New to the whole shooting game

[oblertone]

Barrel lengths are subject to fashion; in the not too distant past 25" barrels for game shooting were the very thing, then clay shooting became popular and longer barrels came into fashion because they allow a steadier hold on a target that has a known trajectory. Recently they reached 34" for 'Trap' guns ( all going-away targets on fixed lines) but guns for 'sporting clays' (mixed trajectory) seem to have peaked at 32". The 28" barrels on offer are a good all-rounder and perfect for a beginner in either game or clay.
I should add that the Beretta 686 action is widely regarding as one of the most reliable around; spare parts are widely available and require no specialist techniques to fit as factory tolerances are very tight. Guns using this action range
from £500 to £10000 largely dependent on exterior decoration and fancy woodwork, neither of which you require.
I bought a Beretta 28" 686 Onyx (unengraved action) from a forum member some 12 years ago, I recently traded it for the same money I paid him which says something about their quality.

 

[Loiq]

I saw Paul's alright and I'd be very interested in that. I would have to look into how I import it to here. I'd imagine bringing on a plane would be an issue but then again I don't know haven't never done anything like this.
You say you have several in stock are you a dealer ?
Can I also ask what the different barrel lengths mean to an uneducated fool like me please
Cheers

as explained before shorter guns are easier to swing about for rough shooting, under or in cover. Longer barrels have longer small shot patterns. Typical for high or larger game "goose" being a good example.

Shotguns (modern chambered) are nitro proof, can be used for steel shot (or other high pressure rounds) and most have 3inch chambers but cases (shells) can be vary in length from 2 inch to 3.5 inch so these will hold different amounts of lead or steel shot from 21g up to 50g smaller lighter shells give the shooter less recoil, some are used for clay grounds with noise restrictions etc. while the big heavy loads are for really totally and utterly killing stuff dead. Big High Canada Geese are solid things that need abit of ooommmff... to knock over.

a 28 inch with fixed chokes or one with 1/2 top and 3/4 bottom barrel will do everything you need for a start, buy one and learn to shoot that... with one consistent load don't shoot some 21g number 7 and then swap to 36g number 5 shot.... cos you won't learn the distance, lead (as in how much you need to be in advance of the target) or spread (pattern). some clay clubs use to have pattern boards, which are good to get a feel for the size of pattern at different distances.

as for me being dealer, I've worked for a few over the years. been around guns for over 50 years and for work we have to have a dealers license. Which is all abit complex...

my suggestion get the paperwork squared away book in for lessons to get the safety and competent use dealt with... and then try an easy either rising (flying away or coming straight towards you clay) As said most people shoot well with a 686 (whatever it is) while a few have a different natural alinment and they do better with Browning / Miroku action shotguns... which is taller... shooting is oh so simple... till people make it complex....

plently of dealers in NI will sort an import issue out... if asked in the correct way

 

[KMD]

as explained before shorter guns are easier to swing about for rough shooting, under or in cover. Longer barrels have longer small shot patterns. Typical for high or larger game "goose" being a good example.

Shotguns (modern chambered) are nitro proof, can be used for steel shot (or other high pressure rounds) and most have 3inch chambers but cases (shells) can be vary in length from 2 inch to 3.5 inch so these will hold different amounts of lead or steel shot from 21g up to 50g smaller lighter shells give the shooter less recoil, some are used for clay grounds with noise restrictions etc. while the big heavy loads are for really totally and utterly killing stuff dead. Big High Canada Geese are solid things that need abit of ooommmff... to knock over.

a 28 inch with fixed chokes or one with 1/2 top and 3/4 bottom barrel will do everything you need for a start, buy one and learn to shoot that... with one consistent load don't shoot some 21g number 7 and then swap to 36g number 5 shot.... cos you won't learn the distance, lead (as in how much you need to be in advance of the target) or spread (pattern). some clay clubs use to have pattern boards, which are good to get a feel for the size of pattern at different distances.

as for me being dealer, I've worked for a few over the years. been around guns for over 50 years and for work we have to have a dealers license. Which is all abit complex...

my suggestion get the paperwork squared away book in for lessons to get the safety and competent use dealt with... and then try an easy either rising (flying away or coming straight towards you clay) As said most people shoot well with a 686 (whatever it is) while a few have a different natural alinment and they do better with Browning / Miroku action shotguns... which is taller... shooting is oh so simple... till people make it complex....

plently of dealers in NI will sort an import issue out... if asked in the correct way

This^

Despite two of my shotguns being multi-choke, I only ever use 1/2 and 3/4 and No 7 fibre wad cartridges. There is seldom any need to complicate it further, in my experience.

