Obvious noob is obvious (specific R1100GS questions)

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Splat

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Hi all,

So I bought the 1995 R1100GS with 56.000km last week.
Have not ridden it yet, because I'm waiting for my license plate :mad:

Anyway, this has given me some time to clean it thoroughly and think about taking care of it.
I've go a few specific questions, I tried to search some of them but couldn't come up with an answer.

* How to change engine oil? (where's the oil filter and drain plug? do's and don'ts)
* How to change shaft drive oil? (the bike has been standing still almost a year when I bought it).
* Brake fluid : can I change it with simply a hose and the sqeeze lever technique? (I've never done that)

There are two things that worry me:

1) the area of the engine block right behind the right hand cilinder is yellow, with ugly stains on it.
Is this normal because of heating, or has there been a problem in the past.(I see that the cilinder head gasket has been changed at 32.000km!!!)

2) What's the deal with the gearboxes of model years '95 and '96? Am I riding on borrowed time?

Thanks for answers or links.

Cheers ;-)
 
Splat said:
Hi all,

So I bought the 1995 R1100GS with 56.000km last week.
Have not ridden it yet, because I'm waiting for my license plate :mad:

Anyway, this has given me some time to clean it thoroughly and think about taking care of it.
I've go a few specific questions, I tried to search some of them but couldn't come up with an answer.

* How to change engine oil? (where's the oil filter and drain plug? do's and don'ts)
* How to change shaft drive oil? (the bike has been standing still almost a year when I bought it).
* Brake fluid : can I change it with simply a hose and the sqeeze lever technique? (I've never done that)

There are two things that worry me:

1) the area of the engine block right behind the right hand cilinder is yellow, with ugly stains on it.
Is this normal because of heating, or has there been a problem in the past.(I see that the cilinder head gasket has been changed at 32.000km!!!)

2) What's the deal with the gearboxes of model years '95 and '96? Am I riding on borrowed time?

Thanks for answers or links.

Cheers ;-)
Click to expand...

ok well a workshop manual is a good place to start, then use this when you have a look underenath engine and see where the filter housing is located...and the various drai/ plugs!
also
stains between engine and gearbox housing could mean that the clutch is on the way out due to failing oil seals between gearbox and shaft or engine and clutch, the spinning clutch throws the oil against the walls of the housing and it finds it way thru:blast sure enough when riding the clutch slips!

earlier gearboxes were made of inferioir grade of chocolate and are known for their ability to fail to work

good luck
 
Dude, the oil drain and filter are under the sump plate. There's no oil in the shaft just the gear box and fianal drive which both use GL5 oil. both the gear box and final drive have drain and fill plugs, simple enough. All the plugs use crush washers so you will need them also.

Cheers, Ian:D
 
Hi and welcome,

*The drain plug and filter (metal canister, screw on type) are underneath on the sump. You will proberbly need to remover the bashplate.
*The shaft drive (the final drive box) oil has a drain plug at the bottom and the filler plug on the side. You need a GL5 spec gear oil.
*Dont forget the gear box oil as well!

As you are looking at doing maintenance yourself, I would invest in a workshop manual (The Haynes one is ok, or someone will hopefully post a link to the free download that is available). You will proberbly want to balance the throttle bodies, do the valves/endfloat etc as well).

The stains sound like where the petrol has leaked from the fuel pipes when the tank has been removed, quite common.

If your gearbox is still good, then I assume it is past the worst, but I am know expert, Im sure someone will be along to give more advice.
 
If you're never going 'off road' then get rid of the sump protection completely. its pointless. makes engine oil changes so much simpler too.
 
I'm looking for the workshop manual on the net, but can't find it.

I think doing valve adjustment myself is beyond my abilities.

I sure hope my gearbox is not on the way out...
 
Splat said:
I'm looking for the workshop manual on the net, but can't find it.

I think doing valve adjustment myself is beyond my abilities.

I sure hope my gearbox is not on the way out...
Click to expand...

Bite the bullett and phone your local freindly BMW dealer, or phone Motor works at the top of the page and BUY a manual.
 
My 'friendly' BMW dealer only likes executives that buy the latest and greatest models, with lot's of options and that bring their bikes to him for servicing.

So, I've quickly read through the manual available on the website posted above, and changing the final drive and gearbox oil is just a matter of draining it, filling it up to the brim and replacing the seals? That shouldn't be too difficult :-)

Are these drain plugs magnetic?
 
What seals?

There are washers.

My drain plugs are not magnetic but that doesn't mean someone hasn't fitted them to your bike at some point.

Replacing all of the oils takes 30 minutes max. That includes putting the tools away afterwards. Actually, make that 1 hour. A 30 minute ride is required to get the oils to the right temperature for draining. At least that's what I tell my wife :augie

Make sure the oil seal for the oil filter comes out. Mine has a habit of getting stuck and the new filter and seal will still fit in place but you'll have a small leak.

This is simple stuff and you cannot get it too wrong.

Buying a manual is the better method. Over time you will get to know the important pages by counting the number of oily finger prints on the page.

Regards

Rob C
 
I 'll keep the bash trays on the bottom

But good point - taking them off is a pain so I think a bit of time with a hole cutter may be on the horizon.
 
They are a pain especially if you have the crappy crash bars necessitate a fuel tank removal.
I always get my fingers jammed refitting my crash bars under the bash plate. A pain indeed.

Regards

Rob C
 
Yellow staining on the right hand of the gearbox behind the right cylinder is probably a result of a leaking fuel line which runs above there behind the plastic cover.

You will need a special tool for removing the oil filter, readily available in the UK from car accessory shops. Buy your new filter and take it to the shop to get the correct size, it's like a thin walled socket.

The only seals are the square section rubber/plastic item on the filter and the crush washers on the plugs. These look like aluminium washers.
 
Splat said:
My 'friendly' BMW dealer only likes executives that buy the latest and greatest models, with lot's of options and that bring their bikes to him for servicing.

So, I've quickly read through the manual available on the website posted above, and changing the final drive and gearbox oil is just a matter of draining it, filling it up to the brim and replacing the seals? That shouldn't be too difficult :-)

Are these drain plugs magnetic?
Click to expand...

Engine oil is easy enough, gearbox has no magnetic plug as standard and you fill to the fill hole when level. Bevel box has a magnetic drain plug and you fill to the BOTTOM of the fill hole threads when level on the centre stand.

Fill engine to the centre of the red dot on the window. Don't overfill the bevel box as it only exits via the breather when you go for a big ride. Take it out for a ride before you drain and the oils will be thinner and drain better. Also check the old oil for any obvious metla particles.

Stain is definitely petrol as mentioned.
 
thanks for the tips and the great advice, everybody.

:thumb2

:topic
I still don't have my license plate....... I WANT TO RIDE!


FFS ?????
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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