Hiya technical genius'
I've got a couple of threads over in the Ireland section HERE and HERE. Their both about my surge issue that has returned.
I've recently changed all the fluids and filters and have been noticing that the surge has been returning in the last 500 miles. A member of this site that I know personally was a little concerned that I was getting ready to do valve clearances etc having never done so before. I got loads of great linkys on the threads.
He suggested that I try and eliminate small simple things like dirty sensors etc. I'm just back in after a few hours snooping arround and I have a few questions you might be able to help me with.
When the TPS was hooked up to my multimeter (reading 0.30 at start) I found that when the throttle was blipped fully and released the readings didn't settle down the same each time. I then checked the 'fast idle/choke' lever and found that it seemed to be sticking a little. Put a half can of wd40 down it and still had issues. Kept getting stuck, only to be released when throttle was blipped. Took appart the fast idle swich and found that the cable when waggled and pulled so it was fully free, allowed me to get consistent readings of 0.34. I adjusted the tps so that I got a consistent 0.37. Coundn't get a consistent 0.36
Took the bike for a spin and noticed a small but definate change for the better.
Now, with the 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' mantra in mind here's the questions: First grab yourself a
'cos I might keep you a while
A : Is it possible that the sticking fast idle cable is contributing to the problem?
B : Where is the junction box (is that the name?) located? Do I have to take off the tank to do this? (I plan on doing the fuel filter mod that's well documented on this wonderful site soon anyways)
C : Should I replace this junction box as well as the cable? Is it possible it's just a bit of grit?
D : Should I replace all throttle cables? They suggest that they should be changed after 18,000 miles and I don't know when they were last changed. They are silky smooth though and I don't want to have to break in a new set...
E : When I start replacing cables (hopefully only the fast idle), will I need to do a throttle body sync?
F : This one confuses me the most and I don't know if it's a problem or not. Might be normal but when I fully pull the throttle quickly the cables engage and I can hear the left butterfly wheel snap loudly as it connects with the stopper. The right dosn't get this far and as a result no click. The click isn't important, but does this suggest a problem? When properly balanced, should these butterfly wheels be physically pulled the same distance or is that off set by the brass screw at the back of the thottle body? Hence rendering the small difference immaterial?
G : Is it possible that I moved the brass screw on the right throttle body when I was washing it with autoglym using a paintbrush? I marked it earlier with a thin CD/DVD Marker and moved it 1mm to the right. Seemed to help a little too but I thought this only affected things when the bikes was idling?
H : Is the Manometer made with 25 foot of 1/4 tubing as good as a decent set of guages????
I : I also want to check that the sensors behind the throttle bodies are free of dirt. My air box was filthy and I'm hoping that no crud went into the elbows that feed the throttle bodies and fuel injection system. HOW DO I remove the elbows?
J : I've 6000 miles on the clock since the last valve clearance. they can't be too out of whack can they? I'll leave that possiblity till last folks, if you don't mind because
i think 'cos it sounds tough going.
Please help. Thanks,
FK.
I've got a couple of threads over in the Ireland section HERE and HERE. Their both about my surge issue that has returned.
I've recently changed all the fluids and filters and have been noticing that the surge has been returning in the last 500 miles. A member of this site that I know personally was a little concerned that I was getting ready to do valve clearances etc having never done so before. I got loads of great linkys on the threads.
He suggested that I try and eliminate small simple things like dirty sensors etc. I'm just back in after a few hours snooping arround and I have a few questions you might be able to help me with.
When the TPS was hooked up to my multimeter (reading 0.30 at start) I found that when the throttle was blipped fully and released the readings didn't settle down the same each time. I then checked the 'fast idle/choke' lever and found that it seemed to be sticking a little. Put a half can of wd40 down it and still had issues. Kept getting stuck, only to be released when throttle was blipped. Took appart the fast idle swich and found that the cable when waggled and pulled so it was fully free, allowed me to get consistent readings of 0.34. I adjusted the tps so that I got a consistent 0.37. Coundn't get a consistent 0.36
Took the bike for a spin and noticed a small but definate change for the better.Now, with the 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' mantra in mind here's the questions: First grab yourself a
'cos I might keep you a while A : Is it possible that the sticking fast idle cable is contributing to the problem?
B : Where is the junction box (is that the name?) located? Do I have to take off the tank to do this? (I plan on doing the fuel filter mod that's well documented on this wonderful site soon anyways)
C : Should I replace this junction box as well as the cable? Is it possible it's just a bit of grit?
D : Should I replace all throttle cables? They suggest that they should be changed after 18,000 miles and I don't know when they were last changed. They are silky smooth though and I don't want to have to break in a new set...
E : When I start replacing cables (hopefully only the fast idle), will I need to do a throttle body sync?
F : This one confuses me the most and I don't know if it's a problem or not. Might be normal but when I fully pull the throttle quickly the cables engage and I can hear the left butterfly wheel snap loudly as it connects with the stopper. The right dosn't get this far and as a result no click. The click isn't important, but does this suggest a problem? When properly balanced, should these butterfly wheels be physically pulled the same distance or is that off set by the brass screw at the back of the thottle body? Hence rendering the small difference immaterial?
G : Is it possible that I moved the brass screw on the right throttle body when I was washing it with autoglym using a paintbrush? I marked it earlier with a thin CD/DVD Marker and moved it 1mm to the right. Seemed to help a little too but I thought this only affected things when the bikes was idling?
H : Is the Manometer made with 25 foot of 1/4 tubing as good as a decent set of guages????
I : I also want to check that the sensors behind the throttle bodies are free of dirt. My air box was filthy and I'm hoping that no crud went into the elbows that feed the throttle bodies and fuel injection system. HOW DO I remove the elbows?
J : I've 6000 miles on the clock since the last valve clearance. they can't be too out of whack can they? I'll leave that possiblity till last folks, if you don't mind because
i think 'cos it sounds tough going.Please help. Thanks,
FK.
Cheers for the support. Remember that small ones are juicer folks
