Thanks Steve. Ermax screen and top box ready to be fitted. Remind why you didn’t fit the spacers with that screen?
New Guzzi V85 looks good.
- Thread starter Rob Farmer
- Start date
Thanks Steve. Ermax screen and top box ready to be fitted. Remind why you didn’t fit the spacers with that screen?
Second rear tyre puncture inside two months today. Unlucky I am assuming until I get the tyre off to inspect it. I am also working on justifying a set of Kineos tubeless wheels to myself.
Very nice indeed, tinted screen, engine bars.....
Still no looker, in Ronald McDonald colour scheme
I knew that would draw you out,
Merry Christmas JB
I put 10mm spacers on the top mountings, but didn't like the way that, when putting them on the bottom mountings it pushed the screen away from the headlight and for me didn't look right.
Someone has just given me a brand new Givi Airflow, it's a very nicely made screen and I have mounted it on the bike, but my God it's ugly. I haven't been out for a ride with it on yet, but I like the look of the Ermax and it really suits the bike. I do feel that sometimes folk forget they're riding a motorbike and there will always be some wind around no matter what you do.
Get the fender extender on ASAP Tony. That front cover really doesn't like being battered. It'll be interesting to see how many V85's turn up at Dent next year. I'm going for four.
I knew that would draw you out,
Merry Christmas JB
Merry Christmas to you both
Enjoy your new Guzzi
It’s not that bad
I see the beige one in Teasdale’s window most days and that is gash
They’ve fitted me a fender with an extender on but despite me speaking to them twice they insisted the one they were fitting was the right one. I’ve found it doesn’t fully stop crap hitting the front of the engine so I need a chat with them post haste. It’s a very nice fender but not to the model people have recommended. Back to square one.
There are Definately 2 front mudguards for the Capanord Rallye. I am almost sure that one is much shorter than the other and even with the extender fitted does not protect the front of the engine. I believe the correct part number is....2B001431
I see the beige one in Teasdale’s window most days and that is gash
I saw that one recently too when I drove through Thirsk and stopped to have to have a proper look. Decided I quite liked it in a quirky sort of way.
The one they’ve fitted is for a 1200 but not necessarily for the Rally. Looks good and has its own extender but it just isn’t quite long enough. I’ll post a picture at some point. I did repeatedly specify the mudguard I wanted but they insisted they new better.
Could be that they've fitted one designed for a non-Rally 1200 Caponord, the version using a 17" front wheel ? I think I'm right in saying that only the more 'offroady' Rally used a 19", as per the v85.
I ordered a Caponord mudguard from Gutsibits. I just phoned them and said I wanted the right one plus the Pyramid plastics extender. Easy to fit and with the extender protects the from of the engine very well.
It fits the diameter of the wheel but it’s not long enough even with its built in extender. Got a replacement on the way courtesy of Jon Marshall of this parish
As some of you will know, I'm on my second V85. On my first one I performed the tubed to tubeless conversion using the 3m 5200 sealant and the 3M tape. It was fairly successful but it did develop a slight leak in the front wheel after about 2 months.
I redid the front wheel, but rather than use the tape I ran a continuous bead of sealant around the rim, smoothing it out using acetone.
Again this was fairly successful, but the tyre lost about 1lb of pressure a week, no great shakes, but I felt it could only get worse rather than better.
So, onto bike 2. After much deliberation I decided to go with the Sealant and tape method again, but with some slight changes.
I think as with all things, preparation is the key. I spent a lot of time with brake cleaner making sure everything was spotless. Although I do have heating in my workshop I decided to do it at the kitchen table as the temperature is more constant in the house.
On this occasion I decided to shell out and get a roll of the 30mm tape for the front wheel rather than try and trim down the 50mm tape. I also put the tape on in 24mm sections rather than in one piece around the whole circumference of the wheel. This method has resulted in a much neater finish with less air to try and expel.
When applying the sealant I filled the nipple thread first then put a run around the nipple itself. I think it's important to leave it for at least 24hrs before trying to apply the tape. The next day it's possible to add a bit more sealant, but not to much. I found it much easier with the shorter sections of tape and it enable you to really press the sealant into the nipple beds.
Once finished the thing I did this time, that I didn't last time, was to put the rim protectors back on and actually seal around the edge of those also.
All in all it's made a much neater job than the last twice I've done it. I'll let you know if they hold air permanently using this method.
I redid the front wheel, but rather than use the tape I ran a continuous bead of sealant around the rim, smoothing it out using acetone.
Again this was fairly successful, but the tyre lost about 1lb of pressure a week, no great shakes, but I felt it could only get worse rather than better.
So, onto bike 2. After much deliberation I decided to go with the Sealant and tape method again, but with some slight changes.
I think as with all things, preparation is the key. I spent a lot of time with brake cleaner making sure everything was spotless. Although I do have heating in my workshop I decided to do it at the kitchen table as the temperature is more constant in the house.
On this occasion I decided to shell out and get a roll of the 30mm tape for the front wheel rather than try and trim down the 50mm tape. I also put the tape on in 24mm sections rather than in one piece around the whole circumference of the wheel. This method has resulted in a much neater finish with less air to try and expel.
When applying the sealant I filled the nipple thread first then put a run around the nipple itself. I think it's important to leave it for at least 24hrs before trying to apply the tape. The next day it's possible to add a bit more sealant, but not to much. I found it much easier with the shorter sections of tape and it enable you to really press the sealant into the nipple beds.
Once finished the thing I did this time, that I didn't last time, was to put the rim protectors back on and actually seal around the edge of those also.
All in all it's made a much neater job than the last twice I've done it. I'll let you know if they hold air permanently using this method.
my immediate thought id with all those small bits of 24mm tape there's more edges to fail.?
how about filling the wheel with some tyre seal liquid to stop any micro leaks ?
how about filling the wheel with some tyre seal liquid to stop any micro leaks ?
Sorry, I was wrong there. I cut them into 24cm lengths, I also ran a thin bead of sealant over each joint. Not a bad idea using some sealing liquid, but it's very messy at tyre changing time. Sealing the rim tape has added another layer of protection and gives a really neat finish. That's 3 layers of sealing so hopefully will be 100% airtight. Tyres going back on today. I'll inflate them to 50psi and leave a week before putting them back on the bike, providing they're air tight of course.
I recognise that drive and front door
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