Need some advice!

Slipperyeel

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Got myself down to the black forest today (the weather is much better down here!). Cross wind from hell most of the way!

Now here's my problem. Stopped to fill up in Mosel. When I came to start it I just got a clicking from the solenoid I then noticed the clock had zeroed itself. It bump started in an instance. Had the vibration loosened the main earth? Is thereone mainearth orseveral? I haven't taken the starter cover off yet to see if it's something obvious, but I would welcome any thoughts before I stay the cursing! :-)

Many thanks
 
I thought the battery was kinda new i.e. This year? But I guess that doesn't mean much of its misbehaving. Would be great if that's all it is! Cheers.

Oh, should mention. Is am 05 GSA with Servo.
 
I would start by checking the main earth on the battery for tightness and clean the terminals if required.
I'm not sure where the main chassis earth is, but I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will be along to tell very soon, hope this helps., good luck.
 
If your saying it's not the Battery, then it's probably the starter motor.

The original valeo starter motors have a habit of dropping the grease plate from the planetary gears inside the starter motor. This plate shorts out the windings of the motor. When you press the start button your battery shorts across the starter motor, with such a hugh current draw that the clock resets.

You get the clunk but no starter rotation. Sometimes the starter motor will rotate enough to move to a position where the grease plate is not touching. Sometimes you can here the horrible grinding noise, comming from the starter when it happens.

This could be your problem.

StaRter motor strip if you need it, with pictures showing the likely cause at the end.
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?207984-Starter-Strip
 
Battery is fucked.
I take it from your response you didn't fit it. If someone else did, did they? Or did they put one on For twelve quid.
 
Thanks Mr. I share your thinking. I'll go forthe obvious first, then the battery...
 
My mates 1100 starter motor dropped magnets at Russia this summer. Symptoms were just as dead battery and first they replaced it. However they managed to glue magnets to their places and got bike to Finland.
 
As Uncle Fester says check the connections first.

They need to be good and tight.

A loose connection will give high resistance, and prevent the full current from the battery getting to the starter motor.
 
My mates 1100 starter motor dropped magnets at Russia this summer. Symptoms were just as dead battery and first they replaced it. However they managed to glue magnets to their places and got bike to Finland.
I've had 3 starters go over the years,each time the consensus from the mechanics was the battery, each time it was the magnets :P I pushed the bike to a workshop once to beg a push start, the mechanics insisted on trying to use a long screwdriver to reach the battery wth the booster pack, the screwdriver glowed nicely before they could remove it :blast
 
another possibility is the "tight wiring over the headstock" problem where insulation wears away causing all sorts of weird & intermittent faults depending on which wire is affected. Simply fixed by cutting one or more cable ties to create a bit of slack and maybe insulating the wire with a bit of tape or silicon paste
 
Thanks Mr Hartley. If it's not the battery, then I think you may have sussed it.

Tomorrow morning I'm going to take a proper look. I need to add next stop turin and purple waiting! Will report back work findings.

Thanks to all. Really appreciate the help.
 
Before my head hits the pillow. Is there a compatible car starter motor for the GS? Just in case I find it is the motor. It might prove easier/quicker to just replace.

Thanks again (and apologies for flippin typos!)
 
Last question. Is the only way to check if it's the innards of the starter motor to take it apart? I suspect us but wondered if there's another way?
 
Before my head hits the pillow. Is there a compatible car starter motor for the GS? Just in case I find it is the motor. It might prove easier/quicker to just replace.

Thanks again (and apologies for flippin typos!)

As far as I am aware no. There are lots similar in size, but they all rotate in the opposite direction to the bikes starter motor.
 
Last question. Is the only way to check if it's the innards of the starter motor to take it apart? I suspect us but wondered if there's another way?

Not really, once the starter motor is off the bike, turning the gear in the direction of rotation ( arrow on the caseing ) won't prove anything as the gear is on a slipping clutch. Trying to turn it in the opposite direction is next to impossible as you are trying to turn against the planetary gears.

Follow the instructions for taking the front gear end off the motor body.
Undo the electrical connection for the solenoid.
Pop out the two rivets.
Undo the three torx screws.
The gear box complete with solenoid will slide off the end of the motor shaft.

If you see anything that looks like the grease plate welded to the motor, you've found your problem. It might be possible to prise the plate off and reassemble (minus plate) and see if it works.

You can also see the magnets and determine if they are still in situ. If they come unglued, they either grind to dust or stick to the other magnet.

If you don't see anything obvious, then the problem could be at the other end of the motor where the bushes are.

Bit more fidely that end. But as per the guide.
 
Testing the starter motor off the bike.

You will need some heavy duty cable like jumper cables and a small link wire or screwdriver.

Connect negative to case of starter motor.
Connect positive to the same terminal as your bike positive lead.
Place the starter on a sound surface and clamp it or on the floor with your boot on it.

To initiate the starter.
Short the small spade therminal ( the one where the small black wire goes to) to the positive terminal. (using link wire or screwdriver )

If the starter motor is good, you will know it.
 
Just a word of caution. The positive (+ve) lead (big red one ) on the starter motor is connected directly to the positive battery terminal. If you touch it to earth it will flash and spark. Some people do this job with the battery still connected. I wouldn't, It's an extra unnessessary risk.

It's up to you.

It takes no time to prop up the back of the fuel tank and undo the negative (-ve) lead on the battery this will isolate the electrics to be ultra safe.
 
As far as I am aware no. There are lots similar in size, but they all rotate in the opposite direction to the bikes starter motor.
Thanks for all your advice. Invaluable and saves cooking my head trying to think of all the possibilities.

Previous owner has now kindly confirmed the battery is actually from 2012!. So that's my first suspect. Going to get a new one this morning. If that doesn't work then the spanners will come out...

Back soon.
 


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