new brake pads - now dragging
- Thread starter Jamieboy
- Start date
Too much fluid in the reservoir? Sticky pistons? Did you clean the pistons before you pushed them back?
Thanks guys. Stainless hoses fitted last year, so don't think it's that.
I did remove fluid from the reservoir, but thinking back don't believe I cleaned pistons.
Presumably need to get them back out to where they were, clean 'em, and then fingers crossed should be fine.
Tips on how best to do that? Don't want to push them out too far (is this something to worry about) Maybe put old pads in...?
Thanks
I did remove fluid from the reservoir, but thinking back don't believe I cleaned pistons.
Presumably need to get them back out to where they were, clean 'em, and then fingers crossed should be fine.
Tips on how best to do that? Don't want to push them out too far (is this something to worry about) Maybe put old pads in...?
Thanks
They say that to stop folk pumping the pistons all the way out with associated grief
, gently pull the lever and you'll probably find one piston more eager to come out so you may need to hold one back with your thumb or a piece of flat wood to allow the other to come out.If you find one is sticking and really reluctant to move then use that piece of wood wedged between the free piston and other side of caliper body and gently squeeze the lever to bring the other out ..... not too hard, in case it goes all of a sudden!!!
Initially it's easier to clean and slightly lube one at a time anyway, then push that one back and sort the other.
You can also use a toothbrush with brake cleaner .... just don't tell the wife.
The important bit is, don't pump them all the way out!! Less than around 20mm I'd guess.
That's just the way I do it and have never had sticking pistons on any bike when treated this way once a year ..... others may of course disagree, but I'm going off personal experience
Karlread
Registered user
Wurth brake cleaner is very good, just make sure you are not over enthusiastic with pumping the lever, suggest you leave pads in and get a helper to pump the lever on your instruction.
You could take the pads out altogether to stop them rubbing, though I wouldn't recommend that
You could take the pads out altogether to stop them rubbing, though I wouldn't recommend that
Not sure how helpful this is:
When I stripped my brake callipers down recently. I found the easiest way (for me) was to drain the fluid from the system and remove the callipers entirely. If you can, place the calliper in a vice (or vicelike grip) and using some old pads place a thinnish (10mm) piece of wood between the pads.
To push out the pistons on the bench, I use an air line (foot pump or compressor) attached to the bleed nipple, the piece of wood ensures that all pistons will come out to the same height, eventually.
Depending on the age/mileage, you might want to consider splitting the callipers and replacing the piston seals with a new set. It's not expensive and is easy to do. (With care you can work out the extended pistons from each calliper half). As long as the piston barrels are not marked, then you can reuse them.
Lots of brake cleaner and an old toothbrush and when you fit the pads back, I always use copper grease on the backs of the pads.
I did this recently to a set of 10 year old callipers with 40k miles on them and the pistons only had some surface rust spotting which came off immediately with some grey scotchbrite.
When I stripped my brake callipers down recently. I found the easiest way (for me) was to drain the fluid from the system and remove the callipers entirely. If you can, place the calliper in a vice (or vicelike grip) and using some old pads place a thinnish (10mm) piece of wood between the pads.
To push out the pistons on the bench, I use an air line (foot pump or compressor) attached to the bleed nipple, the piece of wood ensures that all pistons will come out to the same height, eventually.
Depending on the age/mileage, you might want to consider splitting the callipers and replacing the piston seals with a new set. It's not expensive and is easy to do. (With care you can work out the extended pistons from each calliper half). As long as the piston barrels are not marked, then you can reuse them.
Lots of brake cleaner and an old toothbrush and when you fit the pads back, I always use copper grease on the backs of the pads.
I did this recently to a set of 10 year old callipers with 40k miles on them and the pistons only had some surface rust spotting which came off immediately with some grey scotchbrite.
Unbolt the calliper and get a thick shafted screwdriver (or flat bit of bar) and slide it in the gap where the disc would run and centre it as best you can and pump or get lever pumped until they are all out a bit
you can fit old pads but the screwdriver makes sure they don't pump out completely
With a "decent" pair of water pump plyers you can start to rotate the pistons BUT only grip the outer 2 mm as this is outside the outer seal area
You may well find its better to take them off and do the job properly
If I can rescue these you should be okay but i think yours will be the older Callipers the ones with Brembo written inside sort of concentric circles
you can fit old pads but the screwdriver makes sure they don't pump out completely
With a "decent" pair of water pump plyers you can start to rotate the pistons BUT only grip the outer 2 mm as this is outside the outer seal area
You may well find its better to take them off and do the job properly
If I can rescue these you should be okay but i think yours will be the older Callipers the ones with Brembo written inside sort of concentric circles
Wow. They cleaned up well! They looked a right mess in the first picture. Good job 
Did you replace the little O-rings between the two halves? I'd imagine yes?
Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
Did you replace the little O-rings between the two halves? I'd imagine yes?
Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
I recently done mine on the Evo braking sysyem and it's a doddle, pumped the pistons out far enough to get past the line of crud and then cleaned them up using a toothbrush and a weak mixture of eco washing up liquid, once clean spray a little silicon (rubber) lubricant onto the pistons and push them back in 
Some pistons will stick so I used 3 little g clamps and cleaned one at a time, popping one all the way out would be a pain so go canny!
Some pistons will stick so I used 3 little g clamps and cleaned one at a time, popping one all the way out would be a pain so go canny!
As long as you have the time and patience taking the piston all the way out actually makes it easier to do a thorough job. You just need to be careful when replacing them that you get them in straight.
Washing up liquid is normally full of salt, I wouldn't use it on my brakes. If you do use it make sure that you rinse really thoroughly. Road salt on 1150 calipers is guaranteed to ensure they need a clean at least once through the winter.
Washing up liquid is normally full of salt, I wouldn't use it on my brakes. If you do use it make sure that you rinse really thoroughly. Road salt on 1150 calipers is guaranteed to ensure they need a clean at least once through the winter.
Cyrus
Registered user
Happened to me recently (R1100GS 1995). The brakes seemed to be dragging making it hard to push around the labyrinthine route required for me to get it in the garage.
Observation whilst revolving the wheel indicated that the discs weren't floating, so my solution was to flush out the disc mounting bobbins with brake cleaner - they must have been fouled with brake dust. The discs now float slightly laterally on the bobbins as I imagine they're supposed to, and the drag has gone!
Of course, now one side rattles meaning excess play so I guess I'm going to have to replace the washers.
I also cleaned out the vent holes in the discs which were also fouling with brake dust.
It wouldn't have been the lines because I recently successfully replaced them (with the Venhill kit - no complaints there and everything was the right length etc). Incidentally I cut my spongy old rubber lines in half after removing them to inspect the bore. Scary - almost no hole down the middle at all!
Observation whilst revolving the wheel indicated that the discs weren't floating, so my solution was to flush out the disc mounting bobbins with brake cleaner - they must have been fouled with brake dust. The discs now float slightly laterally on the bobbins as I imagine they're supposed to, and the drag has gone!
Of course, now one side rattles meaning excess play so I guess I'm going to have to replace the washers.
I also cleaned out the vent holes in the discs which were also fouling with brake dust.
It wouldn't have been the lines because I recently successfully replaced them (with the Venhill kit - no complaints there and everything was the right length etc). Incidentally I cut my spongy old rubber lines in half after removing them to inspect the bore. Scary - almost no hole down the middle at all!
Similar threads
