Morocco trip January 08

xrv

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Hi all
Hope you don't mind a none BMW owner's ride report here....(it might get moved!!!) there is a bit of BMW in it though.


I had been planning this solo trip to follow a few of the Moroccan stages of the Dakar shortly after arriving back
home from a supported trip with www.MotoMorocco last September.
That was my first visit to Morocco and i enjoyed it so much that i couldn't wait to go back.
The Dakar seemed like a good excuse so i started to plan
To hear that it had been cancelled the day before it was due to start and the day before i was due
to leave was a kick in the goolies but i decided to at least ride down to Tarifa (not too far for me as i live in Spain)before deciding if i would "cross over".

Sat 5th Jan
Left early for the long ride down to Tarifa....was looking at a 6-7 hour ride.Cold start to the day that got
colder as i climbed up towards Granada.Got to 1370 metres and it was cold enough to freeze the balls off a brass monkey.


It warmed up as i headed down towards the coast,past Gibraltar and on to Tarifa.As i was in sight of Tarifa a sense of
excitment hit me as i looked over the straits of Gib to see the mountains of Morocco.I was following 2 German reg
bikes at this stage and decided to show off by standing on the pegs as i over took them on a sweeping downward
right hander......as i passed them i saw 2 Gaurda Civil police standing in the road flagging me down.Got a 63euro
on the spot fine for that.(I really am a tosser)
Stayed here for the night.34 euros single room with breekie.

Had a walk down to the port in the dark to see what was going on and was surprised to see loads of 4+4 off roaders,
a queue of bikes revving up ready to be first to ride up the ramp of the ferry and a massive truck.In the dark with all
the noise and smell of petrol i got fired up and was ready to take the following day's early ferry.
I had a walk round to find some food and spotted this place."El Motero" means "The Biker".The Isle of Man 3 legged symbol
caught my eye so i went over.

It turned out to be kebab shop...mmhhh!

I rolled up my left trouser leg,showed him my tatoo and asked him if i could have a discount.

No discount but we had a good laugh and chat about bikes and the TT.He knew loads about Joey Dunlop,Dave Jeffries,
Barry Sheen......

Sun 6th Jan.Up nice and early.Loaded the bike and rode the 400 metres down to the port.Within 5 minutes of entering
the port i had paid the 62euros for the single ticket and was being hurriedly ushered onto the ferry....before i knew what
was happening the bike was strapped down and i was on the deck looking back at Spain.


As we docked in Tanger and i was struggling with the rachet that held the bike firmly in place i noticed this guy and his friend.


This is a 650cc 1982 Ural back-end Honda front-end vegetable-oil powered bike that is going around the world to promote nuetral C02
transport.Eccentric!
His name is Henning and his friend is Simon riding a more usable Yamaha XT600.They were to be my Danish travelling companions
for the following 2 days.They were doing some filming on the way for a Danish TV station.
He also tried to ride a bike up Mt Everest a few years back.He got to over 5,000 metres i think before he fell out with his support
team and abandoned the attempt.Check out his site. www.ppo-mc-global-tour.dk

Some pics waiting at customs in Tanger



Got thru customs after about a 3 hour wait....during which the 3 of us decided to travel south together towards Casablanca.
Set off under dark skies with me leading.....little did i realise at the time that that would be the best place to be in this little group
as the smell from riding behind the Ural is like riding behind a chippie.
Headed south for a few hours before 2 of us needed to stop for fuel.In doing so we bumped into a bunch of Brit...and 1 Irish...bikers.

Turns out they all had their bikes trucked down to Malaga by BikeTruck and were doing a little tour.It also turned out it would'nt be the last
time we bumped into them.They got the name"The BikeTruck Gang"....
The Ural had to leave the motorway to find a superrmarket for his refuel.

[/[URL=http://travel.webshots.com/photo/2764561220083127559rUavCx]URL]

We headed off towards Casablanca turning off the motorway just north of Mohammedia at the Bouznika exit then turned left
onto the B322 where we found an apartment complex.We paid about 90euros between the 3 of us for a 2 bed.kitchen and garden flat for the night.

