No Clutch after flywheel replacement

KTM-AL

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I have just replaced the flywheel on my 2002 R1150GS due to warn teeth and noisy starting . The bike is nearly back together, I span the engine over and it sounded like a normal GS so that was good. Then found the clutch leaver solid.
I have checked the clutch slave cylinder and it appears to be at the end of its travel , like the clutch rod is a tad too short. Before ripping the bike in half again , I was wondering if anyone of you had any ideas.
The replacement flywheel was a Motorworks heavy duty one with the wider teeth.
 
I did mine fairly recently with the same one so I know it works fine with that flywheel fitted. Forgive me stating the obvious but are you sure all of the clutch components went in the right way round and how did you centre the friction plate?
 
Thank you for your replies.
I was pretty sure it all went back together correctly, I made a centring tool to align the clutch and friction plate. So if the flywheel is the same as the original it cant need a longer push rod.
We did struggle a bit getting the gearbox ,drive shaft and rear wheel pushed in to the clutch splines , and used some M8 long dowels I made to line the gearbox up.
I will strip it down again as it is partially there now anyway and let you know what was the trouble, hopefully.
 
I see the pushrod should be 270mm std. Looking at the assembly, there doesn't appear to be too much to get wrong/reversed, but I guess shit happens.

When I had this with a pals Honda VFR800 clutch, it was a blockage in the clutch line - the seemingly extended slave piston was just air within the clutch fluid that had compressed between the blockage & the slave. We eventually manged to reverse bleed the system which carried debris back to the clutch master, without popping the slave piston by using a small G-clamp, just so we could see what was happening. The clutch line fluid was so filthy it must have been the 23 y/o original & the previous owner presumably just changed the reservoir fluid for the sake of appearances.
 
Well, when we originally forced the gear box on the clutch thinking the splines were engaged , they wasn't. New clutch plate ordered. I will reinstall it by myself.
 
Well, when we originally forced the gear box on the clutch thinking the splines were engaged , they wasn't. New clutch plate ordered. I will reinstall it by myself.
Slide the gearbox/final drive in on the dowel pins you made. Have it in gear. Have two rear wheel bolts screwed in the final drive opposite each other . When the gearbox butts up against the clutch have a long bar in between the two wheel bolts, waggle the bar back and forth so the gearbox input shaft will be moving, you’ll then feel and hear the unit shaft click into the clutch plate with no force involved… oops, neatly forgot have something under the final drive to raise it up level(ish) and support the wright so making it easy for the final drive/shaft/gearbox to all rotate when you rock the rear wheel bolts, if you get what I mean…… I remember a few years ago I had to go to Yosi’s garage to sort his clutch out after him and Maverick ( both dead now, bless their souls) had done exactly the same as you had.
 
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I didn’t have a problem when I had a new heavy duty clutch in my 1150. I had Mikeyboy do it! :D
I know my limitations.
 
Thanks for that, I like the 2 wheel bolt and bar idea.
I used a bike jack to support the drive shaft with a piece of wood wedged in between the shaft and bevel to firm it up.
Cheers Alec
 
I have just installed my new clutch plate and gearbox, I made an extra dowel pin to aid getting it all lined up, with the 2 wheel bolts in and a bar to turn the gearbox, the spline slid straight in easily, on my own. Clutch disengages fine , so now I can put the rest back on first thing tomorrow before it gets too hot in the garage. Cheers for your tips chaps.
 


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