NEW CLUTCH FITTED

(RIP) ugg

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Im uggtek on thumpertalk.pm me there
New clutch fitted this weekend on me 1100 GS

went ok , i removed the whole swing arm with gearbox fitted, my mate helped me with sliding the box out , its heavier with the swing arm on..but ye impovise with what ye have got..:augie

pic of back end up..
clutch removed , back end up.JPG

the old clutch in position
old clutch.JPG

the white balance mark , for realignment
old clutch balance mark.JPG

i used a size 8mm long bolt to hold the clutch in place (theres a hole in the crankcase to fit this)

the old clutch was badly worn and measured 4.85 mm on the vernier, it has a pastey kind of deposit on it?old clutch cork , damaged.JPG

we aligned the blue dots on the new clutch components and fitted the white marks as close as possible. on the cover plate

marked on the new cover plate and pressure plate was blue paint dots we put blue dot to dot and it fitted..:D
the cover plate had holes drilled in so i recon this was to balance the lot..ie blue dot to blue dot is 120 degrees away:augie

to center the friction plate we fitted the pushrod to the center female spline housing clutch side,(i think its called that?) ,nipped up the new cover plate bolts (dont reuse old bolts) these were loosely tightened and i slid a suitable size socket in to the center of the friction plate and its was pretty bloody centered . tightened the lot up and put the gearbox and starter motor back on...

using this method we only had to put the whole swing arm and gearbox back on one time only:thumb

the socket is the same sort of idea as using an old spline or similar , but more accessible, how many 1/2 inch sockets do ye have lying around:augie


this is a pic of center tool , ie 1/2 inch 3/8 socket end so it slides over the on the pushrod
alignment tool.JPG

readjusted the clutch cable at the gearbox end , then set it as per manual says...

put everything back on and gave the GS a test ride , it ran smoother than before and all i need to do now is run it in...bugger:thedummy

ugg
 
Fabulous! Thank you so much for taking the time to get the pictures.

Thanks a bunch!
 
:thumb, nice one, fancy doin mine when needed, you make it look easy:clap
 
:thumb, nice one, fancy doin mine when needed, you make it look easy:clap

pictures dont tell all the truth :D:D:D

fekin ABS.....thats another story...."grumble , grumble argg.....":thedummy

ps how do, ye remove the bloody airbox??

oh yeh can anyone tell me what they think the pastey deposit on the friction plate is???
cosistancy of paste...dur...
is it oil contamination..the back of the clutch was bone dry...
 
I am worried now, i mentioned these marks to the shop who did mine but they said don't matter if you fit whole new clutch !!! anyone know if thats right, havent ridden it any distance since as started stripdown soon as it came out.
 
I am worried now, i mentioned these marks to the shop who did mine but they said don't matter if you fit whole new clutch !!! anyone know if thats right, .

Really, don't worry about the marks. Each section is individually balanced, hence the machining marks on every piece.
 
Really, don't worry about the marks. Each section is individually balanced, hence the machining marks on every piece.

thats what i figured steptoe....:D

have ye seen a friction plate like mine before..?

i had a little leak from the gearbox rubber boot back seal , on the pushrod end...it was around a week (later fitted replacement seal) , do ye recon this could of contaminated the friction plate???????
 
its oil on the plate mixed wi dust,seen it on car clutches
 
Thanks for the pictures - I have a ceramic clutch kit to go in sometime this winter.

BTW - I bought the ceramic clutch from S Africa to save a fortune.

Great idea until customs sucked £150 from me to get it released.

Make sure you get it SENT IN PLAIN PACKING!
 
Thanks for the pictures - I have a ceramic clutch kit to go in sometime this winter.

!

That won't save you from the usual reason for a fecked clutch. Failure of the seal dumping oil into the clutch or the drive splines wearing out :blast.
 
clutch fitting

hi guys,

i would like to ask you something.What happens if you don't mark the components and or fit them in different positions?

i'm asking this because it fits in every position with no problems.

By the way i don't mean fitting reverse sides.Just cw or ccw.
 
Nice one Ugg with folk ready to have a go themselves at the mo. The gunge would be worth a re-look at your gearbox seal. When I did my clutch at the same time as i had the gearbox rebuilt, i also changed the rear crank seal. This had been leaking for the previous 20k at least (all my ownership), and had been reported on the PO's service invoices as an imminent job for a couple of years before that.

The strange thing is, that even though the engine oil was on the front of the flywheel and all over the bellhousing, the flywheel had stopped it reaching the clutch. At the same time I nipped up the crankcase bolts as they were a little slack:eek: Probably why the engine oil appeared in the 1st place!

Don't be scared kids, stick yer brain in gear and take your time and many of these jobs are perfectly possible. Either that or take it to a good no bullshit bloke like Ste....
 
hi guys,

i would like to ask you something.What happens if you don't mark the components and or fit them in different positions?

i'm asking this because it fits in every position with no problems.

By the way i don't mean fitting reverse sides.Just cw or ccw.
Take a look at post 7 by Steptoe.

Useful and timely ressurection of an old thread and a reminder on how the clutch is re-assembled.Ta,ugg.
 
hi guys,

i would like to ask you something.What happens if you don't mark the components and or fit them in different positions?

i'm asking this because it fits in every position with no problems.

By the way i don't mean fitting reverse sides.Just cw or ccw.
Take a look at post 7 by Steptoe.

Useful and timely ressurection of an old thread and a reminder on how the clutch is re-assembled.Ta,ugg.
 


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