New exhaust, well new to me.

[Ravenbyrne]

In about a weeks time I'll be dumping the full exhaust system off my 2008 GSA and fitting a full BOS stainless steel system. The BOS system is being supplied with new header gaskets and it has a removable baffle.

Couple of questions.

1. Do I need to use exhaust past on any of the connections??

2. Will I need to have the motor re-mapped??

3. Anything else I need to consider or do??

Any advice or tips would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
Brian

 

[Bendy toy]

No exhaust paste needed on cylinder head flange just use new sealing rings. Avoid paste on pipe joints as it can jam them permanently. Use anti seize paste on dome nut (or any other) threads.

Use silicone sealant on muffler pipe joint. It lubricates the fit and stands up to 250 degs C. Front pipe joints will need high temperature anti seize paste as they get to well over 250C.

If you keep the standard air filter and run it on 97 octane or above it wont need a remap. A good baffle will also reduced the risks of it running too lean. A remap will give a much better improvement with a free flow system than it will with a standard system. But the free flow wont do a great deal for power without the remap. It will though reduce the mid range flat spot and make bike feel more responsive.

 

[Nick dj]

re map

I agree with Bendytoy on all but the remap.

Even if it did not damage the engine, you will not get the full benefit of the exhaust without a re-map.

Only my opinion but why spend that sort of money and not add £250 for re-map

Nick

 

[Bendy toy]

I wasn't very clear. By saying "won't need a remap" I meant you can get away with not having it done. The bike will benefit a lot if it's remapped after the new pipes are fitted.


Sent from a widget that can't spell.

 

[Ravenbyrne]

Thanks for the replies guys........

One last question, if I do the swap over without the re-map will it have any ill effects on the motor?? Oh and I have a K&N already fitted.

Thanks again

 

[Sgt Bilco]

The BOS system will fit straight on no problem but use the new exhaust gaskets as they are a one use item.

Without the CAT, the motor will run a little leaner but no problem as the lambda sensors will sort the airflow but I would go back to a standard air filter. To get it bang on, a remap or a Power Commander would be good but it's not essential.

As Bendy Boy has pointed out keep the baffle in. I played around with mine and found the boxer engine likes the back pressure and runs better with a baffle. It's not a scientific survey but just my gut reaction and my motor purrs along even though it's got over 100,000 miles.

 

[Ravenbyrne]

Thanks for all the advice guys....

Only thing I did notice is that there's almost no engine breaking compared to the standard set-up, so I guess I'll have to get used to that and adjust my riding to compensate. I will change over to a standard air filter when I'm doing the next service, but for now I'm happy with the change.

Oh.... the other thing I did notice is that the gear changes are much smoother

 

[Bendy toy]

Unless it's remapped to suit, it's not wise to run a free flow filter AND a free flow exhaust. Also use 97 octane or better. It costs less per mile, the engine feels more responsive and exhaust temperatures are lower.


Sent from a widget that can't spell.

 

[Ravenbyrne]

Ok..... so did about 2000k with the K&N filter fitted and the new exhaust with not problems. As per the advise I changed back to the standard air filter last week and one thing that did happen on a regular basis was that the bike kept cutting out at low rev's and low speed. In other words, if I was gearing down into second in slow traffic the bike would cut out. This happened quite a few times and they only way to prevent it was to blip the throttle.

Should I stick the K&N back in and if I do will it cause engine problems.

Thanks in advance