North & South Uist

...and nip over to Skye for more great scenery..and yes, these are my photos



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One of my favourite places is down the dead end road heading to Staffin Harbour. :thumb2

Like I said, I’ve done Harris and Lewis numerous times and love it over there. Used to stay at the small campsite at Shawbost. It used to be run by a nice old chap who weaved the infamous Tweed in a shed there. His sister had a house on site and did peoples washing whilst on site. Great memories. I’m actually looking for a small Croft or a plot of land on Harris. Somewhere to escape to when I retire. May even have a look at North & South Uist too.
 
Indeed..

I've made some poor decisions in my time but not many as poor as taking the high trail to the right on the saddle that day, fucking shit myself trying to get back down again.

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I'm planning Outer Hebrides island hopping trip in early May. I'm taking ferry from Oban to Castlebay and then riding from Vatersay up to Butt of Lewis and staying in hostels/camping. Then ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool on the way back. Giving myself 9 days for this including motorway blast from/to Southampton.

This will be my first time to Western Isles so I'm looking forward to not just ride but to see some places there.

Are there any easy gravel tracks so I can wander a little off tarmac and not upset locals too? I know there is one behind the Bridge to Nowhere on Isle of Lewis but would be grateful for any other suggestions.

I have done your trip a couple of times. Check out Gatliff Trust for cheap basic hostels. There’s another hostel type place worth considering at North Glendale. I can’t remember it’s name but a minute or two googling should find it.

There’s a maze of tracks on the west side of South Uist between the Machair and the beach. Start near the golf club. Get a 1:50000 OS map. Warning.....some are very sandy. Some also go through MoD danger areas. I had my Varadero stuck for what seemed like ages in deep soft sand before I managed to ride it out. I don’t know their legal status though. Just ride them gently and try not to scare livestock. No one bothered me on the little bits I did.

Write ups and some pics from both trips

https://www.xrv.org.uk/forums/search.php?searchid=1216874#/topics/77847

https://www.bigtrailie.co.uk/index.php?threads/outer-hebrides-adv-scotland-rally.1961/#post-20841
 
If you want to draw attention to yourself, ride up to the MOD base up on the hill on South Uist and wander up to the gates and look around, you won't be surprised how quickly someone will appear asking questions.

DAMHIK ;)
 
If you want to draw attention to yourself, ride up to the MOD base up on the hill on South Uist and wander up to the gates and look around, you won't be surprised how quickly someone will appear asking questions.

To be honest I could pop in for a cuppa to QinetiQ guys there (hint: look at the nickname) ;)

I have done your trip a couple of times. Check out Gatliff Trust for cheap basic hostels. There’s another hostel type place worth considering at North Glendale. I can’t remember it’s name but a minute or two googling should find it.

There’s a maze of tracks on the west side of South Uist between the Machair and the beach. Start near the golf club. Get a 1:50000 OS map. Warning.....some are very sandy. Some also go through MoD danger areas. I had my Varadero stuck for what seemed like ages in deep soft sand before I managed to ride it out. I don’t know their legal status though. Just ride them gently and try not to scare livestock. No one bothered me on the little bits I did.

Write ups and some pics from both trips

https://www.xrv.org.uk/forums/search.php?searchid=1216874#/topics/77847

https://www.bigtrailie.co.uk/index.php?threads/outer-hebrides-adv-scotland-rally.1961/#post-20841

Hi Austin,

Many thanks for info and links (although second one is not working but I found it by myself :thumb). I have already considered staying in two Gatliff hostels: one in Howmore and the second one in Rushgarry on Berneray.

I didn't know that the access to the South Uist MOD Range is fairly unrestricted. So who knows maybe I will wander a bit there ;)

Being honest I'm in two minds considering swapping my return ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool for Tarbert to Uig (Calmac Hopscotch 23). I have done Scottish Highlands NC500 in the past and been to Ullapool too but never been onto the Skye and that's tempting.

Is approx. 150 miles daily on the Hebs doable taking into account stopping for photos, coffee/tea, pee etc? I prefer to enjoy this trip rather than rush and just tick this destination off the list.
 
Last time I was there that was the way I returned and had a couple of days on Skye myself then took the Armadale ferry to Mallaig.
 
