Hi replacing the clutch in my R1100GS n noticed MW offer a replacement clutch friction disc cheaper than the sachs one...anybody used their friction disc ? Cheers
Motorworks clutch plate
- Thread starter West coast gser
- Start date
Put it this way The one in the bike has lasted XXXXXX?? Miles
If you work out Cost per mile was the OE one expensive
Whilst I really do like the folks at MW
I prefer not to have to split a bike if the part fails AND be aware only the part is warrantied
Not the labour to replace if I recall correctly !
Fit OE and Also Fit an OE rear crank Seal!! Don't use the MW one there is an outer felt washer that obscures your vision of if it is in right or not!
If you work out Cost per mile was the OE one expensive
Whilst I really do like the folks at MW
I prefer not to have to split a bike if the part fails AND be aware only the part is warrantied
Not the labour to replace if I recall correctly !
Fit OE and Also Fit an OE rear crank Seal!! Don't use the MW one there is an outer felt washer that obscures your vision of if it is in right or not!
About nearly 100k ..the guy had a look n He said the rear seal is fine ,what he did say was replace the pushrod as its alloy to the later steel one with the felt pad ,also the thrust piston release bearing I was up earlier n had a look at the bike the clutch disc is well worn and also the diaphragm spring the rest of it looks servicable ..just very dry n dusty
I’m not an expert and would defer to J but I wouldn’t split only to replace disc. Replace the lot. JJH
It's split cos the gearbox needs rebuilt so will replace clutch disc n spring as both.were worn seeing as it's in half
Being honest with you Whilst it ain't leaking now at 100 K it may very well start soon!
Just another 20 mins fits the seals and you only need the 5 crank bolts and the seal(s) as extra parts and the gearbox is getting new seals anyway ???
The clutch is a quick fix but the gearbox and Seals are messy and a pain if they quit
See, I’m of the opposite view. In my experience rear crank seals rarely leak. If it isn’t leaking or showing signs of leaking I leave them be.... the last few I’ve had to replace is where a customer has fitted one after replacing their own clutch and thought “while I’m in here I might as well replace the perfectly good rear crank seal”. And then the new seal leaks shortly after. it’s a funny old world. 
... same as when I do a clutch on the 1200 models, if the crank seal is dry, I don’t touch it, but the seal I do replace is the balance shaft seal, which outnumbers rear crank seals leaking 20 to 1 on the 1200 models.
... same as when I do a clutch on the 1200 models, if the crank seal is dry, I don’t touch it, but the seal I do replace is the balance shaft seal, which outnumbers rear crank seals leaking 20 to 1 on the 1200 models.The guy said it's not leaking n dry behind clutch ,fair amount o cack in there tho but suppose wi it doing 100k there will be plus not having the timing plug in rain n moisture n water after washes will have found its way in ....that's my way of thinking if it's not leaking don't touch ...See, I’m of the opposite view. In my experience rear crank seals rarely leak. If it isn’t leaking or showing signs of leaking I leave them be.... the last few I’ve had to replace is where a customer has fitted one after replacing their own clutch and thought “while I’m in here I might as well replace the perfectly good rear crank seal”. And then the new seal leaks shortly after. it’s a funny old world.
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