My dip and main have stopped working....

If it doesn't have one for indicators the other could be lights, and removing/shaking it may show if water has got in.

I sometimes use a thin nail, poked into the back of multi-connectors, to let me test for 12 volts. If there is no live-ness at any pin on the (lighting) switchgear connector then that would suggest the problem is further back.

Bring it to North Yorkshire!
 
Solved it....I think!

Having learnt the basics of multimetering I eventually figured the switch was the problem - I took the back of and found power was reaching it but I could only get one terminal to go live when going from off, to dip, to main...

Now the weird bit... I had a spare but the terminals that went live when I moved the switch did not match with how the old one was connected or needed to be connected inorder to make the lights and horn work (my kill switch is elsewhere) plus I had had two wires spare not connected ( the old switch had one spare)

Anyway it all seems to work - this week I'll get the tank back on and see if it's remains the same with the engine running.

All very odd....
 

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Excellent :thumb2 Being positive…

Learning how all the wires done when at home is good practice for when something happens in the middle of nowhere in the dark:D

I still remember the first time my moped (SS50) lights failed. It was riding a short-cut home through dark scary woods. I may have acted all grown up at 16 but I was petrified! :eek::eek::eek::eek:
 
....yeah we have light.

Since fixing I found my battery was going flat, I had change one of the relays and found it was a little warm so swapped it back

I'm really pleased with the simpson detour screen and twin Hella lights

Note: my MTB has a bigger front disc, stopping this thing is pure comedy. Read the trail and stamp it down through the gears is the way to do it.
 

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