Morocco: 'A piste too far' tour

Tim Cullis

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Putney, London and the Altiplano de Granada
France and Spain
A rather leisurely high-speed dash


How can something be both high-speed and leisurely? When there's a group of ten or eleven riders trying to keep together. I couldn't get on the same Eurotunnel as the rest of Steptoe's group, so left Eastbourne at 0450 to catch the 0700 Speedferries crossing to Boulogne (£19 each way). As I was a good couple of hours ahead of the group I then ambled down the coast on side roads. The group never did catch up and in the end I travelled by myself as far as Bordeaux (620 miles from home) where I had secured six twin bedrooms for the eleven riders.

We left around 0700 the second day and travelled on through Spain. 'Novice' and I became separated from the rest of the group when he pulled in for a sandwich and I followed to keep him company. Of the remaining nine riders, three stayed overnight at Jaen and six at Granada. Novice and I ended up another 40 miles further on having covered 730 miles that day.

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Look Ma, I'm in Morocco

On the third day eight of the group rendevoused at Algeciras for the 1000 crossing to Ceuta. The border crossing into Morocco was as chaotic as usual, and Fanum then led us on an interesting road south of Chefchaouen to Zoumi and then to Ouazzane.

I became separated from the group the second time when I gained a fly in my eye. After riding with one eye closed for a couple of miles I decided it would be safer to wash the eye in optrex. It seems nobody was aware I'd dropped off the back. I rode the remaining 70-80 miles solo to the Ibis Hotel at Fes where we'd discussed stopping, but nobody else turned up. There's been an ongoing problem since the New Year sending text messages in Morocco via Orange, so I was out of touch.

I stuck the bike in the secure parking compound at the Ibis, had a terribly expensive (80DH) tanjine and fell into bed.
 
Morocco: Middle Atlas
Lakes, monkeys, volcanos and snow


In the morning I spent some time re-routing my tank bag strap under the tank, then exited the secure parking. As usual, I still had my watch set to Spanish time, so my early departure of 0900 was in fact 0700 Moroccan time. It was extremely misty and cold in the lowlands around Fes, and the mist only cleared as the road rose towards Imouzzer.

I fancied covering new ground on this trip to Morocco (my third in less than a year), so turned east on to side roads to do a tour of the dayets (lakes) and bird sanctuary. What was once a dirt track is now a lovely metalled road and I meandered around taking in the scenery, coming out of the area near Ifrane, where I breakfasted. The modern part of Ifrane was built by the French in the 1930s in the style of an alpine ski resort. It's relatively cool during the hotter months and you can glimpse the King's summer palace hidden in the trees.

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Inside the Mischefflin

From there I headed east again to do a loop through 'The Mischefflin' an extinct volcano that in winter is a ski resort. It was then that I made the discovery that after having taken off the plastic side panel to thread through the tank bag strap, I'd left the tank panel at the hotel in Fes--Duh! Looks like another visit to Fes on the way back.

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Inside the Mischefflin

After playing in some snow I rejoined the main road to the south of Azrou where I watched a troop of macaques (Barbary Apes) playing in the cedar trees.

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No, I DON'T want to hire your sledge!

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Peanut overdose

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Sitting pretty

From there I headed south west through the cedar and holm oak forests via numerous aguelmanes (lakes in volcanic craters) on a tortuous route that eventually took me to Sources de l'Oum-er-Rbia, the springs that mark the start of Morocco's longest river.

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Aguelmane in a volcanic vent

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Kids swimming in the l'Oum-er-Rbia

When I rejoined the main road near Mrirt I stopped at the petrol station opposite the junction where I had a delicious tajine for lunch.

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Beef tajine with caramelised potatoes and onions

Just as I was finishing, Steptoe's group came wizzing past. They had left Fes some four hours after me and were riding the main roads on their way to Marrakech, so I joined on the back of the pack.
 
Morocco: High Atlas
Fantasia in the mountains


After losing Steptoe's group the third time, I decided to have a look at the Aït Bouguemez valley in the High Atlas (Aït means 'people of'). I left the main road to Marrakech just after Beni-Mellal and climbed to the Bin-el-Ouidane dam with its impressive hydroelectric plant.

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No hosepipe bans in Morocco

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Boats made from corrugated iron sheeting!

I was given the third degree by the soldiers guarding the dam who had apparently been pi$$ed off the previous day by a bunch of riders that had ignored the plainly visible 'no photos' signs (gee thanks, Timolgra). I was only allowed on my way after the soldiers had been through every single one of my photos to check I hadn't taken any of the dam.

