newbie with serious problem

[liquidnoise]

Hi all,
I just bought a '98 GS1100, been trying to find excuses to take it out for rides.
But now I am very worries. It stalled on me a couple of times, the balls shrinking thing about it was that I was on highway travelling at about 100ish when it stalled. Natural thing was to clutch in and restart the bike.
Before the highway ride, on city ride it stalled about 5 times.
I am getting very worried as it is very dangerous if there was a car travelling at high spped behind me.
Please HELP! Will most likely bring it to garage this weekend.

 

[richie]

Hi all,
I just bought a '98 GS1100, been trying to find excuses to take it out for rides.
But now I am very worries. It stalled on me a couple of times, the balls shrinking thing about it was that I was on highway travelling at about 100ish when it stalled. Natural thing was to clutch in and restart the bike.
Before the highway ride, on city ride it stalled about 5 times.
I am getting very worried as it is very dangerous if there was a car travelling at high spped behind me.
Please HELP! Will most likely bring it to garage this weekend.

Check your battery connections and the wiring loom from the ignition, great bike it will be fine

 

[liquidnoise]

Check your battery connections and the wiring loom from the ignition, great bike it will be fine

The seller was saying that the ignition may wear over time or the cable may be giving problems.
I tag the cable a little when the bike is on idle. True enough the engine stalled.
Do I have to change new wirings or ignition? There is a housing below the ignition, so I really confused why there is this problem.
I was adviced to glue the housing connection. Can any1 advice?

 

[MickDB1]

Sidestand switch maybe cutting engine
Good luck

 

[oblertone]

If it stalled ...

... when you pulled the ignition wiring you have probably identified the fault. The wiring is cable tied to the frame and eventually will break inside the insulation. The cure is a new section of wiring from a dealer and NOT to cable tie it to the headstock.

One of the few common faults on an otherwise sorted bike

 

[richie]

The seller was saying that the ignition may wear over time or the cable may be giving problems.
I tag the cable a little when the bike is on idle. True enough the engine stalled.
Do I have to change new wirings or ignition? There is a housing below the ignition, so I really confused why there is this problem.
I was adviced to glue the housing connection. Can any1 advice?

about fifty euros over here for the cable, easy job, or try and solder yourself, not so easy as they are all squeezed in...

 

[liquidnoise]

thanks for all the advice!
I also notice that sometimes when i turn on the ignition it didnt work. I must off then on again before all the lights comes on.
The next question is that why did the engine just stalled when i am going on a straight road if as there is nothing tagging or pulling the cables (ie, during a U-turn or turn).

 

[richie]

thanks for all the advice!
I also notice that sometimes when i turn on the ignition it didnt work. I must off then on again before all the lights comes on.
The next question is that why did the engine just stalled when i am going on a straight road if as there is nothing tagging or pulling the cables (ie, during a U-turn or turn).

Fix it first and then see, bump or whatever...

 

[oblertone]

It's always possible ...

... you have two faults; because stalling whilst riding straight sounds like the side stand switch (as mentioned above). Your bike has a 'safety' cut-out switch on the sidestand which may be loose or worn, if you hit a bump it may cause the side stand to swing far enough to activate the switch. There is a fairly simple modification that takes this switch out of play; again, the search function is your friend

 

[liquidnoise]

... you have two faults; because stalling whilst riding straight sounds like the side stand switch (as mentioned above). Your bike has a 'safety' cut-out switch on the sidestand which may be loose or worn, if you hit a bump it may cause the side stand to swing far enough to activate the switch. There is a fairly simple modification that takes this switch out of play; again, the search function is your friend

I think the first thing and the easiest way is to disable the side stand switch. Can I just remove it, ie, disconnect it manually without affecting the electronics? I am guessing it is just a normally open limit switchh or something which cuts the engine.
Will try the search function as i am too anxious to find answers
i did a quick search but cannot really find a thread that shows how to disable the side stand switch

 

[Pykie]

Pretty sure the side stand switch closes to run. That is, if you trace the swirch up to the two way plug, disconnect it and short the two wires together it will run. The plug is up on the frame near the battery, a long way from the sidestand.

The ignition lock barrel wiring is easily replaced. Buy the correct switch assembly (not the whole barrel) from motorworks.

Find a small paint blob (or some thing like that) on the ignition barrel, under that blob is a very small screw. Undo it and the electrical switch will drop off of the bottom of the barrel. Replace it and ride on.

Olly