Mon.7th Jan.Next morning after the Ural was given the once over and a dollop of veg oil i took the lead and we headed for Marrakech via the new motorway.

[/[URL=http://travel.webshots.com/photo/2631862990083127559UrYtEp]URL]

We stopped in a service station for a coffee and saw the BikeTruckGang ride by.After a few more hours on the motorway we pulled off
onto the national road to head into Marrakech and after a while we saw some plumes of dust to our left and realised it was a small group of
bikers mucking about on a dirt track...so we rode over to check it out.It was a small group of the BikeTruck Gang who had decided to
break away from the rest of the group.We played around at off roading for a while

before the others got on the road while we found a
small muddy village for the Danish lads to take some footage for the documentary they were putting together.






Got into Marrakech and found the Ibis Hotel.
My room.


Parked bikes then had shower before going out for dinner in the square.Nightmare of a taxi ride there.The eating area there
is outside in the square and what with the hustle and bustle of the place,the steam from cooking food rising up into the air,
the smells,the brightly lit food stalls,street entertainers and drug pushers it was quite a surprise for my 2 Danish friends.
We ate in silence watching everything.No pics of that but the place has a lot of atmosphere.We let the waiter just bring
us a few different rounds of food because none of us had a clue as to what to order.Cost next to nothing.Another nightmare
taxi ride back to the hotel and a couple of cold beers.We spoke about riding over the Tizi n Tichka pass and having lunch
there the following day.

Tues.8th Jan.Up early for breakfast.Paid bill for single room.About 40euros.Stashed some breakfast goodies into a bag for
later before i took the lead following my gps and getting lost before finally getting onto the N9 heading for the hills.About halfway
there i was passed by a KTM990 and 640 so i chased them.I caught and passed the 640 and stayed on the 990's tail.That was a great ride.It turned out to be the Bike Truck Gang AGAIN.



After a while we had all grouped up again and i became last man.As we were going thru a really twistie section
the Ural took a fall on a blind hairpin bend.I came round just after and almost run into him.No damage was done other than the riders pride.Remember!
This man had ridden halfway up Mt. Everest.
One of the BikerTruck Gang rode back and stopped any oncoming traffic while i helped pick the bike up.That thing weighs a ton!
We all set off again up to the summit where the BikeTruck Gang headed on to Quarzazate while we stopped for lunch.



I also swapped bikes with Henning and rode up for the last few miles.

Not the type of bike i would want to travel too far on.

Its here i said good bye to Henning and happily gave him his bike back for his return trip to Marrakech.His friend Simon on the Yamaha XT was coming
with me to do some serious off road riding down to Ait Benhaddou.I had taken this route last September with www.MotoMorocco.com.
After leaving the summit heading towards Quarzazate you find a track on the left about 1 or 2 miles from the top.This takes you towards Quarzazate
off road.After the first 10 miles of gravel track you hit about 20 miles of serious off road riding.
Quite difficult for a newbie on a big bike.....this time i managed to do it with a full load of luggage and rear tyre strapped on the back.I know a man who
did it 2 up with his girlfriend...what a brave girl!



We arrived at Ait Benhaddou tired and thirsty.This is where the film Gladiator was made.
It was getting late now so i said goodbye to Simon as he headed on back to Marrakech via
the tarmac route to catch up with
his friend for the rest of their trip.
It seemed i was alone for the first time since i arrived in Morocco.I stopped for lunch.
then headed the 15 odd miles into Quarzazte to find a hotel.As i was riding round
checking out the hotels,4 or 5 bikers pulled me over and asked me if i knew where a certain hotel was.I told them i didnt but was
looking for one myself so could i follow.No problem!When we arrived at the hotel i realised it was the BikeTruck Gang again.We had dinner
together in what turned out to be a completely empty hotel.The following morning Gnasher needed a bump start as his battery
must have been as old as his 20 year old steed


They all set off for Zagora while i decided to stay another night before heading south west to Tan Tan.
Anyway...i was not gonna ride with this bike 'cause i think this is abit OTT.....!



