Note to self

PW Cymru

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Never try riding a R100RS with the steering damper set to "0" position. :eek:

Having fitted the new discs and hoses, I thought I'd take the bike for a run to bed the pads in and check out the brakes.

Made sure the tyre pressure was ok before setting off at a slow pace, took one hand off the bars and the head shook momentarily. Stopped at the lights then pulled away to about 25mph and holly shit batman the bars shook like Selam Hayak's hips in Dusk till Dawn.

Frightened the crap out of me.

Managed to pull over and realised that the damper was in the "0" position so set it to "2" and all was well again.

I knew the front end was a bit sensative but didn't realise it was that bloody sensative.

Anyway brake shudder now cured and the brakes work fairly well for a 27 year old bike.
 
It's a highly strung thoroughbred perched on the knife-edge between nirvana and self destruction or your wheel bearings are fecked :D

I've never noticed much difference between the damper settings.
 
I think it was definately the damper that fixed it but it could have masked a f*^ked bearing.

Took it up to 80 on the dual carriageway (indicated thats is, probably just 70 officer) and it felt fine.

Is there a tried and trusted way to check the bearings, I take it these are the ones set with the variable cones.
 
If your tyre pressures are even slightly down they shake their heads like a Russel with a rat..
My 90s and 100 cs are on setting 1 normally, setting 2 when fully loaded and motoring on :augie

On setting 0 even a white line can cause a large amount of sphinter splutter :eek
 
Took her out for a spin today after checking tyre pressures and steering damper, it will still nod its head at low speed if you take a hand off but feels pretty solid at speed.

Tried the damper on setting 1 but wasn't happy with that so set it on 2.

Looking forward to the WEEEE now

Its not perect but its reasonable to look at

Here's some pics of sunny Cardiff in the background
 

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Mine is always set on 0, never had any trouble over 28 years' ownership. Actually I'm rather glad not to need damping, it's less tiring to ride slowly in queues. I also had an RT before that for a couple of years, no problems with that either. However, a friend of mine had the crap scared out of him several times on his RS. I'm 15 stones and he was umm... 10 stones, I don't know if that's what made the difference. He insisted that the steering damper setting made little difference.

Anyway, although he sold it before he cured the problem, he eventually found that the steering head bearing adjustment was crucial. If I remember correctly, it wasn't a simple matter of applying the correct torque, there was an element of black art about it, i.e. set the bearings so that the steering would flop over (with the bike on the centre stand) and then tighten the adjustment by another flat (or half a flat or even two, I honestly can't remember) on the adjusting nut. All a long time ago, and poor old Dafydd has long passed away, I can't ask him now.

PS Paul: "Its not perfect but its reasonable to look at" damn right it is, it looks very good in the pictures I've seen of it, I wish mine looked as good.
 
Damper!

Have been through this with many RS's. STEERING HEAD BEARINGS are either out of adjustment or cream crackered. You should not need the damper unless two up with a load or on poor roads. Fix the problem, don't mask it with the damper. Also, the fork brace does absoloutely nothing apart from add some weight.
Cheers
Eng
:D
 
I'm going to try changing the front tyre first as it appears to be well worn.

If that doesn't work then it looks like head bearings.
 
I'm going to try changing the front tyre first as it appears to be well worn.

If that doesn't work then it looks like head bearings.

Paul,

I've got all the gear for setting the torque correctly so any chance you could throw the front wheel in your car when you come round on Friday? We can check the front wheel bearings while you are here. I've got a couple of spares if needed.
 


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