Motronic Fault Codes

Rob Farmer

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Being a controls Engineer by occupation I hate the idea that there is something on my bike that I'm not privvy too. Has anybody tried the fault code diagnotic tools from Halfords? or had any experience with any other diagnostic software or tools to get at these codes.

I know on the earlier motronic cars you could get the service light to flash the codes by pressing the accelerator 5 times just after the ignition was turned on. This was removed on later models, if the motronic can be forced into giving out a code then I can soon come up with hardware/software to read this data.

I'm going to start looking into the motronic unit. If anybody has any info that can give me a head start it would be appreciated.

Thanks

Rob Farmer
95 R1100GS
R80GS
Loughborough
Leics
 
Rich,

Just been out to test the connections. According to Haynes manual the flying lead is the ABS test socket (blue cap with 3 wires behind fuse box).

Pin 1 on the flying lead (brown with black tracer) goes to DL (on motronic) has no voltage at any time.

Pin 2 on Flying lead (brown with blue tracer) goes to ABS unit has 12V at all time.

Pin 3 (brown with green Tracer) goes to DPE (on Motronic) has no voltage at any time.

your instructions imply that pin 1 should be 12v initially. is this correct?

My bike has an ivory coloured coding plug I've tried the connections with the plug in and out.

any ideas?

Rob
 
greetings from sunny notts

as far as i can remember thats correct.

its not a voltage you are after, but by going through the procedure the brain then sends the appropriate signal.

i will send you a PM with my tel no. give me a call and i will gladly come over and go through it with you, we can use my bike first if you want, i was nervous the first time about screwing with the expensive brain.

all the best
rich
notts
 
Rich,

Great idea and No! I'm not nervous at all about screwing with your bikes expensive brain.

:beerjug: I'll get the beers in.

Rob
 
If anybody wants to try this it works a treat! Just remember to have your kill switch in the 'on' position and the side stand 'up'.

Cheers Rich (master of the BMW mind meld)
 
Did you fellas use a digital meter or an analogue one?

I ask, as the link goes to lengths saying to use an analogue meter and I really couldn't see the difference, apart from seeing the needle swing the voltage would/should swing up and down.

Or is there something I don't know about.

Mick.
 
greetings from sunny notts

i have never tried with a digital meter as i was led to believe (from a man at bosch) that a digital meter would react too quickly to the voltage changes for you to be able to take the reading, and as its not actually a voltage you are after, just a pulse the swing of an analogue meter makes it very easy to read.

does that sound about right rob ?

all the best
rich
notts
 
I've just tried using my Fluke meter. The initial voltage is 2.3 V this drops to 0V before rising to 12V, which is easy enough, After that it gets harder to read easily. The pulses are very difficult to count using a digital meter, since the pulses are very quick, much easier with an analogue one since all you have to do is count the times that the needle dips.

Maplin electronics do a small meter (part nos:- UZ82D Gen Purp Analog MM)for £9.99 but I have seen them in car accessory shops for a fiver. The accuracy of the meter does not matter since all it has to do is bounce up and down.

Rich has a nice little pocket meter thats ideal for the job. I've got an original AVO 8 thats more rucksack than pocket size.

Cheers

Rob
 


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