New-to-me 1987 R80RT Project

gog

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Just wanted to introduce myself and my new project. Im a new member here and hopefully posting non-GS bikes here is acceptable!

Im 32 and currently taking lessons for my full A. Test is on 12th June. Ive only had one bike before and that was a wee Yamaha TZR125 back when i was 18 and first left home. Lots of fun until it met a Volvo it didnt get on with. 14 years, a mrs, 2 kids, house, job, 3 cars down the line and I find myself with a new project - my Dad's old 1987 ex-police R80RT airhead:

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Im hoping to have her fixed up and through MOT before I pass my test. The bike was stolen from my Dad's shed a couple of years ago and the ignition knackered. It has sat untouched in the shed ever since being recovered.

Shes not in an awful state, but definitely needs a bit of work. Generally needs a detailed service and clean, as well as some cosmetic attention.

Few more grimy pics:

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rhs_close.jpg

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I sourced a new original ignition switch with key on ebay and wired it up using diagrams found online. Haynes manual is purchased but not arrived yet.

The fuel lines from tank to carbs were so old and brittle they snapped off like plastic when trying to remove. Had to take off carbs to get the rest of the lines off the nipples. Replaced with new lines.

Battery was completely dead, so a new one bought and connected. Noticed the battery cage needs some TLC due to corrosion. A job for another weekend.

Old fuel drained and new stuff put in. Noticed a pinkish colour to the old fuel, most likely some build up of sludge and crap in the tank from having sat a few years with old fuel in. Checked flow from both petcocks - left hand was fine, right has slow flow. Engine oil is at the correct level but I will drain and replace it asap with 20w50.

Then tried to start her for the first time in 3 or 4 years. Starter turning strong, but worrying loud metallic bangs from what sounds like the left cylinder. Sounds like the noise a 12" adjustable spanner would make if it landed flat on to concrtete from a few feet up. Sharp, metallic and slightly louder than the turnover noise of the engine itself. No regular pattern to when it happens, happened about 4 times in the 30 seconds or so I had the starter button held first time. Second time, the bang only happened the second the starter button was pushed and the moment it was released. Third time, the banging noise didnt happen and the engine started to fire, only on the left cylinder though.

Anyone have any idea what that alarming banging noise may have been?

Subsequent attempts, again only left cylinder starting. Check the fuel supply from the right petcock and sure enough, no fuel there. Must be a blockage there which i'll need to fix at the weekend. Got a couple of petcock rebuild kits to do it right.

Noticed some smoking from around the exhaust rose nuts where the pipes enter the head. Hoping thats just the WD40 I sprayed on them during the week burning off but i suspect its more likely to be leaks which will need sorted.

This weekend, weather permitting, I will be:

Changing oil and filter, remembering the £2k O-ring info I read about.
Removing bowls from carbs and cleaning those, inc nozzles.
Cleaning out the tank and rebuilding petcocks to restore free fuel flow.
Trying to start her again, and hopefully manage an idle tickover with both cylinders firing.

I am completely new to working on bikes. Done a fair bit of DIY on my cars over the years, but any advice and help from those in the know would be much appreciated as I go along. If people are interested, I would be happy to update this thread with photos and progress over the coming weeks.
 
welcome to the forum ,its a friendly place (at times) and the airhead section is full of people with tons of knowledge of airheads .
we look forward to your project ,and as a newbie you have ,ananged to post photos ,it took me about two years to figure out :D
 
Thanks for the welcome, Dave.

Im looking forward to getting the old wench back up and running and hopefully meet some new people along the way ;)
 
  1. Welcome!
  2. Let us know what the bangs were from the left hand cylinder.
  3. Enjoy the RT. :thumb2
:beerjug:
 
Welcome :thumb2

Fuel lines should be linked ( through that hole under the airbox ) so not the end of the world if one tap isn't flowing fully etc.

May be best if you remove the rocker covers - tablespoon of oil will leak out when you do ( and well worth buying a set of new rocker cover gaskets ). Big centre nut and two 10mm nuts to the rear of the rocker cover ( we always replace with stainless :D ) Then you can see the rockers and get someone to turn the engine over by hand to see that a valve isn't stuck etc. If all well, then chack the clearances ( don't forget these are a noisey 'tappity' engine ). New plugs as well as new fuel etc etc. Nothing sounds like it has been altered since stolen/recovered..just that the old girl needs a little help to initially get going ( carb kits and diaghrams are a must here, together with a bloody good clean...or send them to a specialist company to ultrasonically clean them and fit the carb kit etc ).

She should then ( we'll hear the big bang :D ) fire up :bounce1

Incidently, ask away in here :thumb2
 
Cheers for the welcomes and replies - wasn't aware there would be so many people still running and repairing these old machines!

Service kit with filters and gaskets on order from motobins along with the petcock rebuild kits. Hopefully arrive before the weekend.

Got a few hours this evening to tinker, so drained the 5 or so litres from the tank. Looks like having fresh fuel just sitting in the tank for a few days cleared that petcock because both worked fine to drain tank.

What came out was not pretty though. Pink in colour and looking into the filler there's a patchy red coating that is slowly disintegrating and dissolving into the petrol. Strained the petrol through a gauze and put it back in tank and gave it a good 5 minute shaking then poured it back out through the top filler, bypassing the petcock filters. Quite a bit of flaky rubbery red gunk came out. It's not rust, I assume its some tank sealant formula that's been applied years ago and is now breaking down.

