New boots solve one problem but cause another!

Some of you lot are a load of "cnuts". If the OP is being serious then he is obviously "mechanicaly challenged" - nothing wrong with that.

My answer to the OP is, yes the pedal can be adjusted up or down, but if you are uncomfortable doing it, pop into the dealer and they'll probably do it f.o.c. on the forecourt whilst you sit on the bike. It's a 5 min job.

Oh and make sure your wear your new platform boots:D
 
If you think adjusting it would help then drag the spanners out and have a play. Don't attack it with a flurry of undoing nuts etc just take your time, try one thing at a time and you might a) find it fun b) fix the problem. If you start getting concerned that you're fecking it up then stop do up all the bits you've undone and pop it into the dealer, but then ask if you can see how it's adjusted in case you need to adjust further.

I personally find I can't ride the GS in my Sidi Vertigos (well broken in) as I can't 'feel' where the lever is as it sits quite inboard. With my Daytonas it's dead easy.
 
Opened 'Fanum's Box'

Having had a sleepless night after all the abuse, Even my GS '12XXTwat' onesey didn't help, I will point out the reason I asked for the advice. Two earlier answers to this issue on the forum talk of moving the whole lever on the spline. I can see the logic in that but assume it will be coarse and may raise it too high for downshifting. I was wary of adjusting the turnbuckle as in theory this will move not only the position of the lever but the length of the throw. With all the gearbox issues I was concerned if this may have had a detrimental effect on the change. The earlier answers talk about using the side of the boot for changes. That is obviously what I was doing to get away with it yesterday. I am looking for the advice of the experience of others. Adjust the pedal or just get used to the stiletto's?
 
There are two ways to move the gear leaver...

You can make a course adjustment by removing the bolt and the clamp from the splined shaft coming out of the gearbox, then rotate the clamp one or more splines to lift or lower the lever. Mark the position of both relative to each other with a pen mark so that if its too much you can put it back.

The other option is a finer adjustment. This requires you to slacken the locking nuts on the threaded adjuster which connects to the gear lever. This has a right and left hand thread so look at the nut you are about to losen and follow the thread to do so.

Then rotate the centre nut which is fixed and the leaver will rise and fall.

When you have it where you like it tighten the lock nuts, not too tight though they don't need much just a nip.

I'd start with option 2, the fine adjustment as I think you may find you don't need much movement on the adjuster to move the lever.


Ps when you make this adjustment it is imperative that you are wearing your "Adventure" boots at the same time.........
 

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The stock position for the gear was a little high for me.

It's a simple adjustment and makes a world of difference. Changing gear shouldn't really occupy any of your thoughts, if it does, you probably need to adjust the lever (or reject the bike and employ the services of good legal representation...).

God bless the members of this forum that are able to answer threads of this nature whilst refusing to insert their heads up their own arses. :kissy2

Just imagine how quiet this forum would be if everyone was as knowledgeable as certain others.
 
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iandavid said:
Some of you lot are a load of "cnuts". If the OP is being serious then he is obviously "mechanicaly challenged" - nothing wrong with that.

My answer to the OP is, yes the pedal can be adjusted up or down, but if you are uncomfortable doing it, pop into the dealer and they'll probably do it f.o.c. on the forecourt whilst you sit on the bike. It's a 5 min job.

Oh and make sure your wear your new platform boots:D
Click to expand...

Or he could get down on one knee move in and work it out, will next weeks problem be the rear brake? Or will the hand guard slip and need workshop time.

You'll get plenty of useful advice here but making adjustments are as easy as doing up your new boots.
 
Surely I might scratch them ??

jonnyp said:
There are two ways to move the gear leaver...

You can make a course adjustment by removing the bolt and the clamp from the splined shaft coming out of the gearbox, then rotate the clamp one or more splines to lift or lower the lever. Mark the position of both relative to each other with a pen mark so that if its too much you can put it back.

The other option is a finer adjustment. This requires you to slacken the locking nuts on the threaded adjuster which connects to the gear lever. This has a right and left hand thread so look at the nut you are about to losen and follow the thread to do so.

Then rotate the centre nut which is fixed and the leaver will rise and fall.

When you have it where you like it tighten the lock nuts, not too tight though they don't need much just a nip.

I'd start with option 2, the fine adjustment as I think you may find you don't need much movement on the adjuster to move the lever.


Ps when you make this adjustment it is imperative that you are wearing your "Adventure" boots at the same time.........
Click to expand...

If I wear the boots at the same time should I put toe protectors on them first so I don't scratch them when scrabbling around on the floor.

My tool kit comprises of a pair of pliers and a hammer. Will that doo the job? or should I just use WD40 and gaffer tape ...........................