I'm trying to think where you'll find 150 miles to do.
 
I'm trying to think where you'll find 150 miles to do.

Haha...I had that thought myself but choose to overlook it.

Radarman, it's not about mileage there it's about the roads. The road to and from Hushinish from the main road will take you at least an hour each way, the Golden road again will take at least the same and these are not places you just go to and come back straight away.
 
If you can, come back over from Skye on the Kylerhea-Glenelg ferry and have a tour around Glenelg and Arnisdale. Then pop over Mam Ratagan into Shiel. Well worth it.

To be honest you are better spending your time on Harris....Luskentyre, Golden Road etc once you've hasd the obligatory belt up South and North Uist to Berneray.

I have stayed in the Howmore Hostel....a few years ago now...its quite basic but perfectly OK, and in a nice spot for a donder along to the Howmore estuary after supper.....might even see a sea trout in the Howmore River!
 
Haha...I had that thought myself but choose to overlook it.

Radarman, it's not about mileage there it's about the roads. The road to and from Hushinish from the main road will take you at least an hour each way, the Golden road again will take at least the same and these are not places you just go to and come back straight away.

Guys, you do underestimate my planning skills :D. You could easily do 150miles even on the Hebrides (see below). And fully agree Cabby mileage will not tell everything hence my question above. Therefore is that doable in time frame calculated by ITN Converter?
 

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I personally would be spending far more time discovering Harris than I would be S Uist. As GW says, Luskentyre beach, Hushinish, Golden Rd etc. See you have the Callanaish stones down, go see the main one, forget about the other two. Lewis on the whole is quite baron particularly up the very north so time can be spent checking out the beeches around Kneep. Is it doable ? depends your time frame on the isles.
 
I personally would be spending far more time discovering Harris than I would be S Uist.

This is just a planning and some waypoints are optional and ultimately might be removed/omitted. I heard that Uists are less interesting than Lewis and Harris.


As GW says, Luskentyre beach, Hushinish, Golden Rd etc.

All this is included in my Day 5 route (see below):


See you have the Callanaish stones down, go see the main one, forget about the other two. Lewis on the whole is quite baron particularly up the very north so time can be spent checking out the beeches around Kneep. Is it doable ? depends your time frame on the isles.

Fair enough if they look similar I can see only main site stones. If I skip Kneep and Reef on Day 6 then I save another 6 miles or so but still need to go to Mangersta as planning to stay overnight there in that bothy.

Anyway, thanks for all hints :-)
 

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Radarman, you are in danger of overthinking this. Book your ferries to and from the islands, and your overnight Accomodation if you must (you can’t (or couldn’t) book Gatliff Trust). Then just go and ride around to your hearts content, stop when you want, look at what takes your interest when you get there. If a dead end road looks interesting go down it. It doesn’t matter if you think it was a waste of time and miles really does it? Chat to locals and other tourists and they will probably send you to the best bits. The inter-island ferries will usually fit a bike on so don’t get hung up on booking a sailing (same really for all the ferries. I have only been turned away once on an unbooked ferry but it was a group of 6 and it was about 5mins before departure to Islay).
 
Number 13, Hushinish wild camp, you can have my spot.


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Huisnis is a fine place to base yourself if you want to tour around Harris and Lewis. A fair way out of Tarbert but fabulous views and there's a newly built facility with toilets, showers and a lounge with a panoramic window overlooking where Cabby is camped here. From there, you can easily do Lewis in a day and then explore the rest of Harris. The distances are not great and, if it's the late spring / summer, you have a lot of daylight to play with!

Getting there. I'd head for the wee ferry at Glenelg via Ratagan and then up to Uig via the Quiraing then back again. Or head south from Harris down to Barra and back via Oban. If you book your ferry places, you can change your bookings easily by calling CalMac's call centre. Saying that, there is usually room for a bike on all but the busiest days in the high season! If you book and think you're going to miss a ferry just get on the blower, change the booking and wild camp or look for a BnB or hostel. This is the Hebrides remember: the word mañana represents far too much of a sense of urgency for these folks! As Austin say, just go!
 
You need to watch these days re the ferries and booking Peter...I know that what you say used to be the case but they are far less relaxed about it nowadays than they were.
 


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