Anyway, repeated this process twice and what comes out now is roughly what goes in, no loose gunk bits. Went to do it one last time and disaster - the bloody fuel cap now won't unscrew. Just turns and turns. Even with a fair bit of pulling whilst turning, it's not coming up at all. It's never been locked, Dad never had a key (the ignition on it when he got it was not the bikes original one) so god knows how I'm going to get it off. I don't suppose drilling the barrel would help as it would still just turn. Any ideas?

I'll post pics up tomorrow of the crap that came out the tank. It's not pretty :/

Will order the bits to service the carbs too. Not afraid of elbow grease cleaning so ill give it a bash myself. Linking fuel lines doesn't sound too taxing, will give that a go, cheers ;)
 
Feed a length of rope through the handle of the fuel cap...stand on the foot pegs and frip each end of the rope ( honest )...so you are now standing over the fuel cap...and give an almighty tug on the rope and the fuel cap should pull out ( honest, again )......watch your teeth with the launching fual cap !!!!

Tug away !! :eek:
 
Hi Gordon, I read a long time ago that you can just pull the filler cap off when it decides to spin free like yours by looping a cord through the folding handle of the filler and pulling. Presumably you would be able to sort the problem once you get the cap off, but I don't remember any more, other than wondering at the time if doing so could break one of the ends of the handle at the hinge. I only mention this to see if someone else agrees with me first rather than to suggest you to go ahead and do it. I do hope that makes sense. :)

Beaten to it by Kenny! Ah, well, that makes two of us, so we could be right ...
 
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..oh and the red gunge is from the standard liner of the tank so no worries there ( but carbs WILL need a thorough clean... and I mean thorough !! )...just needs to be used and put an inline fuel filter above either tap :thumb2
 
BMW R80 Project

Best of luck with your project , You picked a good bike for an introduction to motorcycle Prep, will keep a keen eye on your progress

Phil
 
Thanks for the info there guys. Shortly after posting i had a look on the web and found that its quite a common problem, bit of a lock design fault really.

looks like the 'pull the bugger out with rope' approach is a popular fix! According to snowbum's site and an article by a french lad i found though, my cap (with BMW logo) may have a rolled metal lip that could hold it fast enough to bend the tank if yanked on too hard. Looks like since i dont actually have the key, I might be best to drill through the 2 parts of the cap and pin them together with a nail to turn it out... think ill try that tonight.

Ill make sure and clean the carbs thoroughly on Saturday as well as flushing the tank properly, replacing filters and some more fresh fuel. Hopefully get the bulk of the deteriorating original liner out ;)
 
Some pics of yesterdays troubles.

Doesnt look too pretty in here, eh?

throughthepeephole.jpg


... and this is what came out:

gunk1.jpg


Cant imagine that was doing the fuel flow much good :/

gunk2.jpg


And heres what im left with. Looks much like the diesel I used to use in my uh... tractor. ;)

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When your fuel cap gets stuck on, and absolutely refuses to budge, there is only one thing left to do...

consolation.jpg


;)
 
Tank repair

I had a pinhole leak along with the flaking red gunk. What I did was :
1. Couple handfulls nuts and bolts, rattle about to loosen flaky bits
2. Electrolysis. Make sacrificial anode with old screwdriver stuck through plastic funnel - make sure it does not touch inside tank when inserted through filler. Fill with caustic soda, connect to battery charger and leave overnight - this is very effective, probably dont need step 1.
3. Re-seal tank with POR15 - a 3 stage process just follow the instructions
Job done
 
P.S

for the above I used wine bottle corks in the fuel tap threads. Make sure the corks are cut down so as to completely fill the thread and nearly flush with the top and not projecting into the tank.
I was not so careful with this and had a headache removing POR15 from the thread
 
wasn't aware there would be so many people still running and repairing these old machines!
WotchaMeanOld?!?! :rob My K100's 2 year older than your R80 and it's my do-all Bike :P
Following this thread with pleasure as it reminds me of the 'education' :rolleyes: my first R65 gave me about Boxers! :thumb2
 
Mike, thanks for the tip about the electrolysis - I think this is absolutely what I will do. I had already bought a load of 8mm steel ballbearings and was planning to slosh those about in some diesel in the tank for a while.

I may still do this and follow it up with electrolysis.

Do you think that this prep alone would be sufficient to then use the POR-15 sealant itself, or need to go the whole 3 step process? (clean & prep then rust remover solutions in the full kit)

I tried pulling my stuck filler cap off with a rope, standing on the heads. I pulled as hard as I was comfortable wouldnt bend the tank and it didnt budge *at all*, so I drilled it instead. Worked a charm, so at least I have access to the tank again.

I dropped and cleaned the bowls of the carbs out and checked both petcocks were supplying clean (just very slightly pinkish) petrol which they were. Starter only took a few turns to fire the engine and now both cylinders are running. Great.

She wont idle - cuts out when throttle released - but im guessing thats down to the carbs needing a good clean and balance, and I still need to check the valves. Service kit arrived on Wednesday so I can remove the rocker covers, do the necessary and refit with new gaskets.

Kept her running only a minute or so as no airflow, but did notice the right barrell was significantly hotter than the left. Not sure what this could be but will change the oil properly and investigate on Saturday.
 
Sorry Gordon I did not explain clearly

---- the POR15 itself is a 3 step process the first of which is a cleaner, the second an etch to prepare for the third which is the sealant.
So with the electrolysis its a bit belt and braces but you wind up with a better job.
I was amazed at how much shite the electrolysis removed
Cheers
Mike
 


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