JOKING!



Great job.The fella who owns this is gonna ride in the Heroes and Legends next March i believe.


One of the group,Paul,said he might come back to join me for the 2 day trip i planned down
to Tan Tan.I didnt expect to see him again but at 6 that evening he came back as he didn't
want to head back to Malaga as the rest of the BikeTruck Gang were planning.
During my day in Quarzazate i got the rear tyre put on at Wilderness Wheels for 15euros.
Very profesional too.I was very impressed when he pulled out his botttle of talcum powder
and put in in the tyre before the new tube went in.He never had a 24mm socket to take the
rear off but luckily i had brought one with me which i had back in the hotel.A short quad ride
there and back meant he had the tools to do the job.

He made it look so fcuking easy.

I had abit of fun messing about on the local roads after.
[/URL !]
[URL=http://travel.webshots.com/photo/2610489820083127559VdDcBO]


A Kawasaki 750 flew by me while i was taking some pics.Later i found these two both at the side of
the road staring down at this.


I gave them a cargo net i had with me to hold the rear cowling on as the shredded tyre knocked it off.
They didnt seem to appreciate it.I said be careful,jumped on the bike and left them in a dust cloud as
i spun the rear wheel(accidently...) in their faces for not showing any signs of thanks.I almost took the cargo net
back off them...ungrateful gits.(they were very shifty)
Anyway,i headed back to the hotel feeling i was alone for the first time.I was having dinner when i heard
Paul pulled up on his BMW Dakar 650.
Still not alone it seems.


More Later.
Thanks for reading this far...sorry about the layout,not to hot on picture posting.
 
A great trip and a stella report:thumb

That custom paint job made me spit coffee all over my keyboard, why would anyone want to do that:nenau
 
Thanks for posting your report, enjoyed reading it :thumb2

That paint job is very wrong :D
 
Good to see your stuff Dean.

Looking forward to the rest.
 
Good morning from a balmy,sunny Spain.
Heres some more stuff from my trip.

Thurs. 10th Jan.
Had dinner with Paul the night before and chatted
about the trip down to Tan Tan.
Paul was a Londoner with a posh accent...
about 60 years old with a kids sense of adventure...
he had no plans at all except MAYBE going to Cape Town...
a very talkative and funny guy.

I had planned this trip as a solo venture but up to this point
had not been solo very much.....thats what i like about SOLO trips....
you are never alone for long as being SOLO makes you so much more approachable by others......you either have that "Billy no mates"
aurora or the "intrepid adventurer aurora"....still not sure which one i had!!

Anyway...Paid for the 2 nights hotel accom.



...about 80euros for 2 nights...then the pair of us set off south towards Foum Zguid via the N10 and R111.We came across this fuel stop built
for an american film.My first thoughts were to stop smoking the waccy baccy.




Had lunch at Foum Zguid then fuelled up and carried on towards Tata on the N12
Had a bit of a scare when i thought my ex and her 2 sisters had followed me out here.




Heres Paul and his BMW Dakar.I had a ride ot it and thought it was very nice.


Stopped in Tata for a coffee then decided to carry on to Akka before refueling.
Bad move as there was no fuel there.We asked the local police how far to next
fuel and they told us about 30kms so we carried on.Turned out we either missed
it or the police lied.(or Paul's French wasn't as good as it sounded)As we left Akka it was beginning to get dark so we were hoping
to find a hotel on the way.No luck until Taghjicht.By the time we reached this tiny
village i had rode 227 miles since my last refuel....things were getting desperate
for Paul as he only had a 17litre tank and had been on reserve for the last 30miles.
We were both riding at about 40mph to conserve fuel.....i had my reserve to go onto
which i think would give me another 30 odd miles.If thats the case then the
Africa Twin could go more than 260 miles between fuel.
We eventually came across a hotel as we entered Taghjict on the left.We were both
hungry cold and tired and the hotel seemed ideal.The following morning we realised it
was a complete shit hole.Though at the time it was heaven...even though i slept with my
clothes on.
The following picture doesnt convey the sense of relief or humour.Paul had ridden
about 320 miles since leaving Quazazate only to arrive at the hotel and crash into a sofa....
i was pissing myself laughing.