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A scene from the past (with sat TV dish in background)

I then came across a regional festival (possibly the moussem of Moulay Aissa den Driss) involving many hundreds of people from the surrounding area, massive festival tents and three groups of altogether 50 or horsemen staging multiple fantasias. The fantasia is a demonstration of the techniques of horseborne warfare used by the Arabs during their conquests and at the end of the horsecharge everyone discharges their guns. I was the only European there but was made most welcome with cheery grins and waves.

LINK TO 7MB AVI VIDEO OF HORSE CHARGE (right click, save target to desktop, then view from there)
 
Tim Cullis said:
[

I was given the third degree by the soldiers guarding the dam who had apparently been pi$$ed off the previous day by a bunch of riders that had ignored the plainly visible 'no photos' signs (gee thanks, Timolgra). I was only allowed on my way after the soldiers had been through every single one of my photos to check I hadn't taken any of the dam.
)


A clearly visable sign that says 'no photos' means there's something worth photographing in my book ;)

The guy with the big gun wasn't too happy though, nor was his boss who made me erase the footage of the dam and sentry box etc. quite exciting for a while, thought I was about to visit my first Moroccan jail or worse :eek:
 
Morocco: High Atlas
A piste too far: one fall, two drops, one rotation and one submission


I overnighted at the friendly Tanout hotel in Azilal and the next morning set out at dawn heading east.

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Fortified graneries

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12 mph speed limit over the bridge

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Less on this one

After a while the road deteriorated and then as I headed south, became a well-surfaced gravel road, good for 40 mph.

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The Cathedral (sharp face ahead) is popular with rock climbers

Shortly after the 'Cathedral' came into view and I passed the Gite of the same name, I noticed a small sign to the left reading 'Imilchil 105 km'. This looked like a heaven-sent shortcut to the Gorges of the Dades and Todra, so without much hesitation I took the dirt track. Well, actually what happened was that I asked some local guy in French whether I could get to Imilchil on that track with my bike, and he replied "yes".

(At this stage Activmoto will undoubtedly butt in and remind me of the dangers of asking leading questions to people who don't want to show their ignorance of the answer. I'll also probably get it in the ear from friends when they read this for venturing into unknown territory alone, but hey, we are supposed to be adventure motorcyclists.)

Initially the track was smooth hard-packed earth meandering through trees, then it started to deteriorate.

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Suckered into the start with a smooth piste

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Riding on the right here

Loose rubble in the middle of the track meant that in many places I couldn't easily cross from one side to the other, and had to keep within one tyre width--preferably the one furthest from the steep drops! The track climbed and climbed, and over my 25 miles of penetration went from 3800' to 5300'.

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Although generally climbing there were many descents

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The only decent bridge

I started to get nervous at one stage, focussing too much on the ground in front with the predictable result of falling off the bike--a bit of a wake-up call.

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Broken indicator mended with gaffer tape, no other damage

Most of the streams coming down the side of the mountains were fortunately dry, but nevertheless there were a couple of massive boulder fields to cross. The only option was to power through with the rear wheel bucking and weaving and much banging of stones from the bash plate. I now realise it was probably about here that I lost the engine bash plate. I dropped the bike towards the end of one crossing and bent the rear brake pedal. The next time I started the bike I found I only had residual braking. Hmmm, getting interesting.

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Look, no hands!

A couple of small streams were still running and I had difficulty getting traction up the other side; at one crossing some shepherds helped extricate the bike.

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I should have taken this one faster but it was an awkward angle

Then I came across the real stopper, a section of the trail with a massive spring running over it--a lateral uphill ford some 80 metres long. The stones were the size of half bricks and I lost momentum on the slippery surface. It was time to give up, but I found I couldn't move the bike.

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Hoist with my own petard

I unloaded the luggage--for the third time--and tried walking the bike out under power but I couldn't shift it. What was worse the effort involved in previous drops and the altitude was getting to me.

to be continued...
 
It's a bit off none of the others waiting for you when you got separated isn't it?.Not just the once either !! :tosser Feckers :nono
 
Wow a great part of Morocco I didn’t get to see.

Hi Tim I’m the one you meet last Monday on the ferry who had to keep slipping off to the loo until you diagnosed my symptoms. :thumb
Great Pics. Keep em coming :bow
 
That's the problem of riding with a big group. However, the third time was my decision to drop off the back.

Jinkxy: before someone gets the wrong idea, perhaps we had better made clear your problem was dehydration.

Tim
 
Tim I love the look of that short-cut...esp seated here at home in comfort...probably a wise decision you took not to replace that side plate on the tank....and maybe I should not have straightened my fork leg so soon before we head for the Picos!

