Michelin pilot sport 6’s

[mpgscott]

These bloody wheels!

So I’ve got the new boots fitted and the treads look to run different front to back.

The rear tyre clearly shows an arrow and rear on it. Tyre fitter has assumed that the arrow points in the direction of travel but does it, is it pointing to the rear of bike and needs to be on the other side?

The front just has an arrow with no words.

However the treads look to run in opposite directions.

Can anyone confirm if the rear arrow is for pointing to the rear so reverse of normal..

 

[EPG_19]

The one that says rear with an arrow should point the rear of the vehicle

 

[EPG_19]

The one thay says front should point to the front of the vehicle

 

[T250Tut]

The arrow points in the direction of wheel rotation

 

[botus]

so long as you have the bevel on the right (like the early bikes) the rear looks correct and the front with the ABS sensor ring on the left also look OK.... the arrows don't show very clearly

and as mentioned, arrows of course always show the direction of wheel travel (when going forwards)

 

[Mistacat]

As stated the arrow points in the direction of wheel rotation so those look to be correctly fitted.

 

[er-minio]

Yes, arrow always in direction of rotation. They added the indication of which tyre is front and which rear, making things confusing.

Not surprising given some of the (confusing) nomenclature they have for car tyres, like the Michelin Pilot Sport family in all its S, and non S variations

 

[mpgscott]

so long as you have the bevel on the right (like the early bikes) the rear looks correct and the front with the ABS sensor ring on the left also look OK.... the arrows don't show very clearly

and as mentioned, arrows of course always show the direction of wheel travel (when going forwards)

Thanks guys, yes the arrows running in the direction of rotation.

I read that Michelin Road tires, and many others, are designed with the tread in opposite directions (front/rear) and are meant to be mounted that way. It’s to prevent hydroplaning in wet conditions.

Now to work out why my TPMs sensors are not working. Codes in so not sure.

 

[jefformston]

The one that says rear with an arrow should point the rear of the vehicle

Wrong!! Arrow is direction of rotation

 

[EPG_19]

Wrong!! Arrow is direction of rotation

Not if it says rear or front

Unless Michelins own website is wrong?

 

[Gavla04GS]

I have PR 6 and I too thought the front was on back to front, they all do that Sir.....

As for TPMS doesn't it need to get up to speed/few wheel rotations?

 

[mpgscott]

I just phoned up Michelin and they confirmed that the arrow is the direction of rotation, they said they had a number of phone calls and its because the front and rears cant be mixed up. God knows why, thats what the size is for i always thought. Anyway mine are on correctly and the tread patter will oppose one another and its for, t hydroplaning as Nina told me, it also agrees with the image of the tires side by side on their site.

Hopefully this is helpful for others.

Thanks as always for the responses.

Mark
.

 

[botus]

those tyres are serious money - how's it feel ?

I find road tyres can make for some strange changes in the front end feel of the GS telelever setup

the world has moved away from the UK Dunlop stiff sidewall fronts - that was once what all Bike tyres had. It remained normal with the road smart RS1, RS2 or RS3 - These days we have a big change - It was there on the earlier Pilot 3 and now the RS4 - its where we have the USA style, understeer wins attitude (so long as the software and super glue compound is new). But for me this mushy fexi stuff feels super weird on my 57 plate GS

I waited 4 years (with covid) to try the RS4 and it lasted less than a week - so dangerous back on the RS3...
Long posts of me being shouted at re this on here, but it doesn't stop the facts... the Gist was

the Original Metzerler Tourance - gave by far the best steering feel of any I have tried - but provided zero grip, and no reassurance it would ever do its job
I tried a Bridgestone BT23 and it was wild - so heavy at low speed and went from under, over, under, oversteer more times than you could imagine in a single corner
Dunlop RS1 - safe, more grip than either of the others - but flexi forks on high speed direction changes
Mich PS3 like the Bridgestone, lots of tyre pressure got the thing safe enough to ride - but spent most of the 4k miles I had it with the back wheel 2 foot in the air
Dunlop RS2 miles better and safer than any above - and you could go far faster - as the back wheel stayed where its meant to under braking
Dunlop RS3 almost normal
Dunlop RS4 all the nightmares of the BT23 came back to kill me
Second RS3 rides OK unless cold , serious doubts it has any grip below 5C - this winter front was doing random can't be bothered tricks in slow speed stuff
Dunlop TrailMax Meridian - odd name but seems normal - makes you wonder if the road stuff behaves on a GS the way 5 out of those 6 did - don't meddle

​

 

[mpgscott]

Not done any noticeable distance yet, but to a pretty sedate rider i found the PS4 and PS5 great on both the blade and my GS. These honestly feel sticky to the touch straight off. Read a fair bit on other forums for Yam's and Honda's that people are getting crazy miles out of the new 6s without any squaring off.

Im due to do a good distance in the coming weeks so will report back when get some miles on them.

Aye, they aint cheap, i was £320 fitted for the two..

 

[jefformston]

Not if it says rear or front

Unless Michelins own website is wrong?

Looks like it is!

 

[seahorse]

'Long posts of me being shouted at re this on here, but it doesn't stop the facts'

Same as before they are not facts, just your own opinions.

Tedious twat.

 

[mpgscott]

I have PR 6 and I too thought the front was on back to front, they all do that Sir.....

As for TPMS doesn't it need to get up to speed/few wheel rotations?

Fingers crossed on the TPMs, need to get some miles on it.

Today I tried activating the known good alloy wheel TPMs with the wake up tool and nothing showing on the dash. So ordered a new wake up tool to check worth it for a tenner.

 

[botus]

you can ride the bike at they should wake up - here's a reliable method I have used many times

you have to link the Bluetooth code of the new TPMS sensor to the bikes brain...

I'm fed up hearing mumbo-jumbo it self learns the new id's... and fed up putting batteries in a wake up tool only for them to last 6 minutes and or the tool to die...

connect the ODB2 adapter to the phone (powering up via the bike's ODB2 socket) - if its an old fossil you’ll need the 10 pin adapter lead
fire up the app go in RDC module and check current codes 6 or 7 digits and note the current stored codes and which end is which - then delete them - now go get your spare key !!!!!!

ride the bike waking up the sensors riding a mile or two above 40 mph- you'll now have 15 mins to do this next bit

get back to base and stall the bike, leaving the key and kill switch in run position - use spare key to get the seat off, plug in the tool and fire it up - noting the sensor id it now sees - and write this in the bikes brain and save

of course had anyone bothered to supply the BT codes (like a grown up would) you can just edit the number thats there with your new one

there might be an idiot mode by now - but I'm happy writing it in like a grown up
its much easier to code to the bike before you fit it in the wheel - as you can spin it up taped on the inside of the rear wheel of another bike - that you keep 10m away from the bike you need to work on

 

[mpgscott]

you can ride the bike at they should wake up - here's a reliable method I have used many times

Thanks for this, which obd tool are you using?

Mines the old round 10 pin but I currently only have my GS911.

Is it Motoscan? Can you recommend a cable/BT dongle that will work?

Tganks
Mark

 

[botus]

I just read he reccos his own dongles - so the old UCSI2000 - which does everything on a BM but hates toyota - or the current UCSI2100 - which is now considered by the car nuts as one of the best BMW comms devices out there - or ODBlink LX or MX - on the ODBLink ones I'd go for the sillier money MX+

youtube arguing - review of the adapters made by the same lot that make motoscan