Paul's face says it all.

We had some food and cold beers before going to our pit.Next morning we were up and out early...
it was very cold.
Bill please....about 20euros each including food and beers.Notice the sofa has been put back in
its original position



Fri.11th Jan.
Our plan was to get Paul and myself some much needed fuel.100 yards down the road we found this place.


We both got a couple of litres that would at least get Paul to the next clean fuel stop.
The man tried to charge us 1500 dirhams which is a hell or alot of money for 4 litres.
We ended up paying 52 dirhams after explaining his mistake.The man seemed completely
stoned at 8 a.m.
We arrived at Bouizarne an hour later where we could refuel and eat.

We continued south west to Guelmim.This was going to be a stage for the Dakar.After more
coffee and some shopping we continued on to Tan Tan then the beach at El Quatia where we found a camping/bungalow site.
We stayed here for 2 nights.

We spent the day doing nothing.....chilling out on the beach.Paul had this cool little travel computer...tough as you like.

Brought a photo of my best friend.She went to the big kennel in the sky last May.

Later we went for a ride and found beach riding is hard work.
Luckily for me these kids came to help dig me out of the sand.Paul had gone off and found
his own problems in the sand.


Later that day we decided beach riding,with or without air in the tyres was just too bloody
hard so we found a piste that followed the coast.

I gave Paul my camera and explained how to use the zoom.He didnt listen.






Sun.13th Jan.Paul was undecided where to go......I had come as far south as i wanted and was considering my route back north.
Paul had a nice surprise the previous night when a bunch of old British reg. cars came onto the site.



They were the Plymouth to Banjul charity car run....on their way to Dakar.That was enough for Paul.
He went with them and i havent heard from him since.By 9 that morning i was alone.
More to come.
 
Final installment

Sun.13th Jan.Said goodbye to Paul as he headed off south with the Banjul Gang and then i packed and paid for the bungalow ready to go.
Two nights with breekie about 70euros.Decided to head up to Guelmim on the piste we were on yesterday.It was very very misty so i took
a right turn on to another piste and Headed to Tan Tan.


At the entrance to Tan Tan.Can you see the camels in the mist?



On the road north from Tan Tan


Uneventful ride up to Guelmim.The mist soon cleared.Fueled in Guelmim then headed towards Tiznit on the N1 where i stopped for the
obligatary tangin lunch.Onwards to Agadir.Lovely tarmac road all the way.Following the gps it took me through Agadir at rushhour.Slow
and noisy after a nice ride.Got through the centre and onto the coast road.It was getting on abit now and i was feeling tired.The road
is really good although i couldn't appreciate it as i had had a long day in the saddle.I got as far as Tamri before i found a hotel for the night.

Parked up for the night.

View from Bedroom window.


Some Moroccan scaffolding.


Mon.14th Jan.Paid early and left.They tried to charge me less than 15 euros for a clean room(shared bathroom)beautiful
dinner and a big breakfast.
I said it sounded too cheap so they increased it to 16euros.I gave the night watchman some change and left after a good
nights sleep and a belly full of good food for just over a tenner.....sorted!

The day started clear with a few dark clouds on the horizon.I found myself back on the road that the night before i couldn't
appreciate.Today i could....and i was in the groove.What a wonderful road.Even though the bike was loaded with its panniers,
large Ortlieb bag and tyre(i was still carrying the old one....just for appearances sake!:mcgun)i was flying through these beautiful curvy
ashpalt roads...and the bike felt as light as a feather...turning into the corners with such ease,almost no traffic in my direction,
the bike was straining at the leash.It felt absolutley perfect.I was setting it up into the corners...knocking it down a gear...listening
to the exhast barking away,and then down another gear,letting the engine do the breaking,sometimes just dabbing the front brake
and letting the custom made stainless steel brake hoses earn their money.I was hanging off the ****ing bike entering some of
those wide open bends...left arse-cheek sliding to the left then over to the right as the bike followed.Hairs on my neck standing up
as i booted an Africa Twin out of fast corners as much as it is possible to boot one out of fast corners.Was i gonna step off this bike
talking Italian like Rossi...or Spanish like Marc Coma? ****ed if i knew but i was having the best ride of my life and i knew it.

