Now I can't remove the starter motor . . .

[Boxerboy55]

Piece of cake according to the Haynes manual.
After a few preliminaries you just "Unscrew the starter motor bolts. Ease the starter motor out to the rear".
A task almost impossible it seems. Access with a Torx35 is Very Difficult.

It took me hours to remove screws. I found the second one was only 20mm not 40mm so I reckoned that was the wrong one.
Put it back and with extremely difficult access I removed another one. Only 20mm again and the motor isn't moving.

The picture in the Haynes manual suggests the 2 mounting screws are staring you in the face, but in the real world, one isn't.

With very poor access and poor visibility of the mount, using assorted tools, I'm honestly stuck till I go fight another day.

Has anyone ever removed a starter motor? What am I missing? Must be the hardest - simple - job I've ever met.

ps - I do have a comprehensive tool kit and know how to use it, but my aged bones are past their best when it comes to lying on the garage floor.

 

[Pukmeister]

The motor sits on a spigot, it probably needs a whack with a soft hammer to crack it free as it probably corrodes in place a little.

When I had my starting problems with my 1250GSA I bought a spare starter motor as a precaution but never got around to fitting it. After changing the starter relay and the battery all was fine so I didn't need to.

 

[squibb34]

I know it's a GS wet head, but the location is similar to your RS .........

 

[Boxerboy55]

The motor sits on a spigot, it probably needs a whack with a soft hammer to crack it free as it probably corrodes in place a little.

When I had my starting problems with my 1250GSA I bought a spare starter motor as a precaution but never got around to fitting it. After changing the starter relay and the battery all was fine so I didn't need to.

I'm considering a new battery and solenoid just for good measure.

Coming up 11 years old and a ferry booked I must try to guarantee reliability.

Plus both the red rocker switches are very notchy. I've had one or both out over the years to file the rocker switch. The hidden electric buttons seem secure.
The plastic rockers literally wear out.
No wonder considering the number of times they get pressed.

The clutch micro switch has been renewed. Quite a nuisance when I lost it.

 

[Pukmeister]

If your budget allows it, I can strongly recommend the Motobatt Hybrid battery for a 1200/1250 liquid cooled. It has transformed the way my bike starts and made it reliable again.

 

[Boxerboy55]

One of the most awkward jobs ever.

Poor visibility and access to the 2 mounting bolts.

I hope installing a new one will be a bit easier.

 

[Boxerboy55]

The motor sits on a spigot, it probably needs a whack with a soft hammer to crack it free as it probably corrodes in place a little.

When I had my starting problems with my 1250GSA I bought a spare starter motor as a precaution but never got around to fitting it. After changing the starter relay and the battery all was fine so I didn't need to.

The motor fell out no problem.

I’m swithering about the relay. It sounded ok when I pushed the start button several times before removing the battery (starter cable disconnected).

I’m seriously considering the Big Battery purely as a precaution as my breakdown rescue man told the the original battery is OK. I’ll sleep easier on my April holiday if I replace the lot, including the 2 rocker switch buttons that are quite notchy with old age. A bit like me.

I have removed the rocker buttons in the past and filed some roughness. They do get used a lot.

 

[Pukmeister]

I only changed my starter relay as a precaution, I doubt the old one was faulty. My battery was allegedly fine as the bike was 8 months from approved used.

I didn’t bother moaning to Bahnstormer about it, batteries are usually deemed a consumable item like brakes and tyres. After I got a jump start from the recovery guy it wouldn’t repeat its misbehaving but I just swapped out the OE battery for the Hybrid anyway. You could instantly tell the difference!

Have you removed the starter just to inspect the insulator seal on the main cable terminal ?

 

[Boxerboy55]

I only changed my starter relay as a precaution, I doubt the old one was faulty. My battery was allegedly fine as the bike was 8 months from approved used.

I didn’t bother moaning to Bahnstormer about it, batteries are usually deemed a consumable item like brakes and tyres. After I got a jump start from the recovery guy it wouldn’t repeat its misbehaving but I just swapped out the OE battery for the Hybrid anyway. You could instantly tell the difference!

Have you removed the starter just to inspect the insulator seal on the main cable terminal ?

I pulled the motor out as it could be the culprit of my non-start. Hard to test.

The non-start moment involved a few clicks and sounded just like a flat battery, but the battery was not flat.