Eagerly awaiting the next instalment!
 
Shurv said:
It's a bit off none of the others waiting for you when you got separated isn't it?.Not just the once either !! :tosser Feckers :nono

Hmm, rather irresponsible I say. :nono I know Tim is very experianced with travel in Morocco, but anything could have happened. :eek Well done Tim on pressing on "alone" :thumb

Good and interesting write up BTW. :clap
 
I considered my options. I was alone. By myself. Without help. 25 miles from the gravel track. 50 miles or so from the main road.

Then I remembered the words in Jupiter's Travels where Ted Simon breaks down by the side of the road (in India?) and wonders who will come to his rescue today.

Sure enough, eventually a wiry Berber woman about 75 years of age came to help. But even with two of us we couldn't move the bike on the wet stones--either forward or reverse. So there was no alternative but to use the skills learned on the off-road course--to lie the bike down on its side and rotate it round on the cylinder head (thank God for Touratech cylinder head protectors). She pulled one wheel, I pulled the other, we then got the bike upright again and were then able to walk the bike out under power down the ford.

I don't normally give money or sweets to kids, but often I carry a small jar of Marmite as a special gift. I didn't have one with me this trip, so I gave the old woman a postcard of Eastbourne with six different full-colour views of the pier, the cliffs, the seafront, the gardens and so forth. She seemed duly taken aback by my generosity and the postcard no doubt now has pride of place on her mantlepiece.

I started back but by now I was really knackered.

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And the piste goes on.

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And on. And on

I parked up in the shade and considered stopping on the trail overnight beside the bike. I had an emergency exposure sack, a head torch, sufficient food, drink, and warm clothes, but no lighter for a fire. I pulled out my iPod and some Red Bull and snoozed for an hour or so. I awoke refreshed and started on the long 25-mile extraction back to my starting point.

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Feeling chirpy now

Then I hit the evening rush hour with several 4WD vehicles, flocks of sheep and goat, and numerous donkeys. Unlike those on the main road, the animals were unused to bright red R1200GS enduro bikes, so I had to cut the engine, stop, and wait for them to pass. I even came across a troop of macquetes who scampered uphill (accidentally?) dislodging stones on my head. Eventually I made it out back to the gravel road just as the sun set.

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Sunset on the Cathedral

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Getting darker

I then had a fairly long night ride along the gravel road and over the mountains to El-Kelaa-des-Sraghna and a totally forgettable hotel.

more to come...
 
Apparently I don't understand the circumstances behind the others not waiting for Tim :nenau .My comments were intended as light hearted for those who may be offended :bow . :D :D :nono
 
More Please

All these Morocan adventure snaps are such a pleasant change from the Aussies going on about how sunny it is there. :D
Fantastic shots of the shortcuts.
 
Morocco: Telouet piste
Smashed 4x4s and overdeveloped gladiators


I worked out a temporary fix on the brake problem in the morning, then set off early again. Seeing as EasyJet are soon to start cheap flights to Marrakech I decided to skirt the city and head for the Tizi 'n Tichka pass towards Ouarzazate.

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Tichka Pass

Shortly after the top of the pass I turned east towards Telouet to visit the ruined pisé (mud/straw) buildings and lunch.

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Pisé lasts between 60 and 100 years, depending upon rainfall

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Storks nesting. Pseudo nomads driving 4WD vehicles sound alarm bells

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Chicken and olive this time

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Several threshing circles in view--for separating wheat from chaff

The road turns into a track (piste) which unfortunately over the years has become popular with 4WD clubs from Spain, and also locally hired 4WD vehicles from Ouarzazate.

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Sometimes, however, the track bites back.

This is the same route written up by Snoopy a few days ago, so I won't repeat, other than to say it's best done north to south as there's a long difficult descent with steps and loose stones that would be a real pain coming the other way. Having said that, that's the way the Czech guys did it.

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More 4WD on the way

There's a lot of (over)development going on at the southern end around Aït Benhaddou.

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Last year

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This year

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Aït Benhaddou, backdrop to Gladiator and other films

I was heading for Bikers' Home in Ouarzazate, a facility established by a Belgian guy called Peter and his Moroccan partner, Zenib.

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Bikers' Home is at the southern end of Ouarzazate

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Decent workshop

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View from the top floor

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Zenib and Thelma, a real bundle of fun

Whilst in Ouarzazate I took the time to visit Wilderness Wheels where, amongst other things, I discussed with Geordie owner Peter a certain mad Englishmen called Jon.

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Wilderness Wheels: Honda 250, 400 and quads for hire


more 'shortcuts' to come tomorrow.
 


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