left. We might have enough for a beer aswell.

 

[brut33]

If you want to go to a novel establishment it's worth paying a visit to The Pub in Valletta for a beer or two. It was the last place Oliver Reed held a drink and famously popped his clogs trying to out drink a group of Royal Navy matelots. The ceiling is covered in white ensigns from visiting ships paying tribute to OR. I signed the visitors book about 15 years ago and raised a glass to Ollie.
Enjoy what's left of your time there and your photos are brilliant as usual.

 

[Micky]

Lovely report Simon, great photographs

Looking forward to more

 

[King Rat]

Early breakfast this morning, pack and then off for the 'underground Malta' tour.
When Valetta was built in the time of the Knights the street grid was mirrored below with narrow tunnels to afford escape and attack from behind. They also dug drainage tunnels and huge aquifers, like underground cathedrals, lined with marble tiles to enable the population to withstand seige. 30,000 lived down here through the war to escape the bombing., Each alcove housed a family, sometimes 10 people in such a small space. Cooking, toileting, the lot. What Malta endured is really brought home. After the war the displaced people continued to live down here while houses were rebuilt and rubble cleared.





The curved section of the roof is the ancient tunnel built by the Knights, those tunnels were enlarged in a matter of months to provide the shelters.




Some people scavenged tiles from bombed out buildings and lined their floors and walls to help keeping them clean. The walls and deckhand are all limestone so it is constantly dripping.



One of the alcoves to give an idea of the size.



As you can imagine, with the constant, 24-7 bombing above on a very religious background island people prayed hard and carved 'help' or succour. It was quite stifling atmosphere with just the 20 of us down there.


Spiral staircases were the only exits.


Fresh air again!

 

[Robbi]

An amazing place, you wouldn't want to suffer from claustrophobia!!

Thanks for this report KR, it's given us some ideas for next year

 

[King Rat]

Sat in the airport now. Flight delayed due to an emergency on the inbound. Estimated wait 3 hours. Duty Free very expensive, it is cheaper at home in Waitrose! Just goingvto sit and snooze.

 

[Simon_100]

What a fabulous report Simon!

 

[dean0n0]

I doubt the knights did any tunnelling, maybe supervising the supervisors.