What a bike...and what a great tarmac road.The N1 between Agadir and Essaouira.

After a while i had to stop for a rest and wallow in the adrenalin rush.
Took these pics after a 20dirham negociation.Then he let me have a farrow....
hard work mate,i can tell you.Should have got a pic of that...






I carried on riding towards Essaouira but took a left turn after Had Smimou which took me onto a piste.The reason i took this track is,obviously to do
some trail/piste riding, but also to look for the ruins of an old Arab fort.I remember reading a story of some white sailors being shiwrecked off the coast
of Maurutania 200 years ago and sold as slaves.They ended up here after walking from Mauratania.Anyway....didn't find that but stumbled across this
in Diaba.





Jimi Hendrix lived in Diaba for 5 years back in the 60s,he used to come here.
The owner proudly told me he slept on the floor in this room for 10 days....not sure if he woke up during those 10 days.


That was unexpected.Contemporary history innit!
Had a coffee then followed track into Essoauira.Dossed about the port for half hour before hitting the road again towards Casablanca.
The clouds had come in from the sea now and covered all the coast line.That was my direction.I felt a drop of rain on my
lip which made me feel alive...as though
i needed rain on my lips to make me feel alive after the ride
i had just had.I was still buzzing from that.Had a
choice to make here.
Follow the slow coast road,take the slightly faster N1 or head towards
Marrakech in the direction of the clear blue sky then a fast dash up the
motorway to Casablanca,hopefully avoiding the threat of rain.
I let my left
thumb decide...as i got onto the road out of Essaouira i passed the coast road without indicating left and continued up to the junction of the N1.
Left thumb hit the switch so i turned left onto the N1.I wished i hadn't because it pissed down.I stopped 4 times because of rain.Each time having its own little story...
the old woman offering me a piece of plastic to keep dry...
the old man offering me mint tea..The Spanish speaking petrol pump attendant offering me yet more tea and telling me about his visits to Mecca...
and being surprised that i had never visited Jerusalem.....I got soaked.The tarmac became red with the mud from the tracks at the side of the road.
After what seemed like forever i found myself in the Ibis Hotel in El Jadida cold,hungryand wet.
From this point on my journey home would be by motorway to Tanger.It was also at this point i felt like the trip was over.I only had the motorway to look forward to.

Tues.15th Jan.Nothing of interest between ElJadida and Tanger except a car crash on the motorway.One corspe at the roadside.....
Lots of speed traps around Rabat.
Straight through the line of "helpers and ticket sellers" in the port at Tanger.
Went into auto pilot at customs...no help...no probs.





Goodbye Tanger and Morocco



and Hello Spain



My trip back from Tarifa to Alicante was the worst trip of my life.70mph winds almost all the way.I arrived home shaking like a leaf.
I had a great Solo trip and met some good people.
Total mileage: 2695
Total in Morocco: 1826
Total days:10
Total cost: 1100euros including tolls,ferries,fuel,food,hotels and fines.Pretty cheap i thought.
Best bit of kit:Got to be the large Ortlieb bag.It was just so usable.
Best bit or equipment:Honda Africa Twin 750
(the BMW i rode was very comfortable and i was very impressed with it.Who knows?Maybe one day!..........................................)
Next trip planned:3 weeks to Norway and back April/May 08

PS Dakar 650 Paul has mailed me and said he got to Dakar with the Plymouth Banjul charity gang....his wife is flying out today.
__________________
2002 black rd07 with loadsa things on
 
Cheers Dean. :clap

(Best thing about a solo trip of yours is less photo's of you, you camera whore! ;)) :D
 


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