New 1250 GS Ceramic Coat

vussey

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morning troops, i pick up my new 1250gs next week, rallye TE with the billet pack ii. <i just got carried away> does anyone have opinions on ceramic coating out the crate? it’s a full day job 8 hours, whole bike, done at the dealers.

i’m riding through europe to greece in May for the Helles Raid and back over the alps so i’d like to lock in some of that new bike goodness. i’ve done cars before with consumer products and they seem to perform quite well on paint, but i have no idea about all the other bits. any help appreciated.

cheers.
 
Graphene coatings seem to be the new thing, it may be worth finding a reputable company to do it rather than going through the dealer.
 
Watched a recorded programme about building a Land Rover Defender, they apparently apply some sort of coating over the final paint finish on the production line ( i didn't pay attention to exactly what) which can be peeled off after a couple of years to reveal fresh 'like new' paint

Kawasaki have "self healing paint" on some models which will heal in a week or two - works on surface scratches only, my last Versys 1000 had it applied, I never put it to the test :thumb2
 
Graphene coatings seem to be the new thing, it may be worth finding a reputable company to do it rather than going through the dealer.

yes the company isn’t affiliated with bmw t wells at all, it’s just the one they have worked with before to have it done before it goes anywhere near a road, there’s no commission
 
Gtechniq auto products and a bit of elbow grease.

Gtechniq not cheap but good results .
Must be cheaper than BMW dealer and large profit margins on add on,s .
 
I had my new bike delivered to a local specialist who applied ceramic coating before it had a single road mile….IMHO better to get a competitive specialist to do it, rather than the dealer. (Although having said that my previous bike, an RT, was done by Bahnstormer and the coating lasted very well through my 4 years of ownership).
 
morning troops, i pick up my new 1250gs next week, rallye TE with the billet pack ii. <i just got carried away> does anyone have opinions on ceramic coating out the crate? it’s a full day job 8 hours, whole bike, done at the dealers.

i’m riding through europe to greece in May for the Helles Raid and back over the alps so i’d like to lock in some of that new bike goodness. i’ve done cars before with consumer products and they seem to perform quite well on paint, but i have no idea about all the other bits. any help appreciated.

cheers.
Unless one knew what products were being used, and who was applying them, I'm not sure it would be possible to provide a view?

Whilst a professionally applied, professional grade product can last a number of years when applied to paintwork, I'm a little more sceptical about ceramic coats on a bike rather than a car, it being about protecting exposed areas such as engines, exhausts, nuts and bolts, and plastics rather than just paintwork.
 
meguiars hybrid.. yes i used this on my a6 4 months ago and it’s still going strong. i like it. has done better than my wax finishes and looks good after just a wash.
 
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Hi it’s this firm, they are a local specialist

https://www.supershieldauto.co.uk/

They are a very good company and use top end products. Well worth getting it done at the dealership before you take delivery of the bike.

I got my new HD Pan America done before I picked it up. Peter took the entire day to do it for a very reasonable price. My bike is currently covered in shite, but when I decide to wash it next, I know it will come up just like new.
 
Hi it’s this firm, they are a local specialist

https://www.supershieldauto.co.uk/

ah, see this thread, including responses from the company.

https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/553044-Nano-ceramic-coating?highlight=Supershield

The question that remains outstanding for me is how the products work on non paintwork surfaces, areas that get hot and on the small alloy and other metal parts, as each would require a different sort of ceramic coating to achieve bonding. The other thing that slightly concerns me is that they seem to give the bike back the same day in cases, which suggests they aren't using a ceramic that requires heat hardening, and so the bonding would not be a strong. As the paintwork is the smallest of areas on a bike I'm not totally convinced about longevity but don't have any firm grounds for that.

Regards the side-topic that's been brought into this thread, around so-called ceramic 'top-ups', unless the user is only focussing on paintwork, the probable best option is to go for a spray on, jet off ceramic (i.e. silica based product), such a gyeon wet look - easier and probably cheaper and more durable option
 
Never used them myself but a pal who has curses it. Apparently after a few washes it starts to in effect, peel off. So it needs topping up at regular intervals.
His was a home applied finish btw.
 