 

[dub 24]

So myself and my son went down to our local gunsmith in the next town over
He was very helpful with advice and information and not the least bit pushy.
We are both doing the prerequisite course,me as a refresher and obviously my son for his licence.
We had a look at some at some guns and will probably purchase from him.
I'll keep ye informed and again thanks to everyone for their advice

 

[Morety]

Often overooked are the excellent AYA box locks, which for the money are lovely guns. If fileld shooting is the main use, I'd recommend a nice nr 4 box lock ejector. These unlike many less expensive guns, have a lovely balance and shoot really well. You can pick one up in great condition south of £500 these dys, often less. The Nr 2 sidelock is a lovely gun. I use a Silver pigeon these days but always shot better with a good sbs and valued the lighter weight and better balance of a good one. The 686 is very well made, has chrome lined barrels and is a reliable gun but don't overlook the Browning B525 sporter on the used market. They're as well made as the Berretta and imho can be a cut above the Berretta, especially in one of the nicer grade stocks.

 

[dub 24]

Cheers Morety for the information. I had to look up all those different guns you suggested that's how clueless I am. Anyway definitely food for thought.
Dub 24

 

[jags]

Often overooked are the excellent AYA box locks, which for the money are lovely guns. If fileld shooting is the main use, I'd recommend a nice nr 4 box lock ejector. These unlike many less expensive guns, have a lovely balance and shoot really well. You can pick one up in great condition south of £500 these dys, often less. The Nr 2 sidelock is a lovely gun. I use a Silver pigeon these days but always shot better with a good sbs and valued the lighter weight and better balance of a good one. The 686 is very well made, has chrome lined barrels and is a reliable gun but don't overlook the Browning B525 sporter on the used market. They're as well made as the Berretta and imho can be a cut above the Berretta, especially in one of the nicer grade stocks.

i have a b525 black shadow. a good gun although i had to modify the stock so it lowered the point of impact. i had a browning cynergy before that which is actually a better gun mechanically but at 79 it was just getting a weebit too heavy for me. i have had a beretta in the past but feel the brownings are slightly better. the most important thing is fit.

 

[WillieMl]

There’s no such thing as a “starter gun” (other than in the athletic context). The only difference is cost which largely down to quality of materials and detailing/workmanship All shotguns are as lethal as each other, no matter how much or how little they cost. Remember that and think about it every time you pick your gun up. Drill it into your son too.

A bit like every bike is an adventure bike, if it fits you, your old side by side is fine for clays or live bird shooting. Even if it doesn’t fit you’ll probably adapt your style so it works for you. But be warned if you do change to an over/under or an SBS that fits properly you’ll need to relearn your technique.

Clays are good practice but only get you so far. The variety in speed, direction, height, size, wind, and unpredictability of live birds is their real challenge. A god clay shot hits 80% or better, a very good game shooter can be 30% (hits 1 in 3) or much much lower - 1 in 10 common on one of our drives - exceptionally high and fast.

Live bird shooting harder to break into than claying. You can buy a day’s shooting through sporting agencies but it’s generally expensive, although a duck or pigeon flight costs waaay less than a days driven shooting. Ask at your gun shop about opportunities for buying odd days or a flight or two locally. The best way is to get involved with a local syndicate. Find the pub they go to post-shoot on a Saturday and be genial. Often local farmers and businessmen pooling resources and land to put together a small shoot. They may employ or a keeper or it may be all diy. I was in these diy shoots for years. It’s great fun and can be great company, new friends etc, plus you will learn loads about all aspects of shooting.

What nearly all pheasant, partridge and some duck shoots need are beaters. Best way to get your feet under the table, get your face known, and get involved. You’ll probably get at least a beaters day out of it (where the beaters shoot instead of the usually shooters), and possibly more. After a year or two ask about joining the syndicate when there’s a vacancy.

Good luck. Shooting has been a significant aspect of my whole life. Thanks Dad!!
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Pretty solid overview, especially the part about real game shooting vs clays people often underestimate how big the gap actually is. The advice about getting into a syndicate / starting as a beater is probably the most realistic path in.