I’ve got more trust in the battery, but it’ll get replaced.

But maybe it was the relay. Maybe the Go button. Maybe a dirty connection.

With 56K on the clock I’m just hoping that renewing the key elementswill let me sleep easy and regain some faith in my Trusty Steed

 

[Pukmeister]

That’s the exact symptoms that I had. Original BMW battery supposedly okay, stopped to refuel after ten miles, ignition on, chug chug bluuurgh.

I’ve heard tales of the decompressor sticking on the LH cylinder due to valve clearances and other stuff besides, don’t know if any of that is true but I do know the extra grunt from my hybrid battery laughs at the starter load now, the bike happily bursts into life.

When I tested my old OE battery with my battery drop test unit set to cranking test, the voltage was dropping to below 9 volts during cranking. The new hybrid battery stays above 13 when cranking.

 

[Boxerboy55]

MotorWorks boxes landed this afternoon. If this doesn't cure my intermittent Non-Start event nothing will.

I'm hoping that Big Boy will pop in tomorrow and try to fit the starter motor in less time than it took me to remove the original

 

[Boxerboy55]

I was worried when I saw the differences between the OEM motor and the MotorWorks non-BMW motor. Overall length. Lug thickness. Length of drive shaft (loads of room inside the bike flywheel area).

The part number reference had led me to believe it was the one. A chat with helpful MotorWorks chap suggested that "it should fit, 'cos we've sold a few".

And it did fit. Took less time to fit than remove, but the job is still Fuckin' Difficult.

With hindsight I may revisit it and look if I need a shim washer on the shorter mounting lugs to avoid any stress.

The the new supper horsepower battery the bike sprung into life immediately - with a new whining sound.

Stop / started several time so things look good. Roll on March for new Road Tax.

Just got 2 rocker switch buttons to fit now.

 

[RS-eyJohn]

I only changed my starter relay as a precaution, I doubt the old one was faulty. My battery was allegedly fine as the bike was 8 months from approved used.

I didn’t bother moaning to Bahnstormer about it, batteries are usually deemed a consumable item like brakes and tyres. After I got a jump start from the recovery guy it wouldn’t repeat its misbehaving but I just swapped out the OE battery for the Hybrid anyway. You could instantly tell the difference!

Have you removed the starter just to inspect the insulator seal on the main cable terminal ?

I found that the insulation on my starter motor (2019 RS) was weak spot. Fitted at factory with a single o-ring it was suspect - appeared to be able to short to the case - so I wrapped it in 2 layers of heat-shrink. Problem Gone!

 

[Pukmeister]

I read somewhere that fitting a fibre washer as an insulator helped, but can’t recall where I read the article.

 

[RS-eyJohn]

I read somewhere that fitting a fibre washer as an insulator helped, but can’t recall where I read the article.

A plastic washer and insulator are fitted at factory under the first (lower) nut, where the positive lead attaches. This works OK, however the potential short is around the 'power pole' as it passes through the cast aluminum starter body. That is where I added insulation, and replaced the small O-ring. Should have taken pictures but was too busy figuring out how best to sheath the 4 carbon brushes to re-asssemble the unit. Used thin stiff plastic sheet from a cake box, and Bob's your Uncle!

Good luck

 

[jetjock]

MotorWorks boxes landed this afternoon. If this doesn't cure my intermittent Non-Start event nothing will.

I'm hoping that Big Boy will pop in tomorrow and try to fit the starter motor in less time than it took me to remove the original


View attachment 481398

I had the same issue on my 1250RS . It turned out to be a battery issue in the end

 

[RS-eyJohn]

MotorWorks boxes landed this afternoon. If this doesn't cure my intermittent Non-Start event nothing will.

I'm hoping that Big Boy will pop in tomorrow and try to fit the starter motor in less time than it took me to remove the original


View attachment 481398

After cleaning all the heavy current connections and changing the starter relay I have also got fed up with gradually drooping battery volts (Yuasa H-series) , and bought the Hybrid jobbie which will be fitted this week.

 

[RS-eyJohn]

Wow! The hybrid battery packs a big starting current punch, and easily handles repeat starts.
It will be a week or two before I’m comfortable leaving the lithium starter booster at home, but I am sold on this combination battery.

Interestingly when registering the warranty with importer Hendler UK there were snags however a phone call 01405 480000 fixed that so 2 year warranty it is.