Never used them myself but a pal who has curses it. Apparently after a few washes it starts to in effect, peel off. So it needs topping up at regular intervals.
His was a home applied finish btw.

Never known any ceramic coat to 'peel'off, unless it was literally poured onto a surface, and an unclean one at that But if it isn't applied on to scrupulously clean surface it won't bond, and so simply evaporate. Perhaps he was using something else?

https://www.vive-houston.com/blog/the-real-truth-about-ceramic-coatings
 
thanks all, i’ll have a butchers at that 8 page thread mentioned above.
 
Just my very humble opinion:

I had a 'ceramic' coating applied at the dealers before I picked the bike up. It wasn't done by BMW but an independent. It was about £300. I wasn't present. It came back lovely and shiny and water beaded off beautifully. A year in or so I had tarnishing in the normal places, e.g. bolts, front shock body etc. I had the bike four years and it was in good nick when I traded it for my 1250. However, I was never sure how much this coating contributed to its condition.

It was put on by hand and cloth. How can this really be effective?
I wasn't present, so have no idea how rigorously it was applied.
I look after my bike and wash it regularly and do the winter ACF50 spray coating thing by All Year Biker. with top ups over this period by myself.

Because of all the above I didn't get it done on the new one. I'm not convinced. My concern is that the only way this can be tested is to not wash your bike and see what it looks like in the Spring. Not for me.
 
Just my very humble opinion:

I had a 'ceramic' coating applied at the dealers before I picked the bike up. It wasn't done by BMW but an independent. It was about £300. I wasn't present. It came back lovely and shiny and water beaded off beautifully. A year in or so I had tarnishing in the normal places, e.g. bolts, front shock body etc. I had the bike four years and it was in good nick when I traded it for my 1250. However, I was never sure how much this coating contributed to its condition.

It was put on by hand and cloth. How can this really be effective?
I wasn't present, so have no idea how rigorously it was applied.
I look after my bike and wash it regularly and do the winter ACF50 spray coating thing by All Year Biker. with top ups over this period by myself.

Because of all the above I didn't get it done on the new one. I'm not convinced. My concern is that the only way this can be tested is to not wash your bike and see what it looks like in the Spring. Not for me.

You have raised some of the concerns I have for this sort of treatment.

Firstly, who does the work? If it's a professional detailer working on behalf of the dealer, I'd have less concerns. In terms of the application, it gets applied by foam/non-linting cotton applicator by hand, the success of which entirely depends on how the surfaces have been prepared to allow the silica to bond to the applied surface. On paintwork, it really is effective - you are creating a semi-permanent bond between two surfaces. Indeed, with high silica content products you can run the risk of creating product ridges on the surface and which would require rotary polishing to remove. Over time, the bond breaks down. Typically, you'll get 18-36 mths viable protection (most other claims of longevity are false or else require additional treatment over the lifetime).

Second, ceramics are designed for surface type - paint, plastic, bare metal - and, from what I have seen, it's claimed that a one size fit all ceramic does the job.

Finally, and most importantly, as I've said before, given the need for meticulousness in prep and application I don't see these products and applications working on small metal parts and in the partial crevices that adorn a bike. And I'm not aware of a ceramic that works on hot surfaces, such as engines, and which is a significant portion of the exposed bike.

Ceramics work great for cars, which is because it's just about all paintwork and wheels.

Also to note, ceramic coating will degrade faster if a car is not washed, as the contaminates will eat into the bonding over time. This is why the regime is to regularly use low-silica content sprays on top off the higher-content coating, to head off contamination, as well as increase sheen.

I've applied ceramic coating to the paintwork of my bike, but for all other parts I'll be relying on products such as ACF50.
 
I'm not convinced these ceramic coatings are worth the expense and trouble. Somehow the hype about how well they protect the paint feels like expensive snake-oil. It's not that I'm old fashioned, I'm all for modern paints and coatings, I've competed with my Porsches in multiple concourse events. However, I think a good wax and wash, paying attention to using quality cleaning methods and materials will do a superb job by themselves.
 


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