Thanks for the advice.
 
GSWizz said:
If I wear the boots at the same time should I put toe protectors on them first so I don't scratch them when scrabbling around on the floor.

My tool kit comprises of a pair of pliers and a hammer. Will that doo the job? or should I just use WD40 and gaffer tape ...........................

Thanks for the advice.
Click to expand...

I've just put you on my ... Complete and utter Fuckwhit list......

:blast
 
jonnyp said:
I've just put you on my ... Complete and utter Fuckwhit list......

:blast
Click to expand...

And he may have put you on his 'Whoosh' list:D

Seriously though, be careful with steel tips when paddling a heavy bike around, it's easy for your foot to slip.

PS warning only applies to IAM riders:thumb
 
Gossy said:
Or he could get down on one knee move in and work it out, will next weeks problem be the rear brake? Or will the hand guard slip and need workshop time.

You'll get plenty of useful advice here but making adjustments are as easy as doing up your new boots.
Click to expand...

Some people know that they are not mechanically adept. Having spent between £12 & £15K on a new bike it makes sense to ask if you aren't sure. Right and left handed threads with turnbarrels are a similar challenge as the comprehension of Latin may be for others:comfort

GSWizz said:
If I wear the boots at the same time should I put toe protectors on them first so I don't scratch them when scrabbling around on the floor.

My tool kit comprises of a pair of pliers and a hammer. Will that doo the job? or should I just use WD40 and gaffer tape ...........................

Thanks for the advice.
Click to expand...

You are going to fit in here just fine George Swizz!:thumb

jonnyp said:
I've just put you on my ... Complete and utter Fuckwhit list......

:blast
Click to expand...

Did you even hear the whoooshing sound?
 
Timolgra said:
And he may have put you on his 'Whoosh' list:D

Seriously though, be careful with steel tips when paddling a heavy bike around, it's easy for your foot to slip.

PS warning only applies to IAM riders:thumb
Click to expand...

Oh I better go out and buy some then ....

This great now I am part of the 12xx Twat club and have just been promoted to the rank of 'fuckwhit' in one post.

It's like taking sweets from a baby. But thanks to jonnyp for his sensible advice. I will now retire gracefully to a Safe distance having lit so many blue touch papers with overt and what I assumed was obvious tongue in cheek stupidity.
 
GSWizz said:
Oh I better go out and buy some then ....

This great now I am part of the 12xx Twat club and have just been promoted to the rank of 'fuckwhit' in in one post.

It's like taking sweets from a baby. But thanks to jonnyp for his sensible advice. I will now retire gracefully to a Safe distance having lit so many blue touch papers with overt and what I assumed was obvious tongue in cheek stupidity.
Click to expand...

Talking of whoosh lists:D
 
GSWizz said:
If I wear the boots at the same time should I put toe protectors on them first so I don't scratch them when scrabbling around on the floor.

My tool kit comprises of a pair of pliers and a hammer. Will that doo the job? or should I just use WD40 and gaffer tape ...........................

Thanks for the advice.
Click to expand...

If you can't fix it with a hammer , it's probably an electrical issue .
 
Jazbee said:
Why don't you move to the B&B and start posting on there and compete with some of the other fekin trolls? You seem to have developed an unhealthy obsession with a bike you don't even own..... the following little smiley represents you perfectly :spank

:D
Click to expand...

is that you pumping gas?
 
Fanum said:
Maybe it's sad, but I've gone past the stage where I can seriously offer advice when people say that they have a big great booger in their right nostril and want to know what to do with it :blast









People who won't even make the slightest effort to think for themselves about really totally and utterly trivial stuff just get right on my tits :(
Click to expand...

yup, you are a TIT!! Glad you know it already :comfort
 
GSWizz said:
Having had a sleepless night after all the abuse, Even my GS '12XXTwat' onesey didn't help, I will point out the reason I asked for the advice. Two earlier answers to this issue on the forum talk of moving the whole lever on the spline. I can see the logic in that but assume it will be coarse and may raise it too high for downshifting. I was wary of adjusting the turnbuckle as in theory this will move not only the position of the lever but the length of the throw. With all the gearbox issues I was concerned if this may have had a detrimental effect on the change. The earlier answers talk about using the side of the boot for changes. That is obviously what I was doing to get away with it yesterday. I am looking for the advice of the experience of others. Adjust the pedal or just get used to the stiletto's?
Click to expand...

Will you always wear the Sidi's though? changing at times to a paddock boot or Daytona would mean the adjustment would be out again, a simpler way is the:...

http://www.bykebitz.co.uk/motorcycl...sw-motech-gear-lever-bmw-r1200gs-lc